Hey Kern look at those flat spades close, some bent also
Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...
- Thread starter Kern Dog
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For a partial use car, perhaps the best thing to do is go back to the origional points and condenser system. Look at all of the energy expended, smooth starting, better MPG, blazing additional horse power claimed, not to mention the additional dollar cost and hassle (on the road breakdowns) is lost...... that is of course, the affore mentioned issues (ECU AND COIL) are what you wish, then continue to shovel $$ into the situation OR every 10,000 miles or so, replace the points and condenser and enjoy the dependability of an origional ignition system. Personally, the Prestolite dual point distributor in the GTX gets new points every 4-5 years, starts every time and has NEVER broken down on the road (in 35+years).........the old Confucius saying: "fancy gizmos don't work and if they do work they quit working at the most inopportune time, cost the most dollars to fix".....the choice is yours as to which system you prefer......just my opinion of course......its amazing how many iterations of this issue is discussed.....
BOB RENTON
BOB RENTON
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P Dubya
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I also have the same harness pulled off my bulkhead fitting right now. The red wire on yours is where my fusible link is. Do you know if the entire ignition harness is fed off that wire position? I cant get any spark out of my ignition right now and I am getting deeper into this than I feel comfortable...
Could almost blend the 2 threads together lol
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The red wire that is continuous through the bulkhead plug was part of the ammeter bypass I did in 2015. I changed the instrument panel too, to a style that used a voltmeter.
The 12 gauge wire has a fusible link then is connected to the starter relay. This powers up the interior. NO charging current goes inside this car. The alternator wire ends at the starter relay too.
The 12 gauge wire has a fusible link then is connected to the starter relay. This powers up the interior. NO charging current goes inside this car. The alternator wire ends at the starter relay too.
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P Dubya
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Absolutely! I am trying to gain some knowledge from this thread also to be used on my own car....I'm really disgusted I am having so much trouble with what will probably be a simple fix but wiring and electrical is not a strength of mine...
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Same here, man.
I deal so much better with tactile things....stuff I can see, hear, touch and smell. To me, electricity is silent and hard to see.
I looked at your thread too, PW. I hoped to glean something from it as well.
I deal so much better with tactile things....stuff I can see, hear, touch and smell. To me, electricity is silent and hard to see.
I looked at your thread too, PW. I hoped to glean something from it as well.
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yep I'd bet my bottom dollarI still think the issue is at the bulkhead connector.
The slightest movement or change in temperature can make a change and either allow or deny you the ability to start the engine.
BBL...I have chores....I'll catch up again on Page 8.
either poor or oxidized connections or corrosion/rust etc. bulkhead connections
&/or a bad ground at the ignition box/module (many times)
any paint under the surface "will be a bad ground" cause more resistance...
I also run a ground from the engine/intake bolts to one of the ign. boxes bolts
from the aluminum heads, w/composite gaskets,
still not the best grounding surface, lots of resistance
alum. isn't the best conductor
going to the iron block would be better
but have several other grounds for electronics, battery to body,
ground from alt. case to body/chassis
(it has a trunk mounted battery, it's grounded right by the battery to bare metal),
& engine to body/firewall at the ign. box hold-down bolt & engine to k-member
no searching for grounds, no resistance or lil' to none
the car in question, I refer to, is a 68 RR RM23
it had sat for several years & just got running before I bought it...
I had something similar happening in like 2005
when I 1st got the car it had points
the OE Org. Chrysler distributer from 1968, was 'so out of wack'
the dwell would bounce like crazy, even a new set of points was same deal
can't get good points, not to rev over like 5500rpm anyway
no matter how much gap in the points, dwell was all over the place,
points bouncing...
Anyway;
I put an old org. CEI dist. in it (from like a 1974 (?) Power Wagon),
I had sitting around since back in the early 80s
with an old DC orange box, breaking up over 5,500 rpm
later swapped it out with an old DC Chrome unit, capable to pull to 7,000+
had it on the car since Dec. 2005
(it was on a dual ballast '4 pin ballast resister system' & 5 pin module
from a new M&H harness)
all the ignition issues went away
a few months later, was having intermittent 'hard start'
cold or warm
it didn't matter, like it'd crank but act like 'no spark'...
I had remembered back in the day, doh !!!
That the ign. boxes need to be grounded really well
so I sanded a lil' bare metal spot on the firewall
where it was mounted around both the screw holes,
'no paint now'
& on the back side or where the holes were
on the Chrome DC CEI module/ign. controller box
'both sanded to bare metal' & put a dab of dielectric grease on the matting surfaces,
before installing the hold down bolts...
I hadn't had any problems since...
