Recent content by 1 Wild R/T

Where in California? I might know a guy.... He's got probably a dozen rear seats, some A/B & E

The real stuff is gone, it's replacement with the green label was junk, there's a new version called "Ultra" isn't as good as the original, but it's much better than the green label...

Windshield comes out.... Still easier than the alternative....

I love spending other people's money... :rofl:

I'd rather have to much front bar than to much rear bar.... To much rear bar is fun if you have the skills and are paying attention... If not you can be in over your head quickly... Cars set up that way are tail happy... So you've gotta be ready to countersteer if the back end gets loose.. If...

From Post 38... In my 73 Road Runner, I replaced the rubber bushings with polyurethane. Part of me wants to be cautious about using steel inserts to replace them, but then again, my 70 is mounted solid to the body and I have no issues. At any rate, when I drove my 73 cross country both ways it...

If your using sub frame connectors rubber isolators is 100% the wrong choice....Either Solid mounts (best choice) or urethane... The Subframe connectors purpose is to prevent flex... Solid mounts prevent flex... Rubber especially old rubber flexes.... Get rid of it... Personally I would get...

Yeah, I just found the thread... Almost looks like someone sand blasted it, did crappy rust repairs & skimmed the whole car to cover up the waves...

The compressor is fine... Make sure you read & understand post #27... Your guy not knowing what pressure he should be running scares me, things like that can easily turn viable projects into forgotten junk...

I would be concerned about warpage even running at 90 psi... I have no problem using the blaster for jambs, engine compartment & undercarriage.. The main body panels I use either chemical stripper or a 8" mud hog... While blasting you can come back over the striped panels but stay back and hit...

Enjoy them while you still can, very few of the new generation cares...

I currently know of a collection of cars, the owner died, the kid wants to sell... Eight cars, from the 20's through the 40's.... None are restored, all are dry & rust free... Wants a package deal..... Just wants to be done with it... 35K for everything.... What does that say about the...

Not the same... They reproduce the E body brackets.... If you were closer I probably have a couple sets of Challenger brackets, but shipping cost makes it not worthwhile..

grounding the wire at the brake valve or the wire at the parking brake with the key in run or accessory should illuminate the brake light.. If not check the bulb, if it's good look for 12v at the bulb location...

@Phantomx