• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What all components are needed for the pop up headlights 1970 dodge charger

Dominic Torreto

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:54 AM
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
217
Reaction score
34
Location
Sheridan Indiana
I am curious what all parts are invol ed in the pop up headlights. Also how it works and where to get missing parts for this.
 
Lots of parts. Electric motor, torsion bars, hinges or pivot points, stops/bumpers and wiring. You could get a lot of them on here if you put up a wanted ad.
Why do you ask? Sounds like you may be missing quite a lot of the parts.
 
Lots of parts. Electric motor, torsion bars, hinges or pivot points, stops/bumpers and wiring. You could get a lot of them on here if you put up a wanted ad.
Why do you ask? Sounds like you may be missing quite a lot of the parts.
Yes but where is the electric motor located? I thought they were vaccum activated.
 
The motor is in between the shafts behind the center of the grille.
 
Pop up headlights?

1 no, just no.jpg


This isn't a Miata.....

2.JPG


All 1970 model cars with concealed headlights had to use an electric motor to open the headlight doors. It was Federal law.

The headlight doors pivoted from the center and were opened by a stainless steel rod that was driven by a single motor mounted below the latch support. Look closely, you'll see the silver/gray colored rod that is bent sort of like a banana. The horizontal red arrow ends right where the door motor is.


23 A89 (3).jpg
 
Last edited:
They're pretty basic, just have to have all the pieces n' parts.

I have a question about mine though. They S-L-A-M shut on my '70, like "they're gonna shatter the front end" slam shut. Open is fine, closing is...rough. Is there a counter-spring or something that should slow down / dampen the closure? My understanding is, no power to the motor is closed; power is open - kinda like a relay is either normally open or normally closed?

And to answer a question from above - yes, the 68 and 69 Chargers had vacuum operated doors; they went to electric for '70 (although this was the first I'd heard about the DOT rule).
 
I've had three 70 chargers over the years and they all slammed down fast and opened up at a slower speed . Non of them had a counter balance spring.
 
Just checking.

Maybe I'll stick some foam bumpers in there or something. It really does sound like stuff is going to fall off the nose of the car...
 
They're pretty basic, just have to have all the pieces n' parts.

I have a question about mine though. They S-L-A-M shut on my '70, like "they're gonna shatter the front end" slam shut. Open is fine, closing is...rough. Is there a counter-spring or something that should slow down / dampen the closure? My understanding is, no power to the motor is closed; power is open - kinda like a relay is either normally open or normally closed?

And to answer a question from above - yes, the 68 and 69 Chargers had vacuum operated doors; they went to electric for '70 (although this was the first I'd heard about the DOT rule).
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the '70 headlight covers were power open and power closed by the headlight light cover motor. Yea, I would not want to stick my fingers in there when the cover closes.
 
They're pretty basic, just have to have all the pieces n' parts.

I have a question about mine though. They S-L-A-M shut on my '70, like "they're gonna shatter the front end" slam shut. Open is fine, closing is...rough. Is there a counter-spring or something that should slow down / dampen the closure? My understanding is, no power to the motor is closed; power is open - kinda like a relay is either normally open or normally closed?

And to answer a question from above - yes, the 68 and 69 Chargers had vacuum operated doors; they went to electric for '70 (although this was the first I'd heard about the DOT rule).
What I did to slow mine down was to add a ballast resistor in the close circuit. It worked great.

The plug has 2 wires, both 12v power, one for open & one for close. The motor has a separate ground.
 
What I did to slow mine down was to add a ballast resistor in the close circuit. It worked great.

The plug has 2 wires, both 12v power, one for open & one for close. The motor has a separate ground.
Ah, gotcha. Like a power window. Thanks.
 
Update. Guys I dont have any of those parts period. All missing. Anybody have any ideas on where to get conversions or parts that I need for this? Even if I have to buy a motor and custom fabricate the hell out of this is plan Z.
 
Update. Guys I dont have any of those parts period. All missing. Anybody have any ideas on where to get conversions or parts that I need for this? Even if I have to buy a motor and custom fabricate the hell out of this is plan Z.
The motor and the rod was used on all mopars with headlight doors from 1970 up to the early 80's. The rod may be different lengths though. The motor bracket is specific to the 1970 charger.
 
The motor and the rod was used on all mopars with headlight doors from 1970 up to the early 80's. The rod may be different lengths though. The motor bracket is specific to the 1970 charger.
I could weld and make brackets and rods. Someones selling a motor that needs rebuilt for 175 i dont know what you think if its worth it or buy a good one for 450
 
I personally wouldn't buy one that didn't work.
 
This is the last question. I found a 1969 to electric motor conversion kit. My question to you guys will this work on a 1970?

Screenshot_20230504-004806_Chrome.jpg


Screenshot_20230504-004816_Chrome.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top