Best source for a Torqueflite re-seal kit.

[AR67GTX]

My winter project is to pull the leaky Torqueflite out and replace as many seals and gaskets as I can without a complete disassembly. The transmission functions fine - it just leaks. The converter looses all it's fluid overnight and I have to run it in neutral for 30 seconds to pump it back full before I can move. The fluid from the convertor apparently overfills the transmission body and then it runs out past various shaft seals, gaskets, etc.

So who makes the best gasket and seal kit for something like this?

Related to this I can't seem to get the pan to seal back up tight after a filter change. I'm on my second or third gasket and I even bought one of the new reproduction pans and I still get a seep - mostly at the right-forward corner where it sort of cantilevers out a little. I even cut a rail reinforcement for that corner out of heavy metal and only slowed it down. So, what's the secret to sealing a transmission pan? I don't ever remember having a problem with this on past Mopars. I have a new blue gasket which I haven't tried before. I'm wondering if using RTV on a transmission pan gasket is an issue?? Should I instead just install it dry? Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dan

 

[snakeoil24]

I would put a check valve in the return line to stop drain back. Then go to Trans star for kits. They supply all the trans shops with parts. Use the supplied gasket, apply torque in proper sequence measured in inch pounds. Then get a dip stick from Milodon with a double O ring to improve your leakage. Last thing is get a deep sump pan and lower the pick up but don't over fill with the extra 2 quarts. Blue gasket works good, but never had an issue with cork rubber combo. You could spray the pan with red permatex, then spray gasket so they cling in place..

 

[moparwacko]

Ditto on a check valve.......but sounds like you have more going on than just a converter drain back issue. Without knowing what converter you're running, hard to diagnose especially without a pressure test. Sounds to me like you definitely have a pump/ servo seal thing happening if it takes that long to get it moving. If I remember correctly, upon start-up line pressure should be instantaneous ?? Tranny experts help here!! it's been years for me, but if you're into it that far (removal, seals, pump seals) you're 80% there, rip er apart.

 

[AR67GTX]

I'm not clear about the return line for installing a check valve - are you referring to the lines to and from the radiator?

This is a pretty much stock transmission and converter I believe - can't be sure as when I checked numbers it was for a 383 (4bbl I think) instead of a 440. The prior owner was supposedly a transmission mechanic but he didn't work much magic on this one as far as leaks go. I think I remember him saying something about trimming a spring somewhere to increase shift rpms or something. Guess I'll have to dig into it a little to verify what's in it.

Thanks

 

[dvw]

I don't like check valves, they clog. Ask someone who has had a overdrive fail on a 518. Paper gasket and seal kits are available online or at you local trans supply house, cheap. I buy pump and output seals for $2. The paper and pan gaskets are all the same. Proper torque and correct install and you shouldn't have any issues. About the only thing you may see is seepage from the front seal. Converter snouts wear, pump bushings wear.
Doug

 

[Garys1969RR]

Don't forget the shifter shaft seal, where the shaft comes up from the valve body thru the trans case. This one often leaks too. It looks as if the pan gasket is leaking, when it's really the seal for the shift shaft. I have replaced these with the trans in the car, although it's quite a job.

 

[AR67GTX]

I'm still confused about the location of the check valve??

I've used inch-pound torque wrenches on the pan, various RTV sealers, changed pans, said prayers to the gasket gods - just wondering if it's better to use a blue gasket dry or with a sealer?

 

[oldbee]

I don't believe 383-440 were any different, except for minor variance in governor pressure. Big difference was in hemi's.Front clutch drum width& pressures,mainly. You may have seals leaking internally(?).

 

[Fran Blacker]

Make sure the trans pan is flat, in tightening down the pan the bolts can push down the area around the bolt holes. The span between the bolt holes won't press hard enough on the gasket. Yes the shift lever seal could be leaking. If you replace the shift lever seal you'll have to remove valve body. That's the time to pressure test (with air) the trans to see if you have an internal leak. I don't think you have a problem that would show on the pressure test but?? I had a trans that lost high gear the seal was cracked but you could hardly feel it when I took it apart.

 

[Fran Blacker]

This problem/ diagnosis for delayed engagement. Starts at line A. The line g is for another problem.

 

[khryslerkid]

Is there a check valve in the valve body that helps with the torque converter drain back?

I had that problem with my 2003 Ram. It would overflow the dipstick tube after sitting for a week or two. Start it up like that and really had a mess.

What I did was left it a pint low and if it sits for awhile, I'll start it in neutral, just as a precaution.

 

[Fran Blacker]

kryslerkid, There is a torque converter control valve as you said. I looked at schematic could be the problem. It is spring loaded valve in valve body. Stuck, weak spring? Will try to post something on it tomorrow.

 

[oldbee]

Khrysler- if there's a check valve it's probably in oil pump? Mine needs to wait 20-30secs after startup to want to go, but I've got an external cooler inline with radiator mounted towards top of rad.; so I understand the hesitation. Course never hesitated with a 1200rpm idle and a 4500 converter back in the day!!

 

[Fran Blacker]

I have a service manual and there is no check valve in pump. I had to take a part a pump housing and replace the bushing the snout of the torque converter rides. Tomorrow I'll try to post the info. I'm saying the problem could be in the valve body . If you read my post from earlier you can see there are other things. Valve body is an easy remove in the car. After that it gets harder.

 

[oldbee]

Fran now you have my brain cells bouncing around!Have to check a little further, have a '68 fsm so it'll make it a little easier.

 

[AR67GTX]

It seems to me to be pretty clearly drain down of the converter. Start the car up cold in park after sitting for a day or more and put in reverse and nothing happens. I understand the pump does not operate in park - is that correct?

Put it in neutral for 6 or 7 seconds and I can get a soft engagement when I go back to reverse but as it runs a few more seconds it behaves normally when I back up.

Wait for about 15 seconds in neutral instead and I get a normal engagement when I shift back to reverse. It's pretty clearly just taking time for the pump to fill the converter.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I assume sfm is a service manual? If it isn't let me know. If you look at the exploded view of the valve body you'll see the torque converter control valve. That I believe acts as a check valve, it's spring loaded. After that go to the schematic 1st or second page of them. In the lower left hand corner you'll see the tcc valve follow it both ways. Yea trans are scary but if you have a service manual you can do it. I burned up a set of clutches 35 years ago pulled it apart and fixed it and did a pump bushing. I'm just a backyard mechanic. Never took a trans a part. If you decide to go deeper into tranny I could give you a few hints I learned from mistakes. No big mistakes but hints to make it easier.
The pump runs all the time.

 

[dvw]

Overdrive trans had a check valve un the cooler line. The pump is always moving fluid when the engine is running. The converter charge circuit charges slowly after converter drain back. The conveter is low on fluid at start up causing the condition. Sonnax makes a update cure.
http://www.sonnax.com/articles/204-the-cure-for-the-common-chrysler-rwd-cold
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

Some info. Photo with valve body removed inside of trans. air test in four holes rear clutch apply front clutch apply front servo apply (top of pic) rear servo apply. If you put air pressure in the holes and hear air leaking inside and don't hear things working there's a problem. Picture of v body the torq conv control valve and regulator valve either could be stuck or? the schematic is for neutral. If dig into trans any further get a manual. can't load full pages to website get "file to large error code".

 

[Fran Blacker]

PS If all gears forward and reverse are working I don't know if the air test will mean anything, probably not.