Thrust Button Removal Help - 8 3/4 - 489

[PaveFE]

I switched to green bearings. I understand the thrust buttons need to be removed in order for the axles to fully seat. I'm having a heck of a time getting the roll pin out with a punch. Anyone ever drill it out? This is my first time doing this, hate to break something.

 

[oldkimmer]

...........U have a cone type sure grip which does not have thrust buttons...The block in the center only comes out if u dissemble the sure grip.........if ur using stock axles u do not have to take the thrust block out...kim...

 

[PaveFE]

That explains it... Thanks

 

[Cranky]

I would clean the ends of the axles then put clay on them and install and remove to see if they do butt up against it. If they do, you will have to remove the thrust block and that will require total disassembly of the Sure Grip unit to get the block out. If you do not remove the block (if the clay shows the axles are butting up to it), your bearings will fail prematurely.

 

[PaveFE]

Copy all. I took measurements of the axle with the old bearings and collar. The measurements with the green bearings and collar are nearly the same. I will use the clay and report the findings..

 

[PaveFE]

The clay option worked out well. I used some detailing clay and formed a 3/16" thick disc the same diameter of the axle and placed it in the left side of the differential. I then installed it back into the housing. I removed the rubber O-rings from the green bearings (didn't want to damage them) and installed and snugged down the right axle first (opposite of the clay disc). I then installed the left axle, snugged it down, and removed the left axle...clay disc was untouched. I removed the right axle and differential... now in the process of getting it all back together. Thanks for the help...

 

[wagonman]

Why are you going with the Green Bearings ??

 

[5.7 hemi]

The greens are sealed and don't require setting axle end play.

 

[PaveFE]

5.7 hemi is correct. I also liked the o-ring placement on the outer race. It allows you to eliminate the OEM axle seal (I installed the seal anyway). I read many reviews on the GB's... some say they can't handle the lateral force of the vehicle in corners but I believe those were the 1st gen GB's. Time will tell...

 

[Cranky]

The clay option worked out well. I used some detailing clay and formed a 3/16" thick disc the same diameter of the axle and placed it in the left side of the differential. I then installed it back into the housing. I removed the rubber O-rings from the green bearings (didn't want to damage them) and installed and snugged down the right axle first (opposite of the clay disc). I then installed the left axle, snugged it down, and removed the left axle...clay disc was untouched. I removed the right axle and differential... now in the process of getting it all back together. Thanks for the help...

Cool beans! I always ran the stock inner seals too.

 

[5.7 hemi]

That side loading crap us just that. Most greens fail because the housing isn't straight and that will screw up the bearing. The factory used the Timken for this reason as no housing was perfectly straight and those bearings allowed some leeway.

 

[khryslerkid]

Anyone ever used green bearings on a tapered axle rear housing?

 

[5.7 hemi]

They will work just fine.

 

[khryslerkid]

So is it ok to leave the block in there if you're useing green bearings and the axels are not touching?

 

[5.7 hemi]

yes

 

[Daves69]

FWIW, Timken offers student basics of bearings if interested.......................
http://www.timken.com/AntiFriction/player.html