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383 build

69clone

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So I'm building a 383 for my street/strip 69' roadrunner clone and I'm just wondering where to go from here. It's a fresh 68' 383HP, forged crank, .030 KB flat top, 906 heads. I'm planning on the edlebrock RPM intake and some 1 7/8 headers. What else should I do to see 400-450hp? :headbang:

Thanks,
~Nick
 
Performance 101, I hope you had some good quuality strong rod bolts installed when you did the short blocks bottom end... 1st & foremost find a qualty machine shop that is familiar with big block Mopars, not just a local yokal... A quality matching 0.500"+ camshaft, lifters, push-rods, rockers, springs, retainers, locks & seals, a quality double roller gear set & chain, trust cam button, quality harmonic ballancer, a hotter ignition & coil, good low OHM resistance plug wires, quality gaskets {especially head gaskets}, some quality cylinder head work like {porting & multi-angle race valve job flowing at 250+cfm minimum, to achieve 500hp}, or just buy a good set of aluminum heads that will flow that, out of the box & save some weight & money in the long run, then gasket match & port the intake to match the ported &/or aluminum cylinder heads, a quality oil pump & oil pan with a windage tray, a good flowing 750cfm-850cfm Holley Hp, Quick-fuel or Pro-Form Holley type carburetor, a bunch of carburetor tunnig parts {50cc accel. pumps, asorted larger jetts, squirters, power-valves, gaskets, etc.} a quality fuel pump & system with 3/8" #6 or larger fuel lines, bypass style regulator, 3/8" or larger fuel tank pick-up & filters {fuel supply of a minimum100+gpm flowing}, a good free flowing 2.5"-3" mandrel bent exhaust w/H pipe or X-pipe & K&N or equal gauze type air cleaner... Lots of tuning... Buy a book "Factory Service Manual" for your specific make & model of car & the other books like SA Design or HP-Books, "How to Build a Big Block Mopar Wedge" or Mopar Performance "Mopar Engines 9th edition" #P5249704, Holley tunning book "How to tune a Holley Carburetor"... then call Mancini Racing tech line @ 586-790-4100, they won't steer you wrong...
 
Performance 101, I hope you had some good quuality strong rod bolts installed when you did the short blocks bottom end... 1st & foremost find a qualty machine shop that is familiar with big block Mopars, not just a local yokal... A quality matching 0.500"+ camshaft, lifters, push-rods, rockers, springs, retainers, locks & seals, a quality double roller gear set & chain, trust cam button, quality harmonic ballancer, a hotter ignition & coil, good low OHM resistance plug wires, quality gaskets {especially head gaskets}, some quality cylinder head work like {porting & multi-angle race valve job flowing at 250+cfm minimum, to achieve 500hp}, or just buy a good set of aluminum heads that will flow that, out of the box & save some weight & money in the long run, then gasket match & port the intake to match the ported &/or aluminum cylinder heads, a quality oil pump & oil pan with a windage tray, a good flowing 750cfm-850cfm Holley Hp, Quick-fuel or Pro-Form Holley type carburetor, a bunch of carburetor tunnig parts {50cc accel. pumps, asorted larger jetts, squirters, power-valves, gaskets, etc.} a quality fuel pump & system with 3/8" #6 or larger fuel lines, bypass style regulator, 3/8" or larger fuel tank pick-up & filters {fuel supply of a minimum100+gpm flowing}, a good free flowing 2.5"-3" mandrel bent exhaust w/H pipe or X-pipe & K&N or equal gauze type air cleaner... Lots of tuning... Buy a book "Factory Service Manual" for your specific make & model of car & the other books like SA Design or HP-Books, "How to Build a Big Block Mopar Wedge" or Mopar Performance "Mopar Engines 9th edition" #P5249704, Holley tunning book "How to tune a Holley Carburetor"... then call Mancini Racing tech line @ 586-790-4100, they won't steer you wrong...

Thanks for all the info budnick, I bought the engine already rebuilt but we wanted to tear it down to make sure everything was done right. Is there anyway to tell If they are strong bolts? I also one of those books but they seem to skip the 383s and focus on 400's up.
 
