Paint colors for front suspension

[moparfanUSA]

I have the whole 69 K-frame apart and wanted to paint it the proper colors. I know the k-frame is black as is the upper control arms. The lower control arms, spindles are cast look, so I was going to go with Eastwood detail gray or they have spray gray, any idea which one would be correct? I think the strut rods were a silver color, but not quite sure which one to use.
Also looks like the lower control arms were "dipped" in a coating on the gold side, any idea what that was?

 

[super-bee_ski]

I had my stuff powder coated "Belgian silver"
(not the K-member, nor the upper A-arms.

My sway bar was also powdercoated this "silver"

As were some other stuff.

But; If you watch GraveYard Carz, Mark Worman had the "Belgian Silver" on his A-arms along with a "gold cadium style finish"

It might have been a "Bengal Silver" I cant remember.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

:happy1:

 

[moparfanUSA]

I think I can buy the "gold cadium" look at eastwood also.

 

[moparfanUSA]

any other opinions?

 

[CudaChick1968]

any other opinions?

Yes. You can use what the factory did instead of relying on some restorer's interpretation.

Mopar Chassis Color Chart
​

Legend:
BC: Body Color
GB: Gloss Black
SB: Semi-gloss Black
CI: Cast Iron Gray
N: Natural Steel or Aluminum
MP: Manganese Phosphate
CC: Color Code

(*): Some Mopar core supports are body color with semi-gloss black sprayed
on the grill side. There are some variables from what is shown above.
​

Assembly:
Front Unibody subframe assembly BC
Inner Fenders BC
Firewall BC
Core Support BC*

Transmission Components:
Transmission N/CC
Driveshaft N/CC
Transmission and driveshaft Yoke N/CC
Differential Housing SB
Clutch Linkage N

Brake Components:
Brake Drums SB/N
Disk Brake Shields N
Calipers CI
Master Cylinder GB or CI

Axle/Suspension Components:
Axles N/CC
Third Member SB
Upper Control Arm GB
Lower control Arm GB
Inner and Outer Tie Rods N/CC
Tie Rod Adjustment Sleeve SB
Center Link MP/CC
Idler Arm/Bracket CI/CC
Suspension Components(con’t) Strut Rods CI/CC
Torsion Bars GB/CI/CC
Shocks SB/CC
Rear End U-Bolts N/CC
Rear Leaf Springs N/SB/CC
Backing Plates GB
Spindles CI/CC
Anti-Sway Bars N/CC

Steering Components:
Pitman Arm CI/CC
Steering Box N/CC

Exhaust Systems:
Muffler Hangers and Clamps N
Exhaust System and Mufflers N

Gas Tank Components:
Gas Tank N
Gas Tank Straps N/GB
Gas and Brake Lines N

 

[Meep-Meep]

Here is what I did. K frame is SEM hot rod black (two part catalyzed). UCA, LCA strut rods, drag link POR15 Metal Mask. Ball joints and tie rods are natural MOOG. Still need to spray clear to protect them. Spindles and related iron components are Cast Blast and another brand of cast iron paint to give some contrast. Steering box is cast blast but I have seen black plenty of times.

 

[Seax440Dodge]

that.... is beautiful :headbang:

 

[Chargerjase]

Yes. You can use what the factory did instead of relying on some restorer's interpretation.

Mopar Chassis Color Chart
​

Legend:
BC: Body Color
GB: Gloss Black
SB: Semi-gloss Black
CI: Cast Iron Gray
N: Natural Steel or Aluminum
MP: Manganese Phosphate
CC: Color Code

(*): Some Mopar core supports are body color with semi-gloss black sprayed
on the grill side. There are some variables from what is shown above.
​

Assembly:
Front Unibody subframe assembly BC
Inner Fenders BC
Firewall BC
Core Support BC*

Transmission Components:
Transmission N/CC
Driveshaft N/CC
Transmission and driveshaft Yoke N/CC
Differential Housing SB
Clutch Linkage N

Brake Components:
Brake Drums SB/N
Disk Brake Shields N
Calipers CI
Master Cylinder GB or CI

