Recent content by cudamark

It wasn't a VIN swap to fool anyone. It was the correct VIN tag for the car, it just had a totally hacked dash frame that I just had to replace.

Mostly jets, adjustments, and dash pot or not. With today's pump gas, the question is mostly moot. It's trial and error to get them tuned exactly, so, I wouldn't worry too much about whether it's a manual or auto carb, unless it for 100% show where numbers need to match.

Way back when I couldn't find the proper rivets, I got some plain stainless ones with the correct contour and diameter, and just used a tiny file to make my own "Rosettes". They came out pretty darn good too, if I do say so myself.

I know, I'm REALLY late to this party, but, I just wanted to add that I have an NOS Mopar hose 2863257 that does not have the pentastar. Instead it says MOPAR on it, with 42237 (I think, it's a bit hard to read the last 2-3 digits) after it. Compared to the ones above, my numbers are upside down...

By 1974 all Mopars came with disc brakes up front, except for the W100 and some A-bodies.

On the earlier cars, they used two different starter relays....one for manual trans, and one for autos. The difference was the way the relay grounded. With an automatic, it went from a terminal on the relay down to the NSS, which grounded that wire when in Neutral or Park. With a manual trans...

I don't like tight belts....they're hard on bearings....and it gives me indigestion too! :lol:

My old daily driver was a '63 MG Midget which got 45MPG @ 4000RPM all day long. The old Hillman and Datsun PU's with a small 4cyl got over 40MPG too. Just as long as you were in no big hurry! :lol:

When I had a belt squeal problem, I would run the RPM's up to where it made the noise and then used a spray bottle with water in it to see which "belt" was making the noise. It was almost always the pulley causing it, so, off with the pulley and into the bead blaster it went. A little spray...

Maybe the drums are a bit warped and clamping them down against the axle flange is making them distort up against the shoes. Back off the adjusters and see it it frees up.

Yeah, the switch and insulated plug connector changed in '78. The switch works the same however.

C-bodies started using the large pitman shaft in the early '60's. B-vans in '71. A,B, and E bodies in '73.

Yeah, by then they were all riveted. My build date is 8-17-65.

Real early '66 model were spot welded, not riveted. I know because I have one.

That seems pretty Mickey Mouse.....