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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

Stage 3
Not to bum rush an answer to your question, but I think I know what you are getting at. I wouldn't jack it up from the center anymore after that surgery.
thanks. i have been thinking about doing that but always wondered what guys r doing when jacking up there car after the surgery...i currently have a modified stage 3 pan on my car and had to trim the inner lip to get it on, but i also had to grind the jack cup to fit in between the pan/K member so it wouldnt slip off at height..
 
thanks. i have been thinking about doing that but always wondered what guys r doing when jacking up there car after the surgery...i currently have a modified stage 3 pan on my car and had to trim the inner lip to get it on, but i also had to grind the jack cup to fit in between the pan/K member so it wouldnt slip off at height..
Some kind of bridge connected to the cup and somehow mating with either the lCA or the longitudes would probably work
 
There are a few areas within this desert that warrant attention. I'll explain in a short while as I get windows of time over the weekend. Feel free to ask questions.

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lost appx 50lbs by changing shifters, center console, and seats. red button activates the rpm air sequence. havent weighed the car yet so dont know total weight.

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Here's the final math.
If this were to have been a full aluminized steel exhaust stretching out to the rear bumper with tail pipes and all, it would have been conservatively weighing closer to 88-95 lbs installed, so in this case and in theory, 45 to 55 lbs would have been discarded by going aluminum. Basically a 51% weight drop.
With this project first being a steel midway system at 58 Lbs, in actuality, 36 lbs were discarded when going aluminum. Basically a 62% weight drop.

But WEIGHT! there's more.
Measuring at 3-1/2" then reducing to 3" as a midway, I can just imagine what the final weight would have been if it was a typically sized 3" pipe system reducing down to 2-1/2" as a midway. Probably just under 17 Lbs.

It must be stressed that the ability for headers to rid heat more efficiently than factory iron exhaust manifolds is a determining factor behind this. Temperatures vary from car to car, but the temps at a factory manifold flange where it meets the pipes could be much higher than a header collector where it meets the pipes. This is usually because the factory iron exhaust manifolds are shorter and closer to the engine exhaust ports where exhaust flame temperatures are obviously higher and more intense. It could be assumed that high heat tubings such as 321 stainless could work with an iron manifold to help transition exhausts to cooler climates further down pipe, but again it all has to be tested and verified to factor which material-either steel, stainless or aluminum- could-would-should make the cut. Exhaust noise is a whole other field.
The temps on these particular collectors were not high enough to make aluminum soup and the lighter alloy was supposedly able to tone down the exhaust note, so it got drafted in.

The benefits on this project were cooler pipe temps, no rust nor oxidation issues and surprisingly a quieter exhaust note.
It had to be tucked tight and high with snugged clamping to not allow vibration which is any hanging systems nemesis, especially aluminum.

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Looks like I’ve got a new project. Exhaust weight reduction on the Dart. If I recall correctly, when I built this, from collectors to mufflers was about 62 lbs, and tail pipes with bullets another 46 lbs. yeah 108 lbs. some pics.

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Total weight with exhaust and 15 gallons fuel was 3310 Lbs. I obviously wasn’t too worried about weight when I did this.

This is a terrific thread that I’ve been covering very closely, numerous areas that I can improve upon on the 64.
 
Looks like I’ve got a new project. Exhaust weight reduction on the Dart. If I recall correctly, when I built this, from collectors to mufflers was about 62 lbs, and tail pipes with bullets another 46 lbs. yeah 108 lbs. some pics.

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Total weight with exhaust and 15 gallons fuel was 3310 Lbs. I obviously wasn’t too worried about weight when I did this.

This is a terrific thread that I’ve been covering very closely, numerous areas that I can improve upon on the 64.
Cheeses Christ, what are these exhaust pipes made out of these days? Are they lead? LOL.
That there looks to me to be a 4" ID pipe and that's a lot of real estate.
 
Cheeses Christ, what are these exhaust pipes made out of these days? Are they lead? LOL.
That there looks to me to be a 4" ID pipe and that's a lot of real estate.
Ummm yeah. 18 gauge 4”. Overkill. Pump gas car, the softballs kill the linger that seems to last for days after running. Loving what you did with aluminum. Thinking.
 
So here's a bump back to a recent image of the deck lid and a minuscule amount of weight reduced from just the four mounting bolts and washers.
Four stockers weighed 3.40 oz.
Four 2024-T aluminum bolts weighed 1.60 oz.
Here was the removal of 1.80 ounces high on the car as part of the sickening goal of removing 1600 ounces that is equivalent to a 100 Lbs.
It could be argued that 100 Lbs could be removed from any setup whether it be old school or modern just on the cutting down of fastener sizes or replacements with lighter alloys.

There is one other factor that led to this madness besides wishing for a real factory lightweight car for Christmas, and it was a certain blazingly quick and quiet street killer from back in the early '80's. This guy, who's name was Billy, (I used to call him Billy The Kid) would trek to Brooklyn or Staten Island from Yonkers with what was probably one of the first F.A.S.T type cars around. It was a '68-'69 notchback Cuda' with a 440 running stock HP exhaust manifolds along with a mild sounding cam. It could've been a stroked and poked 4??? for all I knew, but I bet my bottom dollar that this thing was way below its jurisdictional factory weight.
He would smile when ever I grilled him on the weight. He knew that I was a circling shark and could sniff his blood type.

