545RFE trans tunnel and other questions
- Thread starter rsqrdave
- Start date
For the momentary switch has anyone considered using their cigarette lighter or windshield washer button wired in with a relay. Once the engine was started if you take the lighter out it can act as a security system. You lose the ability to charge a phone but adding a 12 v adapter or usb stereo would fix that issue.
rescuediver1982
Well-Known Member
Along that line, does anyone know what kind of timer circuit Gas Monkey Garage used on their challenger build? I literally was just watching it on Hulu and thought it was genius so I wouldn't have to use a start button... But don't know what they used!
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
I think you will have to fab something. I took a bracket off of 2005 300 and had to do some work on it to make it fit. You may have better luck with something off of a different model. They are not all the same.
Dreamcatcher
Will fish for food
Why is it you have to use the brake light switch? Cant you use the original one from the car? There is so much of this whole swap I don't understand.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
Not completely sure but I assume the computer needs the info for some reason. There are 5 wires on it. Here is a pic of mine
Dreamcatcher
Will fish for food
I think some smart person needs to figure a way to program a run only set up on the ECU. That has fuel pressure and ignition. Like early versions knock sensor, O2 , etc. Only the basics to run! They would make a bazillion dollars.
I think it has a lot to do with electronic transmission and being able to shift it out of gear as well. I am learning a lot with it and I know 5.7 and Sixpac have a lot of good knowledge.
Last edited:
They might have used something from a remote start system. Set it up for a remote start.
Almost have the tunnel finished. Just went for it. It is a little wider than the original. I took the advice and went to a fab shop and had them pre roll the sheet metal. The fun part has been stripping out the not needed Dynamat. I went to the junk yard and found some brackets for the brake switch. I cut the side off and grafted it onto the old one. Not it mounts in the old location with a new end for the brake switch. So far so good. Now the fun part of the last section of tunnel and making sure it clears the dipstick tube. Don't mind the welds first real welding project.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
Lookin good Dave, Your tunnel looks to be a little wider than mine so you may not have a problem with the speed sensor that ends up just in front of the cross member. I had to cut a hole and add a bubble to make room for it. Here is a pic of mine. On another note, when you mentioned the dip stick, I was reminded of the problem I had with mine. It was way too long and would have been higher than the hood so I ended up cutting about 8+ inches off. Had to cut and splice the dip stick also. One of the pics on my post 28 shows the length I ended up with.
My tunnel is about an inch ish wider than the shifter connection on that side. I think it should also clear the sensor. If not its hammer time. I started my tunnel a little further back than yours it looks like. That's what happens when you cut too much. I didn't fit the dipstick tube when I put the core transmission in it. Hopefully there not too much cutting needed. Today my goal is to get it in and see the fit. I have been fighting the urge to not pull the heater box, but I think that day is coming.
What size hole did you cut for the wiring? The hotwire instructions say cut a 2 3/8, how did the 2 1/2" work for you? Would you mount is in a different spot now that you have done it? In looking at your pic I was thinking a little further to the passenger side more in the flat area on the fire wall.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
I was pretty sure my instructions called for a 2 1/2" hole. Maybe they changed grommets. I would go with what they recommend. As far as the location, most people punched the hole up higher where the outward dimple is in the firewall. That location also hides it somewhat behind the engine and makes it easy to hide the wiring under the intake. I located mine in the only place I could because of my AC heater box. Your heater box will probably dictate where yours will need to be too. Here are a couple more pics. The red circle shows that dimple in the fire wall. The other pics show I cut 11" off of the transmission dip stick and tube. Don't forget to leave the extra inch for splicing the dip stick.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
I cut mine 1" from the handle and lopped 10" more off and spliced it with some small rivets. I guess you could just re mark it.
usaroadrunner
Well-Known Member
On the ignition we just wired in a GM ignition push button switch, fired right up. Bought it at napa for $25. But I have a manual.
Cars almost ready finally. Doing the final wiring and had some questions. I am relocating the battery to the trunk. The plan was to run the positive lead (1ga) through the care and through a hole near the column. From there it should go to the starter? Then from that terminal to the old starter relay and into the car? Should I fuse protect the line coming from the starter to the old relay terminal? Additionally the new harness did not come with a positive lead from the alternator. I would need to run a new connector from the old wire to fit the new terminal and a second line to the starter terminal due to the amps or would one thicker wire, I was thinking 8 or 10ga? This is the fun part of the build.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
Similar threads
