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rear leaf springs ?

Pardon my ignorance, but what does ISO stand for? Isolation pads between the leafs?
The reply above is accurate. Chrysler used a rubber rectangular pad approximately an inch thick above and below the leaf springs. Under the rubber was a plate just like the older cars have but also above the rubber. The rear ends U boots are longer and attach in the same manor as the older models sandwiching the rubber between the metal which dampens the vibrations for a smoother ride.

This was also done at the K frame. The K frame was redesigned a little bit and round rubber biscuits are sandwiched in between the frame and K frame.

Last but not least….. the transmissions cross member was redesigned and moved about 6 inches and was also given smaller round rubber biscuits to limit vibrations.

All in all, the goal for a smoother and quieter driving car was met and I think the road really nice.

HOWEVER - As far as performance goes, they kill the off the line and gear change hits because the rubber gives way unlike the older suspension. So if your upgrading a ISO suspension car, you should loose the rubber biscuits and work in the older stuff.

In the K frame, the police package has “Hy-durometer” bushings that are less flexable and the MoPar community has had a few fellas make aluminum biscuits.

On the rear end, it’s ether removal of the perches and weld in the older one and use older springs or weld up the big hole where the leaf spring locating on is and then get small pin locator springs installed.

Small locator springs are ether stock, SS springs or most every aftermarket manufacturer made spring. But you must check with them!

Also, the trans cross member rubber bushings should be replaced. The worst case is you use a stock of washers. (Don’t do that, really!) But a nice round piece of stock, cut down to the proper thickness would work excellent!
 
I’ll get pictures of my ‘79 Dodge Magnum I modified in this manor. Though I’m not finished with it.
 
The reply above is accurate. Chrysler used a rubber rectangular pad approximately an inch thick above and below the leaf springs. Under the rubber was a plate just like the older cars have but also above the rubber. The rear ends U boots are longer and attach in the same manor as the older models sandwiching the rubber between the metal which dampens the vibrations for a smoother ride.

This was also done at the K frame. The K frame was redesigned a little bit and round rubber biscuits are sandwiched in between the frame and K frame.

Last but not least….. the transmissions cross member was redesigned and moved about 6 inches and was also given smaller round rubber biscuits to limit vibrations.

All in all, the goal for a smoother and quieter driving car was met and I think the road really nice.

HOWEVER - As far as performance goes, they kill the off the line and gear change hits because the rubber gives way unlike the older suspension. So if your upgrading a ISO suspension car, you should loose the rubber biscuits and work in the older stuff.

In the K frame, the police package has “Hy-durometer” bushings that are less flexable and the MoPar community has had a few fellas make aluminum biscuits.

On the rear end, it’s ether removal of the perches and weld in the older one and use older springs or weld up the big hole where the leaf spring locating on is and then get small pin locator springs installed.

Small locator springs are ether stock, SS springs or most every aftermarket manufacturer made spring. But you must check with them!

Also, the trans cross member rubber bushings should be replaced. The worst case is you use a stock of washers. (Don’t do that, really!) But a nice round piece of stock, cut down to the proper thickness would work excellent!
Definitely good to know. Are you aware of any suppliers that still offer the Hy-durometer bushings or a functional equivalent that's not fixed/solid?
 
Definitely good to know. Are you aware of any suppliers that still offer the Hy-durometer bushings or a functional equivalent that's not fixed/solid?
Sorry, no. Check the dealers nation wide search on other dealers.
 
Yeah...No doubt. This garbage has to go bye-bye.
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I had mine re-arched at a spring shop.
had that done on my fury and it didnt last a summer. I ended up first band aiding them with air shocks, finally last year I got a new set from General Spring out of KC. There was a choice I think of 4 5 or 6 leaf. I think I got the 5. Mines a 2 door with a 318, it sat up noticeably vs the originals but not too high. I then put Monroe Reflex shocks on in place of the air shocks. Lots better.
 
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