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Valve body question

Randra

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I ordered a turbo action 17676 valve body for my 66 transmission that is in my 68 superbee from Summit. I was informed that it wasn't available and the guy at Summit found a TCI 122400 and said it was equivalent of the 17676. So it was ordered. So after work I looked it up and it says the application is for 1970 and later. My question is will this work for me? Is the only difference the neutral safety switch? Can I bypass anything to make it work? Any help appreciated.
 
I ordered a turbo action 17676 valve body for my 66 transmission that is in my 68 superbee from Summit. I was informed that it wasn't available and the guy at Summit found a TCI 122400 and said it was equivalent of the 17676. So it was ordered. So after work I looked it up and it says the application is for 1970 and later. My question is will this work for me? Is the only difference the neutral safety switch? Can I bypass anything to make it work? Any help appreciated.
Should fit with no problems. Excellent valve body.
 
I'm not familiar with this valve body, but I "believe" you can bypass a neutral safety switch by just hooking the two wires together to bypass the switch if necessary....double check with someone else because I might have that backwards.
 
I'm not familiar with this valve body, but I "believe" you can bypass a neutral safety switch by just hooking the two wires together to bypass the switch if necessary....double check with someone else because I might have that backwards.
I believe They only had one wire before 1970. I think
 
I believe They only had one wire before 1970. I think

I'm not sure either... my '70 has 2 wires & I can't remember what my '69 auto had. IF you do have a valve body that doesn't actuate a neutral safety switch (I'm not too knowledgeable about valve bodies either)....maybe you could check a wiring diagram? If it only has one wire, then maybe you could just ground that wire to bypass it?
 
Just ground out the original wire that went to switch. Just remember that it'll start in any gear!!!
 
I understand how the neutral safety switch works. But I'm just concerned if this valve body will work with my car because there are two different types of switches. And if there is any difference between the two valve bodies years.
 
There was a plastic insert on the selector at the valve body, one for park/neutral only and another longer(?) insert that was for neutral & reverse lighting. To my recollection most of the auto 68's had a 3-wire switch for neutral safety& reverse.
 
Take the shift lever from the 66 valve body and put it in the new valve body. Just make sure you do not lose the dent ball and spring. No need to change the switch or wiring.
Problem solved.
 
I ordered a turbo action 17676 valve body for my 66 transmission that is in my 68 superbee from Summit. I was informed that it wasn't available and the guy at Summit found a TCI 122400 and said it was equivalent of the 17676. So it was ordered. So after work I looked it up and it says the application is for 1970 and later. My question is will this work for me? Is the only difference the neutral safety switch? Can I bypass anything to make it work? Any help appreciated.

The switch you need has three prongs on it and you can buy the water proof pigtail for it really cheap. Why 3 prongs? Two for back up lites, one for neutral safety. You don't have to use all three prongs if you don't want but the switch is the right length to activate properly.
 
Take the shift lever from the 66 valve body and put it in the new valve body. Just make sure you do not lose the dent ball and spring. No need to change the switch or wiring.
Problem solved.
I received the valve body a couple days ago. Looks to me the tab on the lever that equates the neutral safety switch is different. Looks like an easy swap. Thanks for the info.
 
I received the valve body a couple days ago. Looks to me the tab on the lever that equates the neutral safety switch is different. Looks like an easy swap. Thanks for the info.
Controlling the elusive spring loaded dent ball will be the most challenging part. I need to build a tool to contain the little raskil.
 
Controlling the elusive spring loaded dent ball will be the most challenging part. I need to build a tool to contain the little raskil.
Do the change over inside a cardboard box that way if the ball pops the little rascal won't fly into your work area and get lost forever. I had to remove and shorten the spring for the ball to soften the shift detents and did it under a cover of plastic food wrap.
 
Do the change over inside a cardboard box that way if the ball pops the little rascal won't fly into your work area and get lost forever. I had to remove and shorten the spring for the ball to soften the shift detents and did it under a cover of plastic food wrap.
Anyone ever seen a tool to do this with? Surprised there is not a grenade pin to retain that little ball.
I have had one excape a cardboard box. Projectory must be maintained.
 
5/16" rod with a hollowed out section to hold the ball? Steady hand & small screwdriver works just as good.

IMG_0984.JPG
 
Never used one I think it's all arm strength, it's not all that stiff.
 
Anyone ever seen a tool to do this with? Surprised there is not a grenade pin to retain that little ball.
I have had one excape a cardboard box. Projectory must be maintained.

If you buy a TransGo TF-1 (or 2) kit for the valve body it contains a mumbly peg thing-a-ma-jig for installing the detent ball. Works really well. Also the shop manual shows a bent metal retainer that can be fabricated to hold the ball while dropping the shaft in place.
 
I was just looking at the instructions for the valve body and realized that the guy that rebuilt my trans forgot to put the 1-2 accumulator spring in. I assume that is why it was stuck in drive. I wonder if that had anything to do with my old valve body cracking.
 
I was just looking at the instructions for the valve body and realized that the guy that rebuilt my trans forgot to put the 1-2 accumulator spring in. I assume that is why it was stuck in drive. I wonder if that had anything to do with my old valve body cracking.
The accumulator spring takes the shock out of the bands being applied. If you are after the cushy factor shift put it back in.
Unfortunately valve bodies crack. It can happen with the engine shut off and vehicle parked. As for the trans being stuck in drive there are many causes but my fist guess would be the crack in the valve body and a stuck spool valve.
 
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