Recent content by BeastlyBirdie

generally, most headers install from below, easier on stands. Then lift one side of the engine, put the header in, repeat on other side. On many installs, a big hammer helps. Denting or 'retuning' headers is not that rare.

Cam is too big for stock heads. If the cam advises headers, on BB Mopars, it means the heads need massaging, at least (IMHO). The 60 ft time is a thing to work on, but it sounds like you had fun, and that is the whole point, isn't it?

I will have to head there.

That's not really a cheesy repair, I think that's what the factory used...

Really sorry to hear.

West Virginia.

74 power wagon owner here, and myersdale is about an hour away. Good luck finding a 70, and have fun building it!

Ummm, where did you hear that? Depends on cam timing, size, chamber and piston design, etc. I have consistently run 10.5:1 on 93 with iron heads. Static compression ratio and cranking p.s.I. are not really indicative of what it can burn.

Why the two beams? Seems like something to trip over, just wondering the justification. Thanks..

Mine have vac, and yes, 6105...etc.

Before the mid 90's, at least in California, where I grew up, these cars weren't worth much. In 1991, I was still able to routinely purchase a regular 68-70 big block b body for $400-900, running, needing paint/maybe interior work. If we slid into a guardrail and toasted a quarter, we either...

Also, some vent differences and baffles on a marine carb that aren't on a regular. I have a marine 6 pack, the vent is the only difference on those.

5window is about right. Plus, sitting is bad. The valve job is old, meaning 3 angle. The porting-was it for the stock valves, or 2.14's? Or are they just bowl? And though you know they are fresh, most buyers would look at them more like cores. $200-300, in my opinion.

Don't forget different head bolts in your cost.

Cool!