I did the same thing with all the connections in the bulkhead connector
both spade side & plug side, cleaned & used a lil' piece of sandpaper
220 grit wet/dry IIRC, lil' brass wire brushes you name it wjhat ever fit & worked
PITA all them lil' spots & hard to get to
but it needed it, & needed it bad on every connection...
I then applied a lil' bitty dab of dielectric grease
on each & every spade in the bulkhead, plugged it all back together
haven't had any issues since...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, I have a Firecore (Summit Racing $194) billet distributor
& a FBO Ign. Box (4secondsflat.com)
now no need for a ballast resister, runs on full 12 volts
with rev limiter (main reason I went to it) to save my motor
only one I have now
It was all plug & play too
Pertronix low rest. 0.2 ohm (IIRC ?) coil, that FBO recommended...
We'll see ho well it does, how long it lasts
I wanted a nicer/50 year newer distributor...
& a new ignition box for shits & giggles, replacing almost 50 y/o stuff...
I may end up going back to the old Chry. Unit if this new fancy stuff fails...
I was breaking up above like 5,800 rpm, I didn't even trouble shoot it,
I just figured it was time for new parts...
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My exhaust guy told me that the exhaust system on my A100 grows approximately 1/2" when fully hot......
Concorde stretched up to 9" during supersonic flight....
It stands to reason that a slightly loose terminal in a Mopar bulkhead connector system could conceivably grow by 1/32" making it just on the verge on losing contact with its mating male spade.
Greg, things get bigger when they are hot.....conversely they shrink when cold.
Concorde stretched up to 9" during supersonic flight....
It stands to reason that a slightly loose terminal in a Mopar bulkhead connector system could conceivably grow by 1/32" making it just on the verge on losing contact with its mating male spade.
Greg, things get bigger when they are hot.....conversely they shrink when cold.
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Exactly the same issue with the melted terminal in my car KD. Except my cowboys just crimp joined where the fuse once was. All sorted now though. Good luck with your search. As usual, it's an interesting read.
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Most of the threads of mine are LONG winded and run a few pages. There are some helpful people here.
Geoff 2
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Have not read all the replies. Has the vac adv been hooked up? Every time the VA deploys, it flexes the p/up wires. Eventually the wires break.....& no spark.
I would try a new p/up or different dist.
I would try a new p/up or different dist.
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Bee1971
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He has a new distributor going in - He wants to shorten up the slots first , to much mechanical advance , non adjustable
Bee1971
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"In 2017 I wanted to weigh the car and I had to get home (In my work truck) in time to get the Charger to the scales. One time it stalled without reason at an intersection and after trying a new coil then ECM, it fired up. The next day, It stalled in my driveway and putting the previous coil back in allowed it to start.
Yeah...It has been musical chairs with parts.
A couple of weeks ago I was tinkering with the A/C and pulled the low pressure switch. The car stalled and shut off. NO spark again. Why? What the heck does the low pressure switch have to do with the ignition wiring? I swapped in another ECM and it started up."
Just curious , what ignition coils have you been swapping , or what’s in there today , brand ignition coil and ohms
Yeah...It has been musical chairs with parts.
A couple of weeks ago I was tinkering with the A/C and pulled the low pressure switch. The car stalled and shut off. NO spark again. Why? What the heck does the low pressure switch have to do with the ignition wiring? I swapped in another ECM and it started up."
Just curious , what ignition coils have you been swapping , or what’s in there today , brand ignition coil and ohms
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I do use the vacuum advance. I have not cracked open the distributor. What you describe, while not impossible, would seem unlikely given the limited miles I've driven. I could see that if this were a 200,000 mile original unit.
I currently have an Accel. I have used that, an MSD Blaster 2 and a Mopar Performance coil.
About a year ago, I tried that FBO box that required the "Flamethrower" coil. I pulled the FBO stuff out because it made my tachometer needle bounce a lot. What is funny/ironic is....I have some coils here that I've pulled (To try another one) when I get no spark. The car starts, I think maybe it was that coil gone bad...then later I use that coil in something else and it works fine. The same crap has happened with the ECMs. I've thought many times that my connections and grounding were just dirty or loose and went about cleaning and tightening them, most times making no difference.
Again, it seems like voodoo where someone is looking down on me pressing buttons to watch me cuss and complain!
not that it's your problem, but I went through 3 coils until I settled on this epoxy filled coil from MSD. The previous Accel and MSD Blaster 2 both failed on me in less than a few thousand miles. Leaked oil out the top from overheating. Coil orientation can be important too. If not using the epoxy filled, it's best to have those oil filled coils vertical. Even then they can leak.
Here's the one I'm using now:
https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8222-Bla...HNBW1ojFBCdgms1_Pj2m092_3mmmCIsIaArsnEALw_wcB
MSD 8222 Blaster High Vibration Ignition Coil
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