67 Charger 8 3/4 rear end

[mr carl]

Hey Guys....going to be warm this week in Indiana so I am working on the drive train, wanting to remove the current 2:91 differential. I purchased a 2:94 (?) suregrip from a friend along with a new set of 3:23 gears. Initial intention was to change the gears in the posi diff, but now considering to install the diff as is using the 2:94 gears. I want the positraction, but am not sure how the 2:94 rear end will act with the 383 BB. My 73 CUDA runs a 3:55 positrack with my sixpack 340. 70 mph the CUDA runs at 3000rpm. I do not want that for this Charger. With the 2:94 I know I will get lower cruise RPM, but what about hammering off the line....or should I change the gears?

please your thoughts.

Carl

 

[mmissile]

That's the catch-22. Tire heights will help for different uses.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Man don't molest that 2.94 sure grip man! Keep it youll love it for a cruiser

 

[SlinktRR]

2.94 sg is rare, keep that and install as is. Then work on the other center section and install shorter gears. Or sell me the 2.94... A 383 needs something like 3.55 or better for torque of the line. I have 2.xx gears in my 70, it is a pig but you can easily cruise 100 and it flies at highway speed with 28" tires. Like the missile says you can get shorter gearing with a smaller diameter tire, but rpm will increase so thats the trade. If you need best of both you have to put a 3.73+ in along with an overdrive trans or gear vendors.

 

[mr carl]

Thanks Guys....I have started the install of the 2:94 SG and set the other regular 2:94 aside. Using the 2:94 SG will allow me to drive longer distances versus the CUDA. Really looking forward to getting this car completed by early summer so I can have it at the local car shows. It has been a long time coming and in memory of my son who started the project.

Carl

 

[mr carl]

Well Guys....I did the install and when all assembled I had a lot of rear axle end play on both sides with this SG 2:94. So, I researched the forums, internet, and the service manual. Drivers side end play is approx. 3/16"...(just less than that) ...and the right side with the adjustor is 1/8". Reading over all the information I could locate, I find that the non SG member has a floating collar (not called that) that addresses each axle so when the right side is tightened it snugs up both sides. I did not find that same information for the SG. I have pulled both axles and looked through the tube and the 3rd member does have a blockage between both sides and it does not move. Further research I find converting to the new GREEN bearings takes away having to adjust the right axle and eliminates end play.

Need some help to understand if I have done something completely wrong or is this common and if I should make the conversion to the new Green bearings.

Any help would be appreciated.

Carl

 

[Fran Blacker]

There should be Piece in cross shaft. Looks like a nail with two heads, it's probably there since you can't see through. The axle adjuster is on the right axle. There is a lock you need to remove to rotate the adjuster. Turn it clockwise to remove excess side play. You probably should tighten down adjuster so you have no side play ( to seat axle bearings) then back it off to have .014 to .020 side play, you don't want no side play. I use a piece brass pipe to turn adjuster. After you get the adjustment put the lock back on, you may need to tweek the adjustment a little or move it to another stud.

 

[mr carl]

What I see when I look into the axle tube is a somewhat square piece with a center hole in it, and it does not move. I tried to push it from side to side from both right and left sides of the axle. With the two axles inserted and bolted down, pushing the left axle in and also at the same time pushing the right axle in, it does not move the right axle back out, so there will still be end play on the left side even if I tighten the lock on the right axle. Am I looking at this correctly or am I over looking something? If I have to I will pull the 3rd member back out to make sure the parts where the axles intercept is correct. This 2:94 SG came out of a 66/67 Charger so I did not expect any issues.

Suggestions???

 

[Fran Blacker]

Look at pictures for Axle shaft thrust spacer. Go to My Mopar for a service manual. If they don't have an exact match for your car download a close year model. Most of the drive train will be good for most mopars 60's cars. If you don't have that part green axle bearing time! Or rip into sure grip and drill the hole and buy the spacer. Green bearings for me.

 

[mr carl]

I think the axle shaft thrust spacer and lock may be missing. I will pull it out tomorrow and confirm. So, if it is missing, it is OK to make the change to the green bearings with no issue to the 3rd member?

Thank you for the help and the pictures....very much appreciated.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Your suppose to remove it when installing green bearings so I've seen on this site. Hope somebody chimes in on a brand to buy. I put a set on my car but don't remember what brand. There are pro's and con's to running them. I understand there NG for hard corning events road racing and some complain that they wear out to fast.

 

[oldbee]

My wife(blame her) lost my adjuster lock that was laying on leaf spring so I went with Grn.brgs. Yes you have to lose the center button in diff. Otherwise works fine.

 

[mr carl]

thanks ....I'll repost after I get this done.....

 

[mr carl]

Pulled the differential and have attached a picture....the thrust spacer and lock pin are missing. I may just reassemble with the original 2.94 and get the axle and brakes back on just to get the car going....just another decision...lol

thanks for the help...

 

[Darthomas]

The ball bearings, when they die, can leave you stranded. Tapered cone bearings will complain about not enough a long long time before you have hurt them, and I've never had them fail on me.
Ball bearings on 7 1/4 rear axles, seen about 6 of them lunched by out of round tires from Coker on my 65 Dart GT.

 

[Fran Blacker]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...0&_nkw=mopar+powerlock+thrust+spacer&_sacat=0

Ebay there are several there or maybe Dr Diff.

 

[mr carl]

Wow....interesting. So do you have to tear down the diff to install this since there is a rivet involved or does it install loose on one end?

 

[Fran Blacker]

You probably don't have to take sure grip out. if you put in one side with pin then put axle in to hold it in place. Then put other half and peen over the pin. Maybe you could use a roll pin. It can't come out with axles in . I had a Dana 60 I bought from a shamcanic. Got it cheap pulled a screwed up axle and out came the thrust spacer stuck to the axle. It wasn't welded on oil held it in place. He put axle and didn't have any side play so it screwed up the pin. Had to pull sure grip and make there was no crap inside.

 

[mr carl]

sounds good....I may try this first before making the move to the green bearings.

 

[khryslerkid]

Looks like a pin of some kind? (Red arrow)