The 383ci has weaker main webs than the 400's, you could add a girdle that will help the bottom end strength some, if they use ARP or other quality rod bolts, they will have some kind of identification marking on them usually, the bolts & treads are pressure formed/rolled also, instead of cut with a die, less stretch & much stronger... The BB-383 is often overlooked, you can make decent power, most builders like the 400ci block for the added bore size 4.34" stock compared to 4.25" 383 & stronger main webbing {The 400 is the best of the wedge engines}, lots of stroker combos in a slightly lighter, narrower & shorter package, than the RB 413-426-440 block, you can easily & safely build a 500+hp combo with the 383ci block, I have had quite a few, from a 3.575" {+0.200" steel 383 forged} stroker 405+ci, to a 3.75" {440 forged crank} stroker 426+ci, to a 4.15" stroker 470+ci to 4.25" forged or Billet stroker crank w/482+ci 800hp stroker combos, that lived just fine, even with N20 or Blowers, with block girdles, good billet main caps, quality studs everywhere, aftermarket oil pump, oil pans & oiling systems, good ported aluminum & ported max-wedge heads & quality valve train components... It's just easier to do it with a larger bore & stronger block...
 
The 383ci has weaker main webs than the 400's, you could add a girdle that will help the bottom end strength some, if they use ARP or other quality rod bolts, they will have some kind of identification marking on them usually, the bolts & treads are pressure formed/rolled also, instead of cut with a die, less stretch & much stronger... The BB-383 is often overlooked, you can make decent power, most builders like the 400ci block for the added bore size 4.34" stock compared to 4.25" 383 & stronger main webbing {The 400 is the best of the wedge engines}, lots of stroker combos in a slightly lighter, narrower & shorter package, than the RB 413-426-440 block, you can easily & safely build a 500+hp combo with the 383ci block, I have had quite a few, from a 3.575" {+0.200" steel 383 forged} stroker 405+ci, to a 3.75" {440 forged crank} stroker 426+ci, to a 4.15" stroker 470+ci to 4.25" forged or Billet stroker crank w/482+ci 800hp stroker combos, that lived just fine, even with N20 or Blowers, with block girdles, good billet main caps, quality studs everywhere, aftermarket oil pump, oil pans & oiling systems, good ported aluminum & ported max-wedge heads & quality valve train components... It's just easier to do it with a larger bore & stronger block...
Thanks for the info!
I checked out the rod bolt heads (If I was looking at the right bolts) appear to have a capitol N on them. If it is a big deal I have no problem spending 10 bucks on ARP bolts.

Just curious since you've done quite a few. How much work is involved in swapping a 440 crank in? Would I just need a 440 crank ground down and new rods? Also besides picking up 43ci is the potential gains worth it?
 
It's not really a beginner build... But it can easily be done, You will 1st need to find a "great MOPAR knowledgeable machinist" &/or just buy a quality stroker kit, ready to be inspected, clearances ground, checked, cleaned & installed, correctly... The RB/413-426-440 Mains Journals need to be turned down to BB/383-400 specs, also the counter weights need to be turned down to 7.2" diameter or smaller diameter {I always go to 7.125", just make for a lighter crank & more clearances}, then possibly some block notching at the bore bottoms, depending on connecting rod selections, pistons compression height to match the rod length & bore size/compression you choose/need, internal balancing, the cost is well worth it for 43+ci, you get lots more needed torque, with 3/8" more stroke... But if your going to do that, it is most cost effective to just buy a quality "stroker rotating assembly kit", with rods, pistons, rings, 3.75"/440 crankshaft already turned/ground & internal balanced, w/bearings etc., from Mancini Racing or 440source or something along those lines, instead of piece mealing it, it's better to do it with a BB-400 block, it's another 17+ci's, making it a 60+ci improvement 443-456ci depending on the bore size, but the BB-383 block will work just fine too @ 426-437ci... Cubic Inches formula is; Bore inches x Bore x Stroke inches x # of cylinders x .7854 = total Cubic Inches
 
It's not really a beginner build... But it can easily be done, You will 1st need to find a "great MOPAR knowledgeable machinist" &/or just buy a quality stroker kit, ready to be inspected, clearances ground, checked, cleaned & installed, correctly... The RB/413-426-440 Mains Journals need to be turned down to BB/383-400 specs, also the counter weights need to be turned down to 7.2" diameter or smaller diameter {I always go to 7.125", just make for a lighter crank & more clearances}, then possibly some block notching at the bore bottoms, depending on connecting rod selections, pistons compression height to match the rod length & bore size/compression you choose/need, internal balancing, the cost is well worth it for 43+ci, you get lots more needed torque, with 3/8" more stroke... But if your going to do that, it is most cost effective to just buy a quality "stroker rotating assembly kit", with rods, pistons, rings, 3.75"/440 crankshaft already turned/ground & internal balanced, w/bearings etc., from Mancini Racing or 440source or something along those lines, instead of piece mealing it, it's better to do it with a BB-400 block, it's another 17+ci's, making it a 60+ci improvement 443-456ci depending on the bore size, but the BB-383 block will work just fine too @ 426-437ci... Cubic Inches formula is; Bore inches x Bore x Stroke inches x # of cylinders x .7854 = total Cubic Inches

Alright...yeah, I think if I'm going to build a stroker I rather wait til I find a 400 (especially since all of the 440source kits cost the same) and build something big later down the road. Luckily for me I can reuse what I buy for this 383 on a 400.

