1964 Polara 8 3/4. What else does it fit?
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After you drill out the original swedged studs in the drum and hub. Then replace them with the newer oversized studs. Then I believe you use the newer drum.
(I don't know why they deleted that article on how it's done, with part numbers, on Crankshaft Coalition?)
I'm thinking about ordering flanged axles and green bearings for my '62. Around $300 plus bearings. I like the narrower housing. After '65 they became wider and you have to change the back space on your rims and they don't always look right.
Cornpatch MO
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You are right , if you only want to take the drums off. You still have to get the hubs off the axles and the drum off the studs , in order to drill the stud holes larger. Almost impossible without the proper puller, especially if you want to save the drums. Been there--done that.......... I have two 1964 complete- tapered axle third members, and one 1956 for sale CHEAP !!........................MO
Cornpatch MO
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You may want to look at the latest green bearing conversion . Said to cure problems that some earlier ones had. IIRC there is a groove in the outer bearing race and a snap ring ..Don't remember the details or where I saw them....BTW, this will raise some hackles, but why use green bearing kit if you use the correct Mopar parts and know how to do the simple axle end play adjustment. IMO green bearings are for people who don't have a shop manual ( little poke in the ribs ) ...................MO
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Thanks for the
lolThe thing is, the '62 '63, '64 and early '65 housing (tapered axle) use shims for the axle endplay. Most 1965 and newer use the adjusters.
The thing I like about my '62 housing, it is one of the narrowest ones out there. So either I keep the tapered axel, which would be fine or try to convert to a flange type. The newer green bearings, with a snap ring will work if I order the correct lenth axels. (Custom order) Also I have a 3.23 limited slip that I want to use to replace the factory, open, 2.76. If this works out like I'm thinking, useing the green bearings won't require any adjusting for endplay and I'll be able to keep this narrow housing. It seems to be a big secret about changing the tapered axles over to flange on these early housings. I'm contacting Moser and also Cass at Dr. Diff. and see what they say before pulling the trigger on this.
I have a 1970 housing that will bolt up but it adds about 3/4" to each side, and that takes up that much more wheel well clearance. Owning these early "B" bodies are a bit different for sure. The later 1965 axle housings are the best of both worlds to use in the '62 through early '65, having flanged axles and the narrower overall measurement. They're a little hard to come by and have become pricy.
The early green bearings were problematic for some reason, I'm not exactly sure what it was. The newer ones are getting good results. The one thing that I do know about any "sealed" bearing is that when pressing them on to a shaft, you make sure you are contacting the inner part of the bearing and not the outer. If you place any pressure on the outer part, you just shortened the life of the bearing if not totally screwed it up. So I'm just wondering how many bearings were installed wrong to start with.
Front wheel drive and four wheel drive vehicles use sealed bearings on the front and look at all of the side pressure that they have to take. Not as much as being on the rear of a vehicle.
(I think I'm done)
Cornpatch MO
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Good post ! Thanks for pointing out my brain fart. I had never set the axle end play on a tapered axle rear end. Mine is a 1965 in my 64 Dodge and end play is easy to set with the adjusters..Thanks for the
The thing is, the '62 '63, '64 and early '65 housing (tapered axle) use shims for the axle endplay. Most 1965 and newer use the adjusters.
The thing I like about my '62 housing, it is one of the narrowest ones out there. So either I keep the tapered axel, which would be fine or try to convert to a flange type. The newer green bearings, with a snap ring will work if I order the correct lenth axels. (Custom order) Also I have a 3.23 limited slip that I want to use to replace the factory, open, 2.76. If this works out like I'm thinking, useing the green bearings won't require any adjusting for endplay and I'll be able to keep this narrow housing. It seems to be a big secret about changing the tapered axles over to flange on these early housings. I'm contacting Moser and also Cass at Dr. Diff. and see what they say before pulling the trigger on this.
I have a 1970 housing that will bolt up but it adds about 3/4" to each side, and that takes up that much more wheel well clearance. Owning these early "B" bodies are a bit different for sure. The later 1965 axle housings are the best of both worlds to use in the '62 through early '65, having flanged axles and the narrower overall measurement. They're a little hard to come by and have become pricy.
The early green bearings were problematic for some reason, I'm not exactly sure what it was. The newer ones are getting good results. The one thing that I do know about any "sealed" bearing is that when pressing them on to a shaft, you make sure you are contacting the inner part of the bearing and not the outer. If you place any pressure on the outer part, you just shortened the life of the bearing if not totally screwed it up. So I'm just wondering how many bearings were installed wrong to start with.
Front wheel drive and four wheel drive vehicles use sealed bearings on the front and look at all of the side pressure that they have to take. Not as much as being on the rear of a vehicle.
(I think I'm done)
Wouldn't it be easier, and cheaper, to get rear wheels with the needed backspace than to take a chance on new axles? Maybe another one of my B.F.s??............................MO
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I've seen the early "B" bodies with the longer tube, (newer) housings. And they had either jacked up the back of the car to gain more tire clearance or used the greater offset wheels that don't show the depth on the outer part of the rim. Kind of reminds me of a donut spare, looking at it from the side. Not the look I'm after.
Another thing I forgot to mention, if you have an early "B" body with a open rear and you want to change it to a sure grip, the axles for the open gears are a good 1/8" longer than the axles for the suregrip. So you have to lathe or grind off the extra or find the shorter ones made especially for the sure grip.
Cornpatch MO
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Keep in mind the different kinds of thrust blocks..............MO
Let's make this simple, cut the ends off, use new ones, put 11x2.5 rear brakes on it, get axles with green bearings from Dr. Diff, install and drive the snot out of it.
Drop mic!! Lol!!
Drop mic!! Lol!!
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1967coronet440
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Hmmm, moparts has 64 listed as 60 7/8" exc max wedge and 65/67 as 59 1/2"
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You might be right. Scroll down to the second section in the link I posted. Type O I guess in the first section.
I wouldn't think that a '64 b body would have been wider than a '65.
I had a '64 Polara when I was 18. I swapped out the 8 3/4 for a 1970 Dana 60 and I had the same clearance if not a fraction better in the fender wells. I was useing a 50 series tire! Now I know why it didn't make a difference. The '70 is actually 3/8" narrower.
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