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Thoughts on newly built motor oil leak

440beep

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So today I started my freshly rebuilt 440 and worked out the normal teething problem leaks. However, I noticed a nice oil pool on the ground at the back of the motor and can't believe this!! I'm grasping at straws here, but might a RMS leak with break in oil versus normal oil? :wtf:
 
Oil shouldn't make a difference. A leak is a leak.

Make sure it isn't coming from above. Rear of the valve cover. Oil pressure sending unit. If you have your inspection cover off, look at the flywheel flange on the crank and see if it's wet there.
 
Yea, that's what I figured. The oil sending units are dry. Will check the valve cover and see what I can do about seeing the converter flange/crank area for oil.

Oil shouldn't make a difference. A leak is a leak.

Make sure it isn't coming from above. Rear of the valve cover. Oil pressure sending unit. If you have your inspection cover off, look at the flywheel flange on the crank and see if it's wet there.
 
And then you have the two oil plugs by the rear cam plug&cam plug itself. Sorry about that!
 
Snake is right, but not everyone can afford a cradle or dyno break-in. It would be great, but otherwise, it's do your best and cross ur fingers.
 
Exactly, and now I'm paying for it. I could have dyno'd it first, but was stubborn (i.e., stupid) and thought it will be fine. So now I'm going pull the motor and take it over to another engine builder/dyno shop and have them fix it and run it beforehand.

Snake is right, but not everyone can afford a cradle or dyno break-in. It would be great, but otherwise, it's do your best and cross ur fingers.
 
Whoa- pull the motor? That's a lot of work for something that's fairly easy(but messy).
 
Well I don't have a lift and don't feel like lying on my back trying to get the oil pan and everything else off just to f it up as I attempt to fix it. The motor has to be out anyway if I'm going to test run it this time around.

Whoa- pull the motor? That's a lot of work for something that's fairly easy(but messy).
 
Lee you have a point there. Spent 30+ on a creeper, it gets old pretty quick.
 
So today I started my freshly rebuilt 440 and worked out the normal teething problem leaks. However, I noticed a nice oil pool on the ground at the back of the motor and can't believe this!! I'm grasping at straws here, but might a RMS leak with break in oil versus normal oil? :wtf:
You're probably right about pulling the motor. Let someone who will take responsibility for future RMS leaks install a new seal. I have heard of people who have done this job three times and the damn thing still leaks.
 
Priming the oil pump , prior to installation engine in the car

Is this enough to produce adequate oil pressure to check for oil leaks , especially the rear main seal ?
 
Yea I doubt it also. My builder primed the oil pump on the build stand so if it was enough to generate the RMS leak I'm sure he would have seen it. But wouldn't you need the crank to be spinning also to see if it leaks?
 
Bee1971- probably not in my opinion.
Was thinking about this prior to the installation of my 383 Stroker 432

I would assume the crankshaft would have to bee rotating at RPMs

I finally nailed my rear main seal properly last summer by clocking the seal halves at 12 and 6 and using Black Rtv on the side o-rings of the Mancini retainer

But now a brand new motor , short block only , and I want to do the rest

I would love to run this thing prior to installation , but man they want a small fortune locally as my machine shop doesn't have the means
 
Yea I doubt it also. My builder primed the oil pump on the build stand so if it was enough to generate the RMS leak I'm sure he would have seen it. But wouldn't you need the crank to be spinning also to see if it leaks?
Ya beat me , slow typer as I am In the garage

Anyways
 
Let's just say he left me with a bad taste and if I wait on him to fix this it will be another 6 months. Will see what he says or if he will refund some of my money if I decide to go elsewhere for the fix. But in any case, definitely going to dyno it first before it goes back in.

Why not take it back to the original Builder and have them fix the f*****g leak!
 
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