As far as this 383 goes have you built any good stock strokes? I see stuff all over the place from a muscle mag article gaining 117 hp with simple upgrades (headers,cam, intake head work) to another article with a similar build gaining only 60hp...
From what I have learned the RPM performer intake is the way to go on this street/strip build, as well as 1 7/8 headers, but everything else seems to be a lot of opinions on a lot of different things.

I also looked into a good mopar machine shop as you suggested and it looks like their is a place not far from here who claim to build mopars I'll have to stop by next time I'm in the area.
 
Again Performance 101; Still the same concept as I stated above, it's just smaller CI displacement... The 383 can make 500+ hp with good flowing cylinder heads {any Mopar wedge engine will benefit from better flowing cylinder heads, they are the weak/choke point, in stock configuration, you can make as much as 2.06hp/per/CFM of flow &/or about 1.5hp per/ci, with the right cylinder head combo N/A on pump gasoline}, the right compression, the proper camshaft & valve train components, aluminum 4bbl intake {dual plane for the street &/or street/strip, or a single plane with a 1"-2" spacer for the drag strip} & "Holley type" Quickfuels or Proform {or whom evers HP Holley Carb} carburetor 750cfm or larger depending on your build CI's, size of heads & flow needs, a quality fuel pump {preferably a quality electric pump (using a relay) with a bypass style regulator} regulator & 4-10 micron cleanable filters, that can flow 7psi @ 120+gpm free flowing, also a K&N Xtreme air filter/cleaner, 3/8" &/or #6 AN minimum fuel line & pick-up & 1-7/8" long tube headers with 2.5"-3" mandrel bent exhaust {like Flowmaster or Dynomax mufflers} with either a H or X pipe all properly sized & suited for you purpose or intended useage... I would suggest buying a very good set of "aluminum" 84cc combustion chamber or smaller heads, to bump the compression up {prefreably with near 11:1 flat top pistons &/or near Zero-deck hieght w/valve reliefs}, that will flow 290+cfm @ 0.600" gross camshaft lift, at a minimum, cylinder heads are the single most important part of you engine build don't skimp there, I can not emphasize this enough, I would suggest you either call or check out the websites of any of the, Mancini Racing for most any Mopar Performance or Racing part, to complete engines & drive train components, {I would suggest solid lifter or full roller with adjustable 1.6:1 rockers, for the 500+hp level minimum}, Comp Cams, Lunati, Isky or even Crane Cams for camshaft component advise for your specific needs & Edelbrock or Indy Cylinder Heads or Mopar performance, for cylinder head your choices, LaRoy Engines out of Challis, Idaho (Jim & Cody), for your Head Porting work, if you don't already buy the heads ported from either Mancini or Indy {which is really the best way to go}... Anything you buy for the 383 build except maybe the camshaft {it still could be OK too, but the cam needs, are based on your complete combo}, can be used in your 400 stroker build at a latter date...
 
Budnicks,

You usin' spell check? I've noticed that the spelling is getting excellent!
 
Yep

Budnicks,

You usin' spell check? I've noticed that the spelling is getting excellent!

:icon_fU: Thanks IQ52...Ha ha, LOL... Yep Spell check is the bomb...LOL... for us dumb a$$e$ that had to learn Phonics, in the crappy public schools in the 60's & 70's, it seems like I struggle still to this day, but not as bad as I use to though, you would think someone who got thru college could spell atleast... See you can teach an Old Dog New tricks after all... :headbang: Now I use it to proof most my posts, so I don't look like as much of a dumb a$$... Feel free to chime in here any time IQ52, with your vast knowledge, been a long time I have not heard from you, on here or other sites lately...
 
Just curious, but how did you arrive at 400-450 HP as the magic solution? Do you have a particular goal in mind like a 13 sec car? 12 sec car? Back in the 80's I had my 68 383 RR running mid 13's on street tires and it was a hoot. And the best part it was a totally stock cast piston short block with pocket ported 915 heads and a .465" / 280 108 LC Isky cam.
 