Axle/Suspension Components:
Axles N/CC
Third Member SB
Upper Control Arm GB
Lower control Arm GB
Inner and Outer Tie Rods N/CC
Tie Rod Adjustment Sleeve SB
Center Link MP/CC
Idler Arm/Bracket CI/CC
Suspension Components(con’t) Strut Rods CI/CC
Torsion Bars GB/CI/CC
Shocks SB/CC
Rear End U-Bolts N/CC
Rear Leaf Springs N/SB/CC
Backing Plates GB
Spindles CI/CC
Anti-Sway Bars N/CC

Steering Components:
Pitman Arm CI/CC
Steering Box N/CC

Exhaust Systems:
Muffler Hangers and Clamps N
Exhaust System and Mufflers N

Gas Tank Components:
Gas Tank N
Gas Tank Straps N/GB
Gas and Brake Lines N

Cool CudaChick that's great. Is this for multiple years or just 69? If its 69 specific, can you please post up 73?

Cheers

 

[moparfanUSA]

Wow, very nice Cuda Chick. That is great information.
Meep, yours looks very nice, thanks for the pictures.
Where did the cadium color come into play....from the factory?

 

[CudaChick1968]

ChargerJase, I really don't know and that's a great question I hope someone can answer. I have NO idea where I got that list but know I've relied on it for years now with great success (and no complaints).

I've had it in one of my research notebooks in the shop forever and, until recently, the only way I could share it was through photos of that page. One of the guys from the Yahoo 67-69 Barracuda Owners Group recently took it upon himself to type it up into a format easily shared with all ... so I'm sharing it. I hope it's as helpful to all of you as it has been to me through the years.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Thanks Meep!
Thanks Cuda Chick!

 

[Chargerjase]

Thanks Cuda Chick and Meep Meep. I would say that is would be the standard across all years at a guess. All the same its great to have the written information and the pictures for reference.

 

[rakort]

Excellent color guide!

However, I'm trying to understand the CC or "Color Code" legend code.

For example the driveshaft I'm about to paint....it's tagged N/CC?

What was the OEM drive shaft finish for 68-9??

Mopar Chassis Color Chart
​

Legend:
BC: Body Color
GB: Gloss Black
SB: Semi-gloss Black
CI: Cast Iron Gray
N: Natural Steel or Aluminum
MP: Manganese Phosphate
CC: Color Code

(*): Some Mopar core supports are body color with semi-gloss black sprayed
on the grill side. There are some variables from what is shown above.
​

Assembly:
Front Unibody subframe assembly BC
Inner Fenders BC
Firewall BC
Core Support BC*

Transmission Components:
Transmission N/CC
Driveshaft N/CC
Transmission and driveshaft Yoke N/CC
Differential Housing SB
Clutch Linkage N

Brake Components:
Brake Drums SB/N
Disk Brake Shields N
Calipers CI
Master Cylinder GB or CI

Axle/Suspension Components:
Axles N/CC
Third Member SB
Upper Control Arm GB
Lower control Arm GB
Inner and Outer Tie Rods N/CC
Tie Rod Adjustment Sleeve SB
Center Link MP/CC
Idler Arm/Bracket CI/CC
Suspension Components(con’t) Strut Rods CI/CC
Torsion Bars GB/CI/CC
Shocks SB/CC
Rear End U-Bolts N/CC
Rear Leaf Springs N/SB/CC
Backing Plates GB
Spindles CI/CC
Anti-Sway Bars N/CC

Steering Components:
Pitman Arm CI/CC
Steering Box N/CC

Exhaust Systems:
Muffler Hangers and Clamps N
Exhaust System and Mufflers N

Gas Tank Components:
Gas Tank N
Gas Tank Straps N/GB
Gas and Brake Lines N

 

[CudaChick1968]

The N part means it was bare, and CC means Color Code (i.e., body color). When there's a slash in between I believe it could be either way.
I can't personally remember ever seeing a painted drive shaft except on some Olds and GM cars.

