Idler arm advice

[70ozziecharger]

Guys, I need some advice on my idler arm for a 70 Charger. Just purchased a kit which included the new idler arm. My factory one has washers each end with a recessed cup that I think, rotates on the bush as you turn the steering? The new one has solid washers. Once tightened on the K frame, do they just move metal on metal in the K frame bracket? Also the new arm is not as long where the bush is and moves vertically when in the bracket?
Appreciate any comments.
Thanks.

 

[RussT Plymouths]

It's very important to reuse the cup washer. It bottoms against the inner steel sleeve, allowing the bolt to properly tighten without crushing the ends on the rubber bushing, and locking the inner sleeve from turning. It's the rubber that stretches and twists, not the inner sleeve moving, when steering the car. That said, make sure the steering is centered straight forward before tightening the bolt, centering the rubber bushing in its movement. If it's not, it can introduce a slight steering pull, or reduce the life of the rubber bushing by it being over stretched.

Use the flat washer to shim the bushing tight in the bracket, above or below to level the center link with the frame.

 

[70ozziecharger]

It's very important to reuse the cup washer. It bottoms against the inner steel sleeve, allowing the bolt to properly tighten without crushing the ends on the rubber bushing, and locking the inner sleeve from turning. It's the rubber that stretches and twists, not the inner sleeve moving, when steering the car. That said, make sure the steering is centered straight forward before tightening the bolt, centering the rubber bushing in its movement. If it's not, it can introduce a slight steering pull, or reduce the life of the rubber bushing by it being over stretched.

Use the flat washer to shim the bushing tight in the bracket, above or below to level the center link with the frame.

Thanks, the new one has the steel washers either end but they don’t turn like the ones on the old arm? Maybe the old one is just loose from years of work. Are you saying it’s ok to use the new one, just shim on the top or bottom to centralise it?

 

[RussT Plymouths]

Are you saying it’s ok to use the new one, just shim on the top or bottom to centralise it?

Yes. When I look at the new idler arm again, I can see the new black cup washer is in place.

 

[70ozziecharger]

Yes. When I look at the new idler arm again, I can see the new black cup washer is in place.

Thanks mate for the help, much appreciated.

 

[pioneer61]

It's very important to reuse the cup washer. It bottoms against the inner steel sleeve, allowing the bolt to properly tighten without crushing the ends on the rubber bushing, and locking the inner sleeve from turning. It's the rubber that stretches and twists, not the inner sleeve moving, when steering the car. That said, make sure the steering is centered straight forward before tightening the bolt, centering the rubber bushing in its movement. If it's not, it can introduce a slight steering pull, or reduce the life of the rubber bushing by it being over stretched.

Use the flat washer to shim the bushing tight in the bracket, above or below to level the center link with the frame.

i just encountered this exact issue today. Are you saying the cup washer is removable from the original? I was about to pty on mine but wasn't sure how to proceed without ruining it.

 

[RussT Plymouths]

I've reused old cup washers, on idler arms and on upper A-arm bushings. I've never had any issues getting one off it I wanted it. If the new part doesn't have it, either because they didn't include it, or it was lost or misplaced, it's important to be there so you can properly tighten the through bolt and not destroy the rubber.

 

[pioneer61]

I was able to remove it the other day but found that the part of the cup washer that fits inside the thru bolt shaft is too wide for the Moog part.