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68 K-Frame in a 64

Good to go and I forgot that the lower arms have different sway bar tabs and the center link is different. Are you going to reinforce it before you install? If so, pm me your email and I'll show you what I did on mine,
 
Reinforce around the steering gear and a bunch of other areas. Cuts down on the flexing of the unit.
 
Out of stock:(
That helps! Seems too many are.

I modified my stock 64 trans crossmember, by cutting loose the mount 'box', moving it back 1/2". Did do a test fit in the car, bare block, bolted up trans case, but, all's fair.
 
If you are running a push button. A S10 mount on welded piece of angle cut 2x3 square tube works. Cheap and quick. Readily avaliable as well.
Doug
 
Thanks for the suggestions. 180 spin of the mount won't work cleanly.
It moves the mount back 3" instead of 1.75" as needed. Not far off but some mods are needed.
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1.75" measurement was one of the other reasons I stayed with my stock k-frame, since as you know the later ones move everything back. And why I only needed 1/2".

But, betting you'll get it figured out!
 
If you are running a push button. A S10 mount on welded piece of angle cut 2x3 square tube works. Cheap and quick. Readily avaliable as well.
Doug

Having a hard time visualizing this setup. Does the S10 mount bolt up to the pushbutton 727 without mods?
 
1.75" measurement was one of the other reasons I stayed with my stock k-frame, since as you know the later ones move everything back. And why I only needed 1/2".

But, betting you'll get it figured out!

It doesn't look like a big deal to modify the stock mount. The advantages are mainly oilpan, header & rad clearance I guess. I was going to use some late 60's hp manifolds but I'm leaning towards headers. I would have like to have the max wedge manifolds but they are expensive. There won't be room for them once it has been moved back. Besides these advantages, I wanted to add a sway bar anyway and this kframe has a 1-1/8 installed on it.
 
Having a hard time visualizing this setup. Does the S10 mount bolt up to the pushbutton 727 without mods?
Yes by ovaling the holes about .100" When I get home I'll find a picture.
Doug

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Just wondering if anyone has pics of their RB engine in a 63 or 64 that has a later K-frame in it. Wanted to see what spacing looks like behind the engine and around the steering box.
I saw a 68 k-frame with a sway bar for sale locally and was thinking about the swap.
Glenwood, my 64 was a 426 wedge car(street) the engine when I got it was about 4" from the firewall, was about to install a 440 when I noticed a crack in the K, replaced with a 67 gtx K, didn't notice untill we got ready to put the shifter in that the motor was back about 2 to 2.5" to the rear, WTF is this????(manual tranny is easier) had to move the shifter hump in the floor board back. 17 yrs later put in a auto, had to flatten the seam in the tunnel out in the engine bay to clear the 727 bell, but that was the only mods I did to the body to make the two trans work. I looked at the rear mount and decided that it was so narrow that it didn't matter, the tail shaft couldn't move anywhere, so I did not put any bolts in the rear mount. just think about this,I have owned the car since 1975, 383,440,440,426hemi,440,509, none have ever had bolts in the rear. I think that the 64 is the only one that this will work on as all the rear crossmembers I have seen in the last 40 yrs have been too wide to work like that. maybe just the big block cars, don't know. Dave.
 
Glenwood, my 64 was a 426 wedge car(street) the engine when I got it was about 4" from the firewall, was about to install a 440 when I noticed a crack in the K, replaced with a 67 gtx K, didn't notice untill we got ready to put the shifter in that the motor was back about 2 to 2.5" to the rear, WTF is this????(manual tranny is easier) had to move the shifter hump in the floor board back. 17 yrs later put in a auto, had to flatten the seam in the tunnel out in the engine bay to clear the 727 bell, but that was the only mods I did to the body to make the two trans work. I looked at the rear mount and decided that it was so narrow that it didn't matter, the tail shaft couldn't move anywhere, so I did not put any bolts in the rear mount. just think about this,I have owned the car since 1975, 383,440,440,426hemi,440,509, none have ever had bolts in the rear. I think that the 64 is the only one that this will work on as all the rear crossmembers I have seen in the last 40 yrs have been too wide to work like that. maybe just the big block cars, don't know. Dave.

Thanks Dave. That's interesting, maybe the tight tunnel keeps it from shifting around.
What made you change it to an automatic? I'd love to change mine over to a 4 speed, so much more fun to drive.

Glen
 
when it had the hemi in it, it was a four speed w/ a dana sixty when I sold the engine I didn't think I was going to put another motor in it. sold the hemi, the scatter shield, trans(18 spline) fly wheel and all at the same time. when I decided to go fast again, couldn't afford to buy all that stuff again, so cheaped out and put the auto in. strictly a money thing Glen. Dave
 
I installed a Alterkation front suspension and welded the engine brackets to the K member (long story) so I was able to max out the reward setback. Had to cut the tunnel out and further back (GV OD clearance). I fabbed a new cross member and used the later OEM spool type mount. I already showed this to Doug but, I don't think anyone else has seen my setup.
Mike

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I installed a Alterkation front suspension and welded the engine brackets to the K member (long story) so I was able to max out the reward setback. Had to cut the tunnel out and further back (GV OD clearance). I fabbed a new cross member and used the later OEM spool type mount. I already showed this to Doug but, I don't think anyone else has seen my setup.
Mike

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Looks like a slick setup Mike, thanks for the pics.
 
Check your measurements again ! It Worked Perfect for me and very Easy 180 Degree turn and welded on a small peace then Re Drilled !!

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