Torsion Bars for Max WedgeBuild ?

[VANDAN]

I was wondering what size T-Bars work well to carry an Iron build Max Wedge Style motor in a Mid-60's B-Body ? Iron block, heads, cast intake & exhaust manifolds will be a whole lot more than the /6 that was in it. Looking at the MP .960s, or the PST 1.03s. Will be mainly street driven, with occasional strip runs. Any input appreciated...Thanks

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I don't the bar sizes off the top of my head, but my gut instinct would be to use whatever stock bar came in a max wedge car and/or big block car since it will be street driven. Since you can adjust ride height with the adjuster bolts, the bar diameter (for the most part) just establishes your "firmness". Basically, small bars for drag racing, big bars for autocross & stock diameter bars for street. Sorry I can't be more specific. I saw a big block b-body bar listed at 0.920, so I'd suggest the 0.960 between the two you've picked.

 

[PRND21]

I used the MP .960 bars on my 65 Belvedere with a big block. I think they were advertised as heavy duty for a big block and hemi. No problems.

 

[Glenwood]

So does using the sb or /6 bars with a bb create sloppy handling?

 

[PRND21]

So does using the sb or /6 bars with a bb create sloppy handling?

For the most part, yes. You have to crank them up a lot tighter to handle the extra weight.

 

[Glenwood]

For the most part, yes. You have to crank them up a lot tighter to handle the extra weight.

If the weight is reduced by aluminum parts, then does it still matter to upgrade them or does the additional torque of the bb come into play?

 

[PRND21]

I would say that with enough aluminum parts to make a big block weigh the same as a small block you could use the smaller bars with no problems. I'm using aluminum heads, manifold, water pump/housing and radiator, probably didn't need the .960 bars, I figured the car would be a little more stable on the street with the bigger bars without a stabilizer bar. With drag racing you want a different setup. I'm sure no expert, hopefully someone will post with more experience. I used the aluminum parts mainly to take a little weight off the front.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

The torque of the big block doesn't matter IMO, it's just the weight of the engine. If you ran an aluminum block, aluminum heads and a fiberglass front clip and front bumper then you could leave the /6 or small block bars in.

There are some tuning factors related to cornering with spring rates, sway bar diameters, etc. that the autocross guys know but is far beyond my knowledge. Bigger is not always better.

 

[lewtot184]

i use the .92's with a sway bar on my 65 coronet. the sway bar was a major help in controlling the front end.

 

[VANDAN]

After getting some feedback, and some Forum searching, I ordered a set of MP .960s to carry the expected "Heavy" front end on my build. I will have to tweak them a bit if I expect to spend a weekend at a track, but living in Western New York, the last thing I want to worry about is loosing my front end in one of the many potholes we have on our over-taxed roadways here in the "Armpit of The East". Thanks to ALL for the input, and on to the next planning session...