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Rust Inhibitor/Encapsulation

PlagueOfBadgers

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I am trying to find a proven product that has work for you.
I want to, will be sealing an entire frame and body. I do plan on using an epoxy primer coat over the sealer then the final paint color and clear applied. I do not want to spend a ton of hours and money prepping the vehicle just to have the sealer fail.
Everything is being brought down to bare metal. The frame will only go so far so there will be a bit of rust left. Even with taking it down to bare metal there is still a chance of unseen rust not completely removed on the body as well.
The frame and underside of the vehicle will also be painted in matching colors. No black on the underside.

Mastercoat Silver Permanent Rust Sealer is harder to purchase than a ride on a NASA rocket at this point. Every product they offer is out of stock and the new order fill dates come and go with no new products available.
I did a lot of research and Mastercoat product(s) was the fit I was looking for but its impossible to get. I do not want to use PRO15 due to the mutable reviews and testes done that shows PRO15 holds moister under to coating causing rust to come back.
Eastwood offers such products but, I cannot find an honest review. It always leads back to an Eastwood employee saying how good it is.

Any suggestions, experiences and proven results on your vehicles sealers is much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, PoB.
 
Try this.

And this for converters.

Yup, just the other night I found and viewed these videos. Those videos are packed with information and the reason I hit a brick wall now. I felt Mastercoat silver was going to be my best option. Now Mastercoat is impossible to purchase. I know there is no stop all rust products out there. Just looking to see what has been used on members vehicles and see what their results are.
 
I watched that pair of vids after I bought and used some of the POR15. I'll use the rest up on the interior sheetmetal and the roadside. After watching that, I want to use the Mastercoat in the engine bay when it's time. The clear sounds like the bomb too. Good thing I'm not ready for any coating right now.
 
You must have the car on a rotisserie already? If so, and if it was me, I would be sand blasting the underside and then spraying epoxy primer. Why cover up rust with inferior products when it can be removed? That being said, several years ago I used the silver Rust Bullet on a cab corner patch panel I made on my plow truck, and it is holding up fairly well. Whatever you do, stay away from POR.
 
Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer for rust that can't be removed.
It works.
I have no experience with things the claim to "encapsulate" rust.
But I do with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.
It works.
I've noted that some rust converters are even water based.
That just sounds bad to me.
 
I am in the same boat, there are definitely places I will not get all the rust out.

I have used Rust-oleum Rusty Metal Primer and it has held up without issues, however it has not been subjected to the outside weather for extended periods.

I bought multiple cans of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, as at the time it was the only one that claimed it could be put over rust, bare metal, and painted surfaces.

I used up 4 of the 6 cans, always top coating with Rust-oleum Paint & Primer in 1.
Never had an issue.
I did the k-frame on my a-body this way years ago, drive it all the time, rain or shine, don't wash it much, no signs of rust at all.

I took can #5 and did the floors in another car just a few months ago, did not top coat, just laid the carpet over it.
A few months ago I left the windows down in the rain, and I never pulled the carpet when it got wet, just let the car air out on a few days in the hot sun.
Yesterday pulled the carpet because the heater core went, found a small patch of rust were I had welded in a patch to the floor.
This rust was not due to the antifreeze, it had not made it that far (62 Valiant, heater core is basically in the engine bay).

I think I probably did not get into the weld seam good enough, and did not top coat, it was the inside of the floor, how could it get wet enough to rust?

I guess the lesson on Eastwood, or any brand, make sure you have full coverage, make sure any scale is gone so you can get full coverage, and topcoat asap (they recommend within 2 hrs iirc).
 
I learned that (some) epoxy primers are not compatible with rust converters because they leave an acid film. So what ever you use make sure there are no compatibility issues. I used an alkyd base primer over Corroseal rust converter on the interior sheet metal on my RR. there are many areas in there that are difficult at best to get to. I put on both products with brushes reaching inside everywhere I could after sanding, wire brushing off surface rust. Still looks good but it has been only 5 months inside my shop. The car will never be out in anything but sunny weather again anyway, as long as I am alive.
 
