Update parts charger 73
- Thread starter janbanan
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miker01
New Member
have a lot of 73 charger parts what do you need
janbanan
Well-Known Member
Well....I live in Sweden so it isn´t that easy, and I´m not looking for stock parts. To me it seem to be a lot of updates for better handling on chargers but they are all pre 73.
Thanks for asking.
miker01
New Member
check out magnum force
Bb70charger500
Well-Known Member
The 73-74 chargers have a isolated frame mounts under them that is why nothing "fits" my understanding is loose the rubber mounted K frame and get a 71-72 and mount it up you can then use the parts you are wanting . I don't see why you couldn't cut the mounts off and fab new ends on to your old frame ! Nacho is the man on these I'm sure he may have a less crude way of doing this. I don't see any other real difference in the two I'd have to put two frames next to each other to be 100% but I'd say sticking an older K frame under it would be the easiest way good luck
nstyle73
Well-Known Member
There are heavy duty strut rods and tubular UCA's and 11/16" tie rods and LCA reinforcements available for 73. I have all of these. Try Firm Feel and PST. They have sector support brackets, roller bearing conversions etc.
Kernel Sanders
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When looking, don't limit your search to 73-74. BBody front suspension, frame rails & K member are essentially the same and interchangeable from 73-79.
Biggest suspension improvement IMO is going solid (poly is great too) for the K-member and torsion x-member isolation.
Additionally if you can find them larger diameter Anti-sway bar and torsion bars.
Of course replacing all bushings with new and ball joints and tie-rod ends steering rag-joint. would make a huge improvement.
New performance steering box would also make an additional huge improvement over the stock box
I found the hardest replacement bushing to find (that fit correctly) for 74+ B is the strut rod bushing K7085 but you may be lucky and need K7068
PS you cannot use an earlier K as the 73+ has all your upper control arm suspension attached to it instead of the earlier mounted to the frame rail.
Biggest suspension improvement IMO is going solid (poly is great too) for the K-member and torsion x-member isolation.
Additionally if you can find them larger diameter Anti-sway bar and torsion bars.
Of course replacing all bushings with new and ball joints and tie-rod ends steering rag-joint. would make a huge improvement.
New performance steering box would also make an additional huge improvement over the stock box
I found the hardest replacement bushing to find (that fit correctly) for 74+ B is the strut rod bushing K7085 but you may be lucky and need K7068
PS you cannot use an earlier K as the 73+ has all your upper control arm suspension attached to it instead of the earlier mounted to the frame rail.
Kernel Sanders
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Oh forgot:
-Rebuild if required your steering coupler
-Get the large caliper adapters for 11.75" disks (yours will likely be the 'pin' type not the slider type... both type are available)
-Rebuild if required your steering coupler
-Get the large caliper adapters for 11.75" disks (yours will likely be the 'pin' type not the slider type... both type are available)
janbanan
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A lot of good tips, thanks. I have done some of them already. My car is really hard in the front and handles ok but in high speed it moves, kind of scary when overtaking other cars. I think it has something to do with "bumpsteering" In my younger days I used to drive rally, and getting the geometry right was very important.
Kernel Sanders
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when was the last time it was aligned and after what work?
Also what specs were used by the alignment shop? I asked because the original specs are WRONG for the new radial tires.
Use these specs:
Also what specs were used by the alignment shop? I asked because the original specs are WRONG for the new radial tires.
Use these specs:
Kernel Sanders
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Talking about bumpsteer, if you have all original unmodified suspension and no accidents there really shouldn't be any bumpsteer unless... check closely your idler arm for any play and replace if there is any... better check those lower pivot bushings too
janbanan
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Yes, you have a point there, I have overhauled my front end but I haven´t done a proper alignment yet. I have ordered a digital inclinometer on Ebay, and will try to do it myself. Camber and toe in is easy(I think) but how to check Caster I don´t know. I have been reading on this forum it is difficult to get the proper Caster so I will maximize all I can get. That is the reason I was looking for a adjustable strut rod.
Thanks for the spec I will try to get as close as possible.
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