What is causing my misfiring while driving ?

[Evan Frucht]

ALSO, I am not positive and not with the car right now. BUT

When I did pull of the distributor cap on the side of the road it looked like the rotor had some burn marks on it (possibly)... it's possible it was arcing inside the cap?

That could be the condenser, correct?

 

[Don Frelier]

The ballast either drops voltage and allows power current to go through the coil and points or it goes bad and becomes an open circuit. So if it runs at all with the key in the run position the ballast is good.
Think of it like a light bulb filament.

It's normal to have a black spot on top of the rotor.

 

[Evan Frucht]

ALSO, I am not positive and not with the car right now. BUT

When I did pull of the distributor cap on the side of the road it looked like the rotor had some burn marks on it (possibly)... it's possible it was arcing inside the cap?

The points might have had a black mark on them too.

That could be the condenser, correct?

The ballast either drops voltage and allows power current to go through the coil and points or it goes bad and becomes an open circuit. So if it runs at all with the key in the run position the ballast is good.

It's normal to have a black spot on top of the rotor.

It wasnt the top of the rotor, it was the metal contact that spins around. Also the actual posts inside the distibutor cap might have shown signs of arcing like little black burn spots

 

[Don Frelier]

That's pretty normal as well. Short term you can take a sharp knife and scrape til they are shiny. Remove as little material as possible.

 

[oldbee]

Late to the show but, contacts in dist.cap; aluminum or brass? Personally, I go brass every time.

 

[Evan Frucht]

Late to the show but, contacts in dist.cap; aluminum or brass? Personally, I go brass every time.

Aluminum .... oops...

 

[Evan Frucht]

I'm forgetting, is there an easy way to check the condenser to see if its good.

I know it causes the points to arc and burn out, but is there anyway to actually see it happen. It's all covered by the cap... lol

Should I just replace it and see if the problem is fixed?

This is a brand new "Spectra Premium" distributor from rock auto just fyi. I do know new parts can and do fail tho... maybe I got unlucky and they used a shitty condenser...

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm forgetting, is there an easy way to check the condenser to see if its good.

I know it causes the points to arc and burn out, but is there anyway to actually see it happen. It's all covered by the cap... lol

Should I just replace it and see if the problem is fixed?

This is a brand new "Spectra Premium" distributor from rock auto just fyi. I do know new parts can and do fail tho... maybe I got unlucky and they used a shitty condenser...

There's a way to test them but most don't have the right equipment to do it. I think I saw a YouTube on how it was done. Easiest way is to replace.

My experience is when they go bad they act up some first. It's almost like you're running out of gas. Then a back fire or two. No power then no spark at all.

Dealing with a Mallory dual point, the Mallory condenser was very problematic. I finally found a auto parts one that had a long wire lead that did the trick. The long wire was the hard thing to find for a replacement. No problems with it for quite awhile now.

 

[Evan Frucht]

There's a way to test them but most don't have the right equipment to do it. I think I saw a YouTube on how it was done. Easiest way is to replace.

My experience is when they go bad they act up some first. It's almost like you're running out of gas. Then a back fire or two. No power then no spark at all.

Dealing with a Mallory dual point, the Mallory condenser was very problematic. I finally found a auto parts one that had a long wire lead that did the trick. The long wire was the hard thing to find for a replacement. No problems with it for quite awhile now.

Good to hear! It was sort of similar to running out of gas or low... but more drawn out. Its started having trouble idleing, then an hour later it lost power weirdly a few times while driving, then it went downhill pretty quick about 10 min after that. It did backfire a few times while I was struggling with it once it "broke down." Got it in position for the tow truck just barely... I will replace condernser tomorrow and see where that gets me... I have 2 working spares and one is brand new

 

[Evan Frucht]

There's a way to test them but most don't have the right equipment to do it. I think I saw a YouTube on how it was done. Easiest way is to replace.

My experience is when they go bad they act up some first. It's almost like you're running out of gas. Then a back fire or two. No power then no spark at all.

Dealing with a Mallory dual point, the Mallory condenser was very problematic. I finally found a auto parts one that had a long wire lead that did the trick. The long wire was the hard thing to find for a replacement. No problems with it for quite awhile now.

When I just replaced the condenser with a good one. But now the battery seems to be dead the car wont even crank or show voltage.

What issue could of drained my battery in the last couple days since I had the tow truck drop it off... the lights were not on

 

[khryslerkid]

Hard to tell. You'll have to get it charged up or jump it and see what the alternator is putting out. If it's charging ok, take the positive terminal off and hook your volt meter between it and the battery post and see if there's a drain.

 

[Don Frelier]

I prefer to charge a dead battery if possible.
Did you accidentally leave the key on?

 

[Evan Frucht]

I prefer to charge a dead battery if possible.
Did you accidentally leave the key on?

It's on the trickle charger now. Stay tuned

 

[Evan Frucht]

Well... I replaced the condenser, charged it up and now it seems to run great...

So I guess it was a case of failed condenser on my brand new distibutor.

...just leaves me wondering.... why did my battery die? No key, no lights.... if a bad condenser could somehow drain a battery, then that would explain everything.... otherwise I could have another problem ( which possibly fried my old condenser and might do the same to the new one? )

 

[padam]

I would check your charging system.

 

[Evan Frucht]

I would check your charging system.

I do have a basically new alternator as well. Bought from napa about 6 months ago. My volt meter was showing 14.8 or so volts at around 1500 rpm.

 

[Wietse]

I do have a basically new alternator as well. Bought from napa about 6 months ago. My volt meter was showing 14.8 or so volts at around 1500 rpm.

14.5Volts is more common so 14.8 is a little on the high side but should not matter.
What did cross my mind after reading the last pages, what is the voltage at the coil and distributor?
Could it be you are smoking them with too high voltage?
As after a replacement of the condenser it works fine again, but if you start having issues again very soon i think there is something not right in the electrical supply.
Maybe overcharging or so?

 

[Evan Frucht]

14.5Volts is more common so 14.8 is a little on the high side but should not matter.
What did cross my mind after reading the last pages, what is the voltage at the coil and distributor?
Could it be you are smoking them with too high voltage?
As after a replacement of the condenser it works fine again, but if you start having issues again very soon i think there is something not right in the electrical supply.
Maybe overcharging or so?

That why I suspected the ballast resist might be going bad. That's what worries me I dont want to break down again

 

[oldbee]

Evan, dome light or glove box light staying on?

 

[Evan Frucht]

Evan, dome light or glove box light staying on?

Haha. The car is a bit of a rolling project and has neither of those at the moment. The interior is pretty rough around the edges.

But thanks for the ideas