Corroseal. Thin enough to spray into cavities. Converts rust. I used this on bumper brackets, frame, inside doors, window pockets, seat frames. Where I could, I top coated with epoxy or Rust Bullet. No issues after 8 years.
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Corroseal and Rust Bullet, can these be brushed on?

I have pitting on exterior panels, as well as in sections where the stainless trim is inset into the quarter.
 
Used Bed liner from Rustoleum on underside of car and in fender wheels. Bought a spray gun from Eastwood with two wands one 360 and the other 180 fan spray. It had to be thinned so it would spray and did not leave a heavy grit like sandpaper. Very happy with it. I sprayed the floor pans and trunk pan as well. To revert rust use one part Vinegar and three parts waters. Cheap and dose the job. Just have to clean with water then when dry paint it. You will know when the rust is reverted it will turn black. Also use the Rustoleum in spray can for rust. Epoxy paint on shell and body parts. But must paint before its dry's hard or you have to abate it. Good luck on the project. Oh, even sprayed inside my doors and frame rails with the bed liner. Makes a great sound deadener. A good video of this is Pete my friend Pete. On SWRNC. I watched a ton of his videos on U tube.
 
On my 65 I've been doing a lot of metal work/fabrication. SFC'c, mini tubs, spring boxes, floor panels etc. After I've cut the basic material out, form it up if sheetmetal, fit it up if other, I wipe it down with Acetone, hit it with abrasives, coat it with Ospho, punch any spot weld holes that will be needed, weld together pieces. After they get welded, I jet in the Eastwood inner frame coating into the seams. I cut off one of the multi angle nozzles and put a 16ga butt connector into one end with the portion that sticks out partially crimped. Makes a nice jet nozzle. I'll jet into the seams from both sides, let it dry then apply other coating. It does make a mess so I put plenty of paper down, mask etc to contain the drips.

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I've never used por-15, although I know a few people who have over the years, and I've never heard a negative opinion of the product. Actually, I'd heard very positives. I understand you cannot apply it on bare metal, but must be applied on dry, rusted metal ( Paint-Over-Rust ) for it to perform satisfactorily.
 
Corroseal and Rust Bullet, can these be brushed on?

I have pitting on exterior panels, as well as in sections where the stainless trim is inset into the quarter.
Both are brushed on.
 
I've never used por-15, although I know a few people who have over the years, and I've never heard a negative opinion of the product. Actually, I'd heard very positives. I understand you cannot apply it on bare metal, but must be applied on dry, rusted metal ( Paint-Over-Rust ) for it to perform satisfactorily.
I've used por15 once on rusty interior panels. It came off in sheets a few months later. It will stick to your hands for a month, though. Rust Bullet over surface rusted rails is still rock solid.
 
I can drive one town over and go to the mom and pop auto store and get Chassis Saver paint.
Anyone tried this one?
I am not doing a car, but a few sections on my tow rig that were line-x'd came off in a small sheet on the side of the frame rail and I want to cover them up again as this is WI.
Frame is "clean" in that it is not scaly rust, but I don;t want to, nor can I really, remove all rust in this instance so I wanted to try something I could apply with a brush to touch up.

I looked at POR15 and they suggest the rust converter they sell and then apply the paint. But then they also say it is not UV resistant, so you have to apply a UV resist top coat of some type. That was all news to me, never used to advertise that, but it is right on their web page now. Too many products and bother for me forwhat I want to do. Chassis Saver from what the immense wisdom of the internet says works good and is simply "wire brush, wipe, paint".
But I trust B-bodies only more then the internet in general :)
 
I've never used por-15, although I know a few people who have over the years, and I've never heard a negative opinion of the product. Actually, I'd heard very positives. I understand you cannot apply it on bare metal, but must be applied on dry, rusted metal ( Paint-Over-Rust ) for it to perform satisfactorily.
That what I heard as well….. Has to be applied directly to the rust. My son and I are not building a Barrett Jackson vehicle but we are doing a complete frame off new nut and bolt, bare metal rebuild on this vehicle. So, for us or this particular build, por is not right for this application.
 
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