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440 source sheel metal valley tray .

Thanks for saving me from throwing my wrenches!
 
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o I got it mocked up here is what it looks like.
 
Intake only will fit with one .028 paper gasket
Can not get valley tin to work bolts holes would have to be hogged out.
Head seam to sit lower then the end rails on block by about.084 thou.
Not sure if cutting the intake here will help.
 
So does anyone have a idea what a compressed valley tin thickness is? My manifold will bolt on with one .028 paper gasket but can not bolt it on withe just the tin .
I would like to run just the tin and Hylomar sealant.
I need to have manifold machines I just don't want to machine to much .
I am thinking if I can fit a paper and It bolts on fine. I can have manifold cut the compressed thickness of the valley tin and make this manifold sit nice and tight with out opening up the bolt holes. What do we think ?
 
Intake only will fit with one .028 paper gasket
Can not get valley tin to work bolts holes would have to be hogged out.
Head seam to sit lower then the end rails on block by about.084 thou.
Not sure if cutting the intake here will help.
The main reason the valley pan holes don't fit the intake bolt holes in the head is the block end rails were not machined down like they should have been.
 
So does anyone have a idea what a compressed valley tin thickness is? My manifold will bolt on with one .028 paper gasket but can not bolt it on withe just the tin .
I would like to run just the tin and Hylomar sealant.
I need to have manifold machines I just don't want to machine to much .
I am thinking if I can fit a paper and It bolts on fine. I can have manifold cut the compressed thickness of the valley tin and make this manifold sit nice and tight with out opening up the bolt holes. What do we think ?
IF the manifold fits squarely against the head surfaces all the way around the intake manifold the pan ribs should crush down to the tin thickness of .015". Because the block rails are so high.....the pan has to distort around the juncture of the block, heads and intake and it is damn hard the get the valley pan lay down so the bolt holes line up....not easy to do with your unmachined block rails. It's why you take the block to a Mopar experienced shop that knows-what-they-hell-they-are-doing!

You may be in for some more quirks as you go along.
 
So does anyone have a idea what a compressed valley tin thickness is? My manifold will bolt on with one .028 paper gasket but can not bolt it on withe just the tin .
I would like to run just the tin and Hylomar sealant.
I need to have manifold machines I just don't want to machine to much .
I am thinking if I can fit a paper and It bolts on fine. I can have manifold cut the compressed thickness of the valley tin and make this manifold sit nice and tight with out opening up the bolt holes. What do we think ?
Not too big a problem, done this many times.
Bolt the pan on with the end bars,, then give the junction corners a light whack with a blunt chisel, and check bolt holes.
Do a mock bolt down with intake, then take apart and finish sealing it up.
 
This is where I am . I did exactly this . I feel I can seal the tin with the sealer no problem. I just want to Mill the maifold to get the bolt holes centered. I am thinking .094 is what the formula says but is that concidering the stacked gaskes or for just the tin ?
I am not trying to argue with anyone or insult .
I am trying to deal with a issue on a budget.
And don't want to take the whole block back apart to machine end rails when I can seal it with great stuff or Hylomar sealent the ports are pretty much in line with the tin now just have to cut some meatrial off the intake to get.it.to.bolt.on . thinking of subtraction of the paper gaskets would put me at .038 .
To cut .038 is less of going way to far on the first pass.
 
The .094" was for what I said......if you are replacing the very same parts that you took off that fit perfectly before you machined anything to the dimensions you listed. With different parts you may need less than .094". You may have to remove some from the manifold...see how it fits....and maybe remove some more. If too much is removed...well that is why god made thicker gaskets. Mixing and matching parts off the shelf, I have in the past used a .060" custom valley pan and a .030" and .060" gasket, one gasket on each side of the pan. That engine only made 928 HP and never leaked a drop of oil.

The whack-a mole idea may work on a pan that is .080" high on the deck and it may be a struggle.
 
Thanks.to everyone for the info!
I am going to double check again tonight and then send intake to machine shop.
I will let everyone know how it gos'
 
U can just use the paper gaskets then make a valley cover out of an aluminum sheet. That’s how my 470 stroker was done. Kim
Do you have any pictures that is why I started the post. But guys are saying that the metal one they bought keeps on developing oil leaks.
 
When your ready to test fit put a light coat of prussian blue on intake surface. The prussian will transfer to heads. Needs to be carefully done, it doesn't dry fast like dykem blue. Wear gloves and have paper towels for clean up. It's what artists use. Prussian is available on amazon or where they sell art supplies.
Can use high spot dykem, a little goes a log way
 
Manifold can be notched at the corners if needed, if you don't mind how it looks.
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Do you know how much was removed from that deck/ heads?
 
In post 35?
Long Long time ago...
unknown cut (appx .060) on manifold surface to get holes lined up and get it to seal.

Long time ago...
.090 from heads
.140 from intake side of heads
This is when I had to notch the ends

Last year
.040 from deck.
unknown cut prob (appx .06 - not enough) on manifold surface to get holes lined up.
 
Ok thanks . My motor is not that much.
.017 off the block to get zero deck for some custom pistons I wanted to use I had laying around.
And I am running Stealth heads I had cut .060 to up compression to get true 10.2 to 1 compression.
Intake bolts on with one 30 paper gasket . Won't bolt on with tin at all.
Have it a machine shop having .058 removed from port sides
 
I am in the trial fitment stage on my build and I bought the 440 Source valley tray for the B with dual plane intakes. I just wanted to share a picture so everyone could see. This is straight out of the box and I will be seeing if I can straighten the bend seen here. I'm anticipating putting a bead of RTV on the flanges to seal it if I can get better fitment than the initial test.

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