 

[moparnation74]

68-70

Sway bars were black along with the bushing brackets to k frame....confirmed off of survivors and NOS
LCA were mostly all natural and all dipped in cosmoline(up to 2" or so from the Lower ball joint end), very few were black(this is still debated)...
UCA were all natural
UCA bushings have a light brownish/bronze finish
strut rods were natural with a heat treated finish
Tie rods, lower ball joints, idler arm, pitnam arm, natural cast
upper ball joints natural machined finishes(same look as the new ones purchased)
Spindles, centerlink natural cast finish
tie rods sleeves natural
Backing plates(drum) black zinc phosphate

gas tank straps were a fine galvanized plate
gas tanks tin plated

I have done tons of research in these years on finishes and in conjunction with the other major restorers in the community....

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Lower control arms were dipped in a product known as cosmoline. They were dipped bare metal and eventually it wore off and the rusted. Check out Resto Rick's website for the different options he has for duplicating the look. It has a gold color to it.

 

[rakort]

thanks moparnation, this is all super good information. I will use accordingly as I have most if not all of those pieces are in the queue for restoration/plating/painting/coating.

From my seat I think I will be doing a something I seen before to resemble fresh cast iron for iron pieces. I gray sort of look. Not sure what I am going to do for the natural steel pieces...ie strut rods, UCA's etc....any thoughts?

So looking at the great chart that CudaChick1968 provided, the drive shaft is either natural "N" or color code "CC." In no way do I believe or want to paint my drive shaft the car color....natural seems much more believable....

So what do the aficionados say regarding driveshaft finish? Natural?

Sorry I'm pestering that point as I have a driveshaft blasted and in self etch primer waiting to be sealed down.

Regarding the black for things like the K-Frame.....I'm thinking a satin or semi gloss...does that seem right? I'm not thinking gloss or flat.

The other thing that is in my face right now is the rear axle. So the third member should be bare cast and the housing should be satin black?


thanks so much for all the help and input.

68-70

Sway bars were black along with the bushing brackets to k frame....confirmed off of survivors and NOS
LCA were mostly all natural and all dipped in cosmoline(up to 2" or so from the Lower ball joint end), very few were black(this is still debated)...
UCA were all natural
UCA bushings have a light brownish/bronze finish
strut rods were natural with a heat treated finish
Tie rods, lower ball joints, idler arm, pitnam arm, natural cast
upper ball joints natural machined finishes(same look as the new ones purchased)
Spindles, centerlink natural cast finish
tie rods sleeves natural
Backing plates(drum) black zinc phosphate

gas tank straps were a fine galvanized plate
gas tanks tin plated

I have done tons of research in these years on finishes and in conjunction with the other major restorers in the community....

nation

 

[moparnation74]

Rakort,. No problem at all you can pm me your number and I will.be happy to help you anytime. it is easier over the phone with questions like yours.

Driveshafts were natural only...people nowadays blast everything which is a huge mistake, you lose inspection marks, welding burns, patinas etc. If the parts are so bad and you can't find a good replacement than blasting is the option but it takes a lot of time to recreate factory manufacturing looks.

Housing were all semi gloss and members cast...best and closest I have found is duplicator semi gloss black, rattle can, from O'Reillys. Yes, rattle can. OE painting is a crappy looking job to say the least. There are not many parts on these cars that were not dipped. Even K Frames were dipped....

Degrease all parts first, next evaporust. Once pulled from evaporust wipe off the part slow and lightly, I cannot tell you how many inspection marks popped up and were not seen prior to and after degreaser. Once inspected after ER if it has deep rust I soak in acid and resoak etc and neutralize it in baking soda and water. Then back into ER...

I have tried every type of clear, wax solutions, penetrol etc..but the metal finish always changes its look and through time has surface rust. The best so far has been Cosmoline clear called Rust Veto.

I am currently restoring my 69 X and I will start a build thread here with as many explanations I can provide on its journey but I have to get deeper into that before I can start that thread. Attached are a couple pics..the idler arm is a 68-69 original piece not NOS but a perfect used one and it is restored, once on the car it will get the inspection marks.

I do not know it all but I have been involved in a lot of restorations....

 

[SuperBeeman]

My front end mostly power coated black,painting tie rods and such after front end alignment. My car is going to be a new driver ,so I'm not going for a paint spot resto.