Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion

[Derwud]

I have 3:23 with a TKO and I am thinking 3:55 or 3:73.. My motor doesn't hate lugging for down low, but it bugs me..

Doing it on Jackstands was a study in Strength and patience...

But 1000% I would do it again.. But, I am swapping my Wagon back to a 4 spd auto from an early Tremec swap.. I want to tow and use the Wagon as more of a daily... Using the A-41 from SST..

 

[Derwud]

For my kit, the driveshaft was included. Did that change?

Yes....

 

[CoronetDarter]

For my kit, the driveshaft was included. Did that change?

Yes, it's not included in the kit price anymore. Give SST the measurements and the will ship one - about $500. Driveline Specialties will shorten and balance for half that.

 

[Kern Dog]

Yes, it's not included in the kit price anymore. Give SST the measurements and the will ship one - about $500. Driveline Specialties will shorten and balance for half that.

Holy crap....I got mine before the changes and my kit was under $6000 with everything.


For all my other drive shaft needs, I've used:
Drive
Line
Of
West
Sacramento.

 

[CoronetDarter]

I had to learn as I went. I saw that the cowl vent had to come out to get the long pin out that both the clutch and brake pedals hinge from.

Right. I got ahead of myself, it has to come out before removing the pivot pin.
I had lightly refurbed the box back in the day so its good to go on reassembly.

The air box uses hex nuts to attach to the three studs. Use a ratchet with an extra long extension, then remove the cable handle from under the dash.

Here's the A/T brake pedal next to the SST. Notice the new pivot pin is almost twice as long.

 

[CoronetDarter]

For all my other drive shaft needs, I've used:
Drive Line Of West Sacramento.

That's them. When I bought the Dart it had a vibration above about 60 mph and they balanced the driveshaft. When I was swapping chucks between cars I had them replace the Dart's U joints so that both cars matched.

 

[CoronetDarter]

The kit comes with a clutch pedal stop (unless you're Greg). It presses in to the original brake cage.

This is the brake and clutch pedal kit. The side bracket is a factory reproduction that bolts to the firewall. After installing the two new pedals and torquing down the pivot nut to 35 ft-lbs, the bracket flange attaches to the original brake cage. Mark the two holes from the side bracket onto the firewall, then remove the side bracket to drill the holes.
It's really important that you very carefully and precisely measure and mark the holes. In retrospect, I should have packed it in for the day once the pedals were in. At this point it was around 4:30 pm, and I'd been in the garage almost constantly since 9:30. I was hot, tired, and just a little exasperated that it had taken this long to get to this point. But, I had set a goal to install the pedals in one day, and so I pushed myself further than I needed to.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

I was going to have Driveline Service in West Sac shorten and rebalance the existing driveshaft. I've used them for the Dart. They do good work and should only take a few days.

Doesn’t the TKX require a different yoke?

 

[CoronetDarter]

During the restoration, I wire wheeled the interior firewall and brushed on POR-15. Afterwards I installed the Fat Mat all the way up the firewall, almost to the bottom of the cowl. With the headers, I wanted to insulate the interior as much as possible. It proved to be a detriment for this install because unbeknownst to me, I covered up the bottom factory divot for attaching a clutch pedal bracket. Getting back to quitting when you're tired; it was getting late and I was pressing myself to finish. Instead, I should have taken the time to cut and peel away the Fat Mat to expose the bottom divot. The top hole of the bracket fit exactly in the upper divot, and the flange was tight against the brake cage, so I assumed the bottom hole was also aligned. Couldn't tell with the Fat Mat in place, should've taken the time to verify. Turns out, I drilled the bottom hole about 1/4" towards the outside of the divot. In other words, the bracket wasn't plumb. In the end it worked and the pedals and bracket are in and everything works fine, but it's not perfect.
Here's what I was looking at. You can't tell from the picture, but the top hole is lined up with the factory divot (actually a protrusion on the interior side).

The lower hole is resting on the Fat Mat.

 

[Kern Dog]

You mean the bracket in the upper right of the picture below?

 

[CoronetDarter]

You mean the bracket in the upper right of the picture below?

View attachment 1532716

Yes. When you were drilling the holes, did you notice any OEM markings on the firewall?

 

[Kern Dog]

That I do not remember.

 

[CoronetDarter]

You can clearly see the two factory divots between the power brake booster and inside fender.

If I could do it all over again, I would align the two holes in the SST side bracket with the factory divots, and bend the flange that attaches to the brake cage if necessary to correctly align the bracket.
With the hole off by about 1/4", I had to cut off 1/3 of the bolt washer to clear the inner fender.

In the end, I finished installing the pedals in one day and everything lines up so it's on to the next step. It just took much longer than it should have.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
What the factory attachment uses..

 

[CoronetDarter]

Doesn’t the TKX require a different yoke?

Yes it does, and I don't see it in the kit. Another item to follow up on.

 

[CoronetDarter]

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
What the factory attachment uses..

I see that in the FSM. The plate helps to strengthen the firewall. I never noticed that stud on manual trans cars before.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/firewall-bare-metal-jpeg.516975/

 

[CoronetDarter]

On the brake pivot assembly for 69 B Bodies, what does the spring do? I have it on my car, but it's so stout I can't get it back on.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Not much, it's supposed to prevent rattles...Clips to the pedal support bracket directly above the dog bone link & hooks in the groove around the dog bone... I use a hook style scribe to get ahold of the spring & pull it into place...

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is what came with my kit.

Looks like I just used plain bolts to mount the clutch pedal bracket.

Since my sound deadener didn't go up as high, I must have seen the dimples you referred to and simply drilled there.

You can see one of the bolts at the end of the blue arrow.