Again Performance 101; Still the same concept as I stated above, it's just smaller CI displacement... The 383 can make 500+ hp with good flowing cylinder heads {any Mopar wedge engine will benefit from better flowing cylinder heads, they are the weak/choke point, in stock configuration, you can make as much as 2.06hp/per/CFM of flow &/or about 1.5hp per/ci, with the right cylinder head combo N/A on pump gasoline}, the right compression, the proper camshaft & valve train components, aluminum 4bbl intake {dual plane for the street &/or street/strip, or a single plane with a 1"-2" spacer for the drag strip} & "Holley type" Quickfuels or Proform {or whom evers HP Holley Carb} carburetor 750cfm or larger depending on your build CI's, size of heads & flow needs, a quality fuel pump {preferably a quality electric pump (using a relay) with a bypass style regulator} regulator & 4-10 micron cleanable filters, that can flow 7psi @ 120+gpm free flowing, also a K&N Xtreme air filter/cleaner, 3/8" &/or #6 AN minimum fuel line & pick-up & 1-7/8" long tube headers with 2.5"-3" mandrel bent exhaust {like Flowmaster or Dynomax mufflers} with either a H or X pipe all properly sized & suited for you purpose or intended useage... I would suggest buying a very good set of "aluminum" 84cc combustion chamber or smaller heads, to bump the compression up {prefreably with near 11:1 flat top pistons &/or near Zero-deck hieght w/valve reliefs}, that will flow 290+cfm @ 0.600" gross camshaft lift, at a minimum, cylinder heads are the single most important part of you engine build don't skimp there, I can not emphasize this enough, I would suggest you either call or check out the websites of any of the, Mancini Racing for most any Mopar Performance or Racing part, to complete engines & drive train components, {I would suggest solid lifter or full roller with adjustable 1.6:1 rockers, for the 500+hp level minimum}, Comp Cams, Lunati, Isky or even Crane Cams for camshaft component advise for your specific needs & Edelbrock or Indy Cylinder Heads or Mopar performance, for cylinder head your choices, LaRoy Engines out of Challis, Idaho (Jim & Cody), for your Head Porting work, if you don't already buy the heads ported from either Mancini or Indy {which is really the best way to go}... Anything you buy for the 383 build except maybe the camshaft {it still could be OK too, but the cam needs, are based on your complete combo}, can be used in your 400 stroker build at a latter date...

Thanks, sorry to be bugging you with all the questions just sounds like you know what to do. I will check those guys out and let you know what I find or decide on.


Just curious, but how did you arrive at 400-450 HP as the magic solution? Do you have a particular goal in mind like a 13 sec car? 12 sec car? Back in the 80's I had my 68 383 RR running mid 13's on street tires and it was a hoot. And the best part it was a totally stock cast piston short block with pocket ported 915 heads and a .465" / 280 108 LC Isky cam.

Thanks Meep,
The 400-450hp goal is really because I had been told that was about as much as I could get out of a street friendly 383... Now after the great info Budnick as given me I see that isn't always the case. I would love to see low 12's but I know that is more like 500hp... If it's possible and in my budget thats great otherwise I'll just go as fast as I can and still drive it to school and work. Mainly focusing on the engine right now than the converter, gears and slicks. Maybe I should just throw a supercharger on and call it a day:eusa_think:
 
If you want the best of both worlds, meaning good drivability and blazing acceleration, you can go with N2O or build a turbo EFI motor. I have a buddy in KC that has a street driven 1980 Zephyr wagon with a turbo 351. The car has the AOD auto tranny and 3.31 gears I think, gets 15 MPG or better on the HWY and so far has run a best of 10.03 @ 136. That pass might have been on E85 with a ton of boost, but on gas it was running mid to high 10's @ 126 or so. He has suggested to me many times that I should go that route with one of my cars, and with 440 inches I can easily expect a 9 second pass. See for yourself -
http://www.clickclickracing.com/for...tation-Wagon-Silverfox-amp-Dirty-Dog-Equipped
 
Mean streets of Concord

Just curious, but how did you arrive at 400-450 HP as the magic solution? Do you have a particular goal in mind like a 13 sec car? 12 sec car? Back in the 80's I had my 68 383 RR running mid 13's on street tires and it was a hoot. And the best part it was a totally stock cast piston short block with pocket ported 915 heads and a .465" / 280 108 LC Isky cam.

