Hey folks

[Radiant288]

Hey folks, joined here to get advice on my new Belvedere, i might just be the youngest member on here, buying my first classic at 16 years old. The Belvedere has been sitting about 3 years, and I just got it running today. I bought it from the original owner for $2700. It’s a 318, factory a/c car. 90k original miles- not rolled over. I’ll list my issues and requested tips below.

I could use belt sizes, and maybe a diagram I don’t have the owners manual. All the belts are extremely loose and dry rotted.

3 wheels are completely seized, and the brake pedal is rock solid, no movement.

The radiator is not building pressure, I can take the cap off with it hot. But I have hot heat in the car, so coolant is flowing through the heater core.

I have no temp gauge or gas gauge, neither have moved at all.

 

[Kern Dog]

Welcome to the forum.
First up, thank you for introducing yourself rather than just jumping in and asking for help. Some people are not as considerate.
You obviously paid attention in school because your writing skills are great. That isn't a strict requirement but it sure makes reading your posts a lot easier.
You wrote:

"I could use belt sizes, and maybe a diagram I don’t have the owners manual. All the belts are extremely loose and dry rotted.

3 wheels are completely seized, and the brake pedal is rock solid, no movement.

The radiator is not building pressure, I can take the cap off with it hot. But I have hot heat in the car, so coolant is flowing through the heater core.

I have no temp gauge or gas gauge, neither have moved at all."

First, there are listings on Rock Auto for fan belts. They may be able to help. www.RockAuto.com
The reason that the wheels are seized is likely because the brakes have leaked fluid and left crust and rust inside the drums. These will need to be rebuilt. The brake pedal is likely stuck for the same reason.....rust had "frozen" it in place. Lucky for you, all the parts you'd need are readily available.
If the radiator and heater core are not leaking, you may just have a defective radiator cap.
The gas gauge may work, it is probably the sending unit in the gas tank that has failed. They get rusty. The float that moves up and down with the level of the gas often gets small holes in it over time and it falls to the bottom of the tank and stays there.
The temperature gauge relies on a small sending unit located in the intake manifold. They usually don't fail. It is often an issue with the gauge itself when they don't move.
Any more questions? I'm feeling smart today.....

 

[PlymCrazy]

Good evening and welcome to FBBO. That first picture looks like something out of a movie. Very nice shot. And I love your car btw.

How long had it been sitting prior to you getting it running recently? And congratulations on getting it running!

And you can download a digital copy of the factory service manual here…

MyMopar

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

North

That car looks to be in pretty good shape. Just needs some TLC !
Great find

 

[HD539]

Welcome from Washington State.

 

[khryslerkid]

 

[65Bel]

Welcome from Illinois!! Congratulations on acquiring your first car. Trust you'll be checking/replacing the tires and all rubber hoses plus changing all fluids along with those new belts.

 

[3sloppydogs]

welcome from the PDR of Maryland

 

[moparedtn]

Get yourself a factory service manual - pronto!
Life gets a lot easier from there...

 

[Tinker67]

Welcome from VA. Nice find congratulations. Get that FSM for yourself, and remember do "One Thing at a Time" or you'll get yourself overwhelmed.

 

[Hey-O]

Welcome from Missouri!!

 

[Big Bad Dad]

The radiator is not building pressure, I can take the cap off with it hot. But I have hot heat in the car, so coolant is flowing through the heater core.

NEVER! EVER! DO THIS! You could have been seriously scalded. I had a friend open a cap on a hot radiator when I was in high school. He ended up badly burned and with permanent scars. Never pop the radiator cap on a car until it is completely cooled down. You dodged a bullet this time. Lucky for you at 16, so please take this advice.

 

[ckessel]

Welcome from the left coast. You should be able to score an owners manual, either original or reproduction easy enough through vendors. With that I and many others recommend you also get a factory service manual. Also can be had like the owners one. Don't waste your time and money on purchasing anything else but the factory one for your needs. Manuals like Clymers, Chilton, Haynes etc cover SOME stuff but not ALL like the FSM.

 

[oldbee]

Welcome aboard from Ohio.

 

[64fury74charger]

Welcome aboard from the Pacific Northwest. You will find tons of information and first hand experience here to help guide you through this journey. Thank you for posting pictures and showing the desire to bring your piece of history back and give it a new opportunity to shine.

Working on any vehicle is a great way to learn all about that car and taking the time to research will save lots of potential problems along the way. Plenty of patience and lots and lots of pictures will be your best friend. I recommend making a picture catalog of the entire car as it sits right now to document how everything is put together because that’s what you want to have to help you get this car where you want it to be. Remember to laugh every day. This site lives for pictures. Thank you again for taking care of another little piece of history.

 

[mr. b]

welcome to FBBO from Pa

 

[1969VAGTX]

Welcome from Fredericksburg, VA. Great find! Let the project begin.

 

[Don Frelier]

Welcome from NY

 

[Budnicks]

Welcome to FBBO

 

[Fran Blacker]

Welcome from CT. You can download a service manual at mymopar.com the link on bottom will take you service manuals. SM's are tought to use on a phone. See if there are numbers on the belts and or remove them And take them to parts store and have them measured. I'd buy them a 1/2" shorter if they don't get numbers off them. Nothing against RA just if you need to return them.
Service Manuals – MyMopar