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727 noisy wining wont drive

There is a great thread on rebuilding a trans if you have questions. "My first questions on my 727 rebuild journey".

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Look under service manuals, you should read trans section before tearing into it. Things like end play before you start for one.
 
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Tranny is out, what is the next step to get it apart.

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You need to pull the pump unit out of the front, they can be stubborn but carefully wiggling you can usually get them to pop out. Can't remember if it was the Chevy's or Mopars that had the threaded holes to help facilitate pulling the pump?:realcrazy:

One of the more experienced guys will chime in.
 
Look at holes in the pump- 2 are threaded for 3/8" coarse(?) so you can use a bolt in those holes with a slide hammer, alternate between the 2 a couple "bangs" each and the pump will be out, easy peasy. The o.d. of the oil pump has a big o-ring around it. Like Fran says check endplay first so you have a guideline. FSM or similar is mandatory!
 
Fran is referring to my thread on my recent 727 rebuild. Here is a link to it.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/first-questions-on-my-727-rebuild-journey.123796/

I used this to pull the pump - using the two threaded holes in the pump body to screw the all thread into.



Besides the guys on this forum this book is the best thing you can have while working on the transmission.

https://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998

When you get the pump out it's important to measure the end play on the input shaft with a dial gage and record it. And then after you get everything out, reinstall the planetary sets and drum on the output shaft and measure the planetary train end play per the above book or the shop manual. Those two measurements will tell you a lot about the condition of the parts inside and if you need to be looking for worn planetaries, thrust shims, etc.

Good luck - hopefully you don't have too much damage inside and just need a new overrunning clutch.
 
As said, record your total shaft end play, first. To 'pull' the pump, you can simply use the threaded holes in it, with a couple bolts that have enough threads, and run the bolts into the holes. When they bottom against the case, turn them in 'evenly', and the pump will push itself out.
Keep track of all your parts...keep assemblies together, until your going to work them!!!
 
Thanks i will start with checking the end play.
 
Just check the end play...for grins. With busted parts in there, might not get good numbers anyway. You'll have to do a heavy duty cleaning on every part, and the case.
Shift body...either plan on replacing it...or, if going through it, careful. If a valve is hung by crap in there, it can easily turn the body into junk.
 
Is this how i check end play, it moves 1.6mm.

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I can't be sure exactly what I'm looking at there in the picture but 1.6 mm equals .062 inch which is an acceptable figure for input end play. Typically a dial gage is used.
 
To 'pull' the pump, you can simply use the threaded holes in it, with a couple bolts that have enough threads, and run the bolts into the holes. When they bottom against the case, turn them in 'evenly', and the pump will push itself out.

Why didn't you pass that idea on to me? :)
 
It is the smaller shaft at the input that is moving 1.6mm and I measure towards the larger shaft that i cant move, measured with a digital caliper several times.
 
OK - that should be good. Once you get the pump out you can start pulling the clutch packs and then the planetary gear sets out. The governor and output shaft bearing can come off or you can just pull the shaft with them still mounted once the snap ring on the front of the output shaft and planetary train are removed from the front.

I found it helped me stay fairly well organized to pull and keep the major components together - front clutch assembly, rear clutch assembly, front planetary, rear planetary, etc. The overriding clutch that is suspect will be the last thing you reach inside the case. Then your can take each assembly apart one at a time to inspect and measure parts. I loosely reassembled it before moving on to the next one. After you've gone through each component and handled all of it a couple times it becomes a lot less bewildering.

Anything you suspect as worn, take good pictures of and post. The guys here can usually help with input if it's serviceable or needs to be replaced. On their advice I replace the larger bushings although some of them didn't really look worn. Most of the smaller ones I left since their small diameter lowers their surface speed and they don't usually wear. But if your got metal particulate that circulated through the transmission you could find some of them scored and have to replace them. A lot of the thrust shims in mine were still well within spec thickness and I re-used. Even my clutches and steel plates were all like brand new. Once your have looked at everything and measured wear you can decide what content rebuild kit your really need to put in it.

Do you have a service manual or other guide on how to disassemble everything?

Good luck.
 
Thanks yes i have some manuals from internet and Youtube have some good movies, biggest problem for me is that everything is in english,many words are new for me.
 
The pictures are the most important part anyway. Good luck and let us know with any questions/problems.
 
Where did you find the rest of the rollers and springs?
 
Fran is referring to my thread on my recent 727 rebuild. Here is a link to it.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/first-questions-on-my-727-rebuild-journey.123796/

I used this to pull the pump - using the two threaded holes in the pump body to screw the all thread into.



Besides the guys on this forum this book is the best thing you can have while working on the transmission.

https://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998

When you get the pump out it's important to measure the end play on the input shaft with a dial gage and record it. And then after you get everything out, reinstall the planetary sets and drum on the output shaft and measure the planetary train end play per the above book or the shop manual. Those two measurements will tell you a lot about the condition of the parts inside and if you need to be looking for worn planetaries, thrust shims, etc.

Good luck - hopefully you don't have too much damage inside and just need a new overrunning clutch.
That is an elaborate set up to pull the pump! A coupla long bolts will give the same result.If your car is stock,and your not racing it then stock replacement parts will be fine.
 
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