My charger restoration dream car

[threewood]

Lookin good!

Quick question...what its the thickness and diameter of the small wheel on the accelerator mechanism? Mine vanished.

 

[Don selleck]

Thanks, I still have never driven a charger and am looking forward to driving mine.

I drove mine about 1/4 mile when i got it, couldn't go over 20 mph, bad front end all over the road, that was sept. 2014 did get a couple burnouts in my driveway though. I'm hoping to get mine together enough to drive it this summer. it's kinda like waiting for Christmas when your a kid.

 

[69 GTX]

Threeewood I'll check tonight

 

[showard]

Lookin good!

Quick question...what its the thickness and diameter of the small wheel on the accelerator mechanism? Mine vanished.

The thickness of my accelerator wheel is 1/4" and the diameter is 1".
Classic industries has one for $17 or $18 Product # MB1880. Maybe you can find one somewhere else.

 

[threewood]

The thickness of my accelerator wheel is 1/4" and the diameter is 1".
Classic industries has one for $17 or $18 Product # MB1880. Maybe you can find one somewhere else.
View attachment 391750

Perfect, thank you! I can make one for quite a bit less than $18.

 

[showard]

Perfect, thank you! I can make one for quite a bit less than $18.

That's a better idea.

 

[showard]

My center console was in poor condition. The door was bent and the plastic console was cracked and broken. I spent some time and glued, cleaned, and painted the plastic console and it looked decent. I also cleaned, buffed, and painted the metal parts. After putting them back together I decided that I would rather spend the money on the new plastic console. The old one just was to brittle.

My trim parts did not fit the new console very well. I used the torch to carefully heat and reshape some of the plastic to get the parts to fit correctly.

My door was bent and the rubber stoppers were old and rotted. I tweaked and bent the door straighter and cleaned out the old rubber and glued in some home made foam rubber stoppers.

It was also missing the latch catch and the old lock didn't work. I made a latch and bought a new lock.
I think that it is about ready to reinstall.

 

[69 GTX]

Looks great! I find myself doing that a lot. Something just doesn't look up to par with the rest of the car so I end up buying new or better pieces.

 

[showard]

When I first started rebuilding this car I did not realize what parts I could get for it and was trying to make due with what I had or used parts that I could get to save money. As the car gets closer to getting finished I have been getting more OCD and want everything to look new.

 

[showard]

When I bought my car it was missing the dash and so it did not have a vin tag. It did come with a clear title and I had it transferred to my name. I bought a dash frame from another car to restore for mine. I took the vin tag from that dash to a sign shop and had them copy the tag design and put my vin number on for my car. They did not have a number stamp so I just had them engrave the numbers in it. I think that it looks good.

Because this car was missing many things I am not worried about having everything original as long as it looks new and close to original. I did not want to pay $29.00 for 2 rivits, to hold my vin tag on, so I used my dremel and fluted my own rivits.

After painting them and installing them I think that they look good and don't think that anyone will notice that I used the wrong rivits.

 

[Glenwood]

Smart!

 

[threewood]

I like it! Save money where you can and there will be more money for other things.

 

[69 GTX]

Yes I couldn't see paying 15$ a piece for rivets! Or 30$ for the decal.

 

[showard]

I put her back on her landing gear so I could adjust the front end height. First time that it has been on all fours sense I put it on the rotisserie a few years ago. I dry fit one of the fenders to get an idea of how it will look.

 

[69 GTX]

Lookin good!

 

[daytona kid]

Lookin Good Bro!
I took my vin tag off to paint my dash by cutting/grinding the backs off the rivets, saving the front of them to glue back on.
Don't be under the car when adjusting the T bars without a block or jack to keep the car from dropping on you. Best to jack it up to adjust them anyway. The threads on the adjusters can bust out and the car drops if you do it without jacking up... Ouch!

 

[Photon440]

There shouldn't be any tension or pressure at all on the suspension when doing an adjustment, the threads aren't meant for that. It should already be jacked up.

 

[showard]

Lookin Good Bro!
I took my vin tag off to paint my dash by cutting/grinding the backs off the rivets, saving the front of them to glue back on.
Don't be under the car when adjusting the T bars without a block or jack to keep the car from dropping on you. Best to jack it up to adjust them anyway. The threads on the adjusters can bust out and the car drops if you do it without jacking up... Ouch!

That is a good idea to do with the vin tag but I ended up throwing my rivits away after I ground them off.
That is a good tip for adjustment of front suspension. I did make sure to jack my car up when I was making the adjustments.

 

[69 GTX]

I also used never seize on the threaded stud to help.

 

[showard]

There shouldn't be any tension or pressure at all on the suspension when doing an adjustment, the threads aren't meant for that. It should already be jacked up.

Even with the car jacked up I did notice that the threads still have a hard time turning against just the torsion bar pressure.