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Typical cost of a lower end build 383

6290988

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I'm just checking to see what the typical cost are. I'm calling a local shop tomorrow but I figured I'd check here to see what others have paid.

It's a 1969 383 4barrel motor.

I'd like it pulled apart and everything looked over. If original parts are in good shape clean it all up and put it back together except for some of the wear items like water pump and timing chain. I'd do the intake and heads myself.

I guess I'd like to hear best cast and worst case scenarios associated with cost when others tackled this project.
 
If no boring,decking or other than rings and bearings a shop will charge anywhere from $1000 - $1200 around here. Good shops will do block boiling,cam bearings, freeze plugs, rod reconditioning,checking crank and possible if the crank checks out good a polish job,$$ more.Then you can get at least another $1500 or more if you get it bored with new pistons minimum. If you want it balanced another $600 or so. Cam, lifters, timing chain,about another $400. This is just a estimate.
 
If no boring,decking or other than rings and bearings a shop will charge anywhere from $1000 - $1200 around here. Good shops will do block boiling,cam bearings, freeze plugs, rod reconditioning,checking crank and possible if the crank checks out good a polish job,$$ more.Then you can get at least another $1500 or more if you get it bored with new pistons minimum. If you want it balanced another $600 or so. Cam, lifters, timing chain,about another $400. This is just a estimate.

Life got in the way of calling the engine shop They've been in business since 1949. Very reputable shop. My brother has had a Ford motor done there and it came out amazing.

I'll have to see what they charge but the prices you mention sound reasonable.

I keep on going back and forth on building the 383 or buying an already built 440 and selling the 383.
 
Well it depends on you. I just sold a 440 stroked to a 500 inch. Why ? because I'm a bit weird and decided to go with a 1964 361 of all things. Anybody can say they have a 500 but a 361 ?? I know I'm a bit different. It will be going in my 63 Fury someday if I ever finish it.
 
Is this a HP motor
ie does it have the HP exhaust manifolds
if so not too common anymore
could you measure your piston top to deck height?
what number on the heads? any HP stamps on the heads or block (I forget where the 383's were stamped
How much taper in the cylinders
a rebuild can be anything from a valve job with a DIY ring job, new cam, lifters, timing chain, check the oil pump to make a 426 with a 440 crank and LY rods. new pistons torque plate hone or bore and hone
is the car matching number ready now?
 
Is this a HP motor
ie does it have the HP exhaust manifolds
if so not too common anymore
could you measure your piston top to deck height?
what number on the heads? any HP stamps on the heads or block (I forget where the 383's were stamped
How much taper in the cylinders
a rebuild can be anything from a valve job with a DIY ring job, new cam, lifters, timing chain, check the oil pump to make a 426 with a 440 crank and LY rods. new pistons torque plate hone or bore and hone
is the car matching number ready now?

It's a 318 Satellite so it's not numbers matching. I have no idea what the motor came out of. The only numbers I've seen so far is the date code which is 69. I guess once I pull the motor I should be able to find numbers easier.
 
Ring/bearing/cam swap rebuilds can be very rewarding if the engine isn't completely worn out/blown up. Yes, perfectly oversize cylinders/pistons and remachined everything is BETTER, but many times a good crankshaft polish and deglazed cylinder walls, with everything spotlessly CLEANED works great. If using a ridge reamer tool, get a good one and BE CAREFUL not to funnel-cut the top of the cylinder (easy to do). Too much ridge theoretically CAN break the top ring but I personally have never seen it. I would at least throw a small, bargain, shelf cam/lifter set (268/270/272ish duration and .450/.460/.470" lift) in there with some replacement HP (red) valve springs or Comp #911s etc., but that's just me. Some of my most favorite builds were done in this fashion, so have fun and enjoy!!
 
the 204-214 214-224 shelf grinds are old universal designs (but well made) and a step backward from even later factory cams you can do better even with inexpensive cams
see the Elgin catalog or other
 
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