Recent content by Crackedback

Part of the reason the bulkhead likes to burn up. Inadequate alternator output at idle. Along with bean counters and engineers not doing customers any favors cheaping out on the system.

All good... :thumbsup:

Fractured spine guy... LOL That's a new one! Appreciate the purchase and use of my kit!

I'd like to see the couple hundred feet, direction of travel, before the accident site. MY 70 6pk gtx had the throttle stick WFO. Reach down and click it off. Scary ride, but, no panic. One of the few good things my dad taught me from driving/racing. See the Famoso accident posted on FABO...

On OEM ammeter wired cars... With items that run in both engine on or engine off state, there is no perfect place to pull power. You have to make a choice and go with the pickup point that the accessory will run most of the time, usually engine running.

Check the bulkhead connector, Violet wire IIRC, for power. Also probe the violet wire exiting the dimmer switch. If it is hot there, you know the issue is downstream in the wiring, towards the headlights.

AC car, running headlights and blower motor on high = never a balanced system at idle on a muscle era mopar. Same ol stuff with a boatload of qualifiers. The system itself, in a factory car, has never caused a problem, so some say, and that is just NOT TRUE. Jump starting a dead car and having...

The stock path is a trash can as designed from the start. How you decide to fix it is up to you. Run the ammeter or not, pick your approach and do it wisely.

Putting in a relay for the ignition and feeding anything else that is keyed on is a good idea to keep load off that OEM wire and switch.

mopar cams in general were not stamped or marked with any useful info. Only way to know for sure is a dial indicator and degree wheel.

It's groundhog day around here again. The charge system on muscle era mopars have caused issues from the day they rolled off the line. Saying otherwise is just not true. Smoked bulkheads on totally OEM cars was common, especially in hot environments with AC cars. Saw cars that were under 2...

Heresy... is there an exorcism scheduled? :) Nothing wrong with having a voltmeter.

We worked on plenty of burned up totally OEM equipped cars in the 70's. Sit on an LA freeway under the conditions outlined and the bulkhead gets cooked. Had the alternator output at idle been sufficient to support the system in that driving condition, many of those rigs wouldn't have ended up...

Push the wire into the connector, use a scribe/really small paperclip to release the tab. Lisle makes a multi tool to release a lot of these connectors, 56500 Sometimes there is a ledge/lip inside the connector where that lock tab sit, keeps it locked in place.

IIRC, there shouldn't be any open circuit in the mopar plug if you disconnect the power coming in from ballast and the neg coil wire Using MSD, only wires going to coil should be the one from your box. None of the factory wires attach.