**** retentive is the sickness, but the relief is the quickness.

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Ummm yeah. 18 gauge 4”. Overkill. Pump gas car, the softballs kill the linger that seems to last for days after running. Loving what you did with aluminum. Thinking.
I bet a conspiring partner in the weight surplus of your system by what I see are the various connection points within the run of the pipes. They are minuscule compared to the overall 4"pipes and mufflers, but the multiple connection point flanges and or V-band clamps, fasteners, gaskets, hangers start to add up.
All things aside, it's super cool, smart and beautiful to have a multi-sectional system like yours that can be dismantled or down sized with ease. I'm sure the power that thing makes, more then makes up for the weight it is carrying.
 
I bet a conspiring partner in the weight surplus of your system by what I see are the various connection points within the run of the pipes. They are minuscule compared to the overall 4"pipes and mufflers, but the multiple connection point flanges and or V-band clamps, fasteners, gaskets, hangers start to add up.
All things aside, it's super cool, smart and beautiful to have a multi-sectional system like yours that can be dismantled or down sized with ease. I'm sure the power that thing makes, more then makes up for the weight it is carrying.
Right on all of the above. To start with I had a 3” system exiting ahead of the rear tires.
Before the car was fired up a friend shared his 4” system that he had on his L023 car and here we are. He said he used to run the exhaust side exiting ahead of the rear tire but the drumming noise in his ear got annoying. I had considered dumping the exhaust behind the mufflers but ended up going the full distance. My pal told me that with his 4” system and 2 mufflers most alarms would set off, with 4 mufflers only some. On the good side of things the KB alloy up front makes up for it on the scale.
 
Right on all of the above. To start with I had a 3” system exiting ahead of the rear tires.
Before the car was fired up a friend shared his 4” system that he had on his L023 car and here we are. He said he used to run the exhaust side exiting ahead of the rear tire but the drumming noise in his ear got annoying. I had considered dumping the exhaust behind the mufflers but ended up going the full distance. My pal told me that with his 4” system and 2 mufflers most alarms would set off, with 4 mufflers only some. On the good side of things the KB alloy up front makes up for it on the scale.
Yes, these exhaust systems are alarm triggers. In some cases it's like setting off 5 alarm calls. LOL.
Yes and yes, that KB up front makes up for the LB's outback. I would assume that it cuts 80 Lbs or more from the front end.
I had trouble getting a KB during their in-house transition debacle and just ended up with Iron man.
 
By the way, both your '64 and '68's are awesome pieces of art, especially that '64. The recent hood scoop edition came out superfly. Please excuse my favoritism towards the early B's. LOL.
 
By the way, both your '64 and '68's are awesome pieces of art, especially that '64. The recent hood scoop edition came out superfly. Please excuse my favoritism towards the early B's. LOL.
Thanks for the kind words. The 64 is my pride and joy. This off season I’ve been trimming weight off of it, so far just up front. This post has me venturing now into the mid section while I wait for my block to come back from my Bud’s machine shop.
I had my Procor Rally 1000 seats out and those tipped the scale at 30 lbs a piece with the slider assemblies. Theres a number of things your post has me zeroing in on now.
 
Yes, these exhaust systems are alarm triggers. In some cases it's like setting off 5 alarm calls. LOL.
Yes and yes, that KB up front makes up for the LB's outback. I would assume that it cuts 80 Lbs or more from the front end.
I had trouble getting a KB during their in-house transition debacle and just ended up with Iron man.
I’d like to have an aftermarket block in the 64. That was the plan once I found my main web cracked, until a buddy brought a 440 block over. It made sense to go with it
I think that alloy block is probly a 100 lbs less. I always hear that my hemi should be in the 64. It’s 150 hp more to boot. I did take time to clean up the K frame on the Dart. Got a few lbs off of it.
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I’d like to have an aftermarket block in the 64. That was the plan once I found my main web cracked, until a buddy brought a 440 block over. It made sense to go with it
I think that alloy block is probly a 100 lbs less. I always hear that my hemi should be in the 64. It’s 150 hp more to boot. I did take time to clean up the K frame on the Dart. Got a few lbs off of it.
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Dirt, grime and even tire burn out residue can add a few.
Those seats are a hair heavy but not as much as some others.

I've been fabrication a quick disconnect head rest that sits and bolts on the cross bar and halo top bar for competition, but can remove it for street use while keeping the A-100 seats. I think DVW who also has A-100 seats has a headrest IIRC. His seats are super light. Those Procor-rally 1000 seats may be safer and more comfy though. Think it thoroughly through though.
 
Low hanging fruit as they say for the easiest of tasks. The tanks are literally low hanging and hidden for the most part, so why not lighten it? Well there's more to it depending on the fuel system at hand.
There's a few things going on with this tank as compared to the stock type, but not as you would think as far as weight reduction

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Low hanging fruit as they say for the easiest of tasks. The tanks are literally low hanging and hidden for the most part, so why not lighten it? Well there's more to it depending on the fuel system at hand.
There's a few things going on with this tank as compared to the stock type, but not as you would think as far as weight reduction

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So with this tank made entirely out of aluminum by The Hot Rod Shop out west, it would have been lighter than the stock steel tank if it weren't for the various baffles, dams and return line reservoirs inside. Most notably is the in-tank Aeromotive 1000 fuel pump that adds a few pounds to the mixture.

The empty stock steel 18 gallon capacity tank weighs 20 Lbs exact.

This aluminum tank with the sending unit and all weighs quite a bit more, but then again. it's low hanging fruit in that it is low and rearward in the car, so I don't give it much thought since if anything, it is assisting traction more than anything.
It uses the stock filler neck outback.
 
I bought a new replacement tank for my Belvedere. It weighs 21 pounds empty. It is powder coated and that weight does not include the sender or the filler neck. My old tank has so much old gas and crud in it that I didn't bother weighing it.
 
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