Meeps- Yep & I'll bet it was probably in them "cool old days", on the mean streets of Concord Ca.... :headbang: yep easy peasy mid 13's, :argue: with headers, the old stock 2-1/4" exhaust w/turbo mufflers, small cam w/bucket-t, bucket-t, bucket-t, bucket-t {camshaft sound at idle} & Torker intake &/or carburetor change, probably a "Chrome Moroso air cleaner & valve covers...LOL... :eusa_think: Probably also on either E.T. or U.S. Slotted Mags or Crager SS/T's w/N50/15's or w/G/50/14's bias-ply tires or even BFG Radial TA's if you had a decent job...
 
If you want the best of both worlds, meaning good drivability and blazing acceleration, you can go with N2O or build a turbo EFI motor. I have a buddy in KC that has a street driven 1980 Zephyr wagon with a turbo 351. The car has the AOD auto tranny and 3.31 gears I think, gets 15 MPG or better on the HWY and so far has run a best of 10.03 @ 136. That pass might have been on E85 with a ton of boost, but on gas it was running mid to high 10's @ 126 or so. He has suggested to me many times that I should go that route with one of my cars, and with 440 inches I can easily expect a 9 second pass. See for yourself -
http://www.clickclickracing.com/for...tation-Wagon-Silverfox-amp-Dirty-Dog-Equipped

Thanks, thats a pretty sweet wagon. I have thought about power-adders but I thought KB pistons were not such a good idea for nos or boost? I thought about it though. I've just heard that tuning has got to be perfect or it could cause detonation.
 
Yeah, that's true. If you want to pound on it repeatedly with N2O or boost then you should get forged pistons.

For a normally aspirated 383 I would get as much compression as you can, run a 108 LC cam and deep rear end gears. The tighter LC will produce more torque (good for the smaller engine) and the extra duration will move the power peak up so the deep gears are a must for optimum 1/4 mile performance. Plan on making power in the 6000-6500 RPM range. For optimum high RPM performance you will need to run good gas too, so plan on mixing at the track. It will run like a two stroke!
 
Meeps- Yep & I'll bet it was probably in them "cool old days", on the mean streets of Concord Ca.... :headbang: yep easy peasy mid 13's, :argue: with headers, the old stock 2-1/4" exhaust w/turbo mufflers, small cam w/bucket-t, bucket-t, bucket-t, bucket-t {camshaft sound at idle} & Torker intake &/or carburetor change, probably a "Chrome Moroso air cleaner & valve covers...LOL... :eusa_think: Probably also on either E.T. or U.S. Slotted Mags or Crager SS/T's w/N50/15's or w/G/50/14's bias-ply tires or even BFG Radial TA's if you had a decent job...


You pegged it! I mean really... Concord in the 80's. Check. 2-1/4 exhaust with turn downs. Check. Torker intake with Holley. Yep. Headers. Of course. Chrome Moroso valve cover. A must! ...Stock RR air cleaner though. Dont' forget the Mallory dual point. And I had the slot mags with G 60 14 (I think) Big O bias ply tires.

And as a matter of fact, here it is "back in the day".
 

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Yeah, that's true. If you want to pound on it repeatedly with N2O or boost then you should get forged pistons.

For a normally aspirated 383 I would get as much compression as you can, run a 108 LC cam and deep rear end gears. The tighter LC will produce more torque (good for the smaller engine) and the extra duration will move the power peak up so the deep gears are a must for optimum 1/4 mile performance. Plan on making power in the 6000-6500 RPM range. For optimum high RPM performance you will need to run good gas too, so plan on mixing at the track. It will run like a two stroke!

Thats what I'm thinking... I figured with a 8 3/4 rear I could go from street gears to race gears pretty quick. What do you suggest to raise the CR? Get the 84cc aluminum heads? Just looking for ideas...
btw nice car
 
Thats what I'm thinking... I figured with a 8 3/4 rear I could go from street gears to race gears pretty quick. What do you suggest to raise the CR? Get the 84cc aluminum heads? Just looking for ideas...
btw nice car

Or the smaller 75cc E-Street Edelbrock heads $780 from Summit Racing, they are back ordered but will ship when ready, then change spring & what ever fro your spicific camshaft needs...
 
As far as the header tube size being mentioned here, 1 7/8", what would be the effect of going 1 3/4"? The reason I asked is because I thought I read somewhere that for the 383 the 1 3/4" tubed headers will actually give you a little bit more torque than the larger ones.
 
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