Recent content by Diesel01

Is this the internals of the Canister?

I did not buy or install the Edlebrock, I got the car with it. I would like to put the TQ back on with the Lean Burn to be honest. Can somebody verify the way "the canister" works? What exactly does the "purge" port do? Here is an interesting article on how I believe the GMs work. Fixing...

Yes and from what I read the passenger side "emissions" is ported and the drivers side is continuous vacuum. Everything I read is that the "Purge" connection on the canister needs "ported" where it only gets vacuum when the throttle is opened. Currently, my distributor is connected to the...

I am trying to reconnect my tank evaporator/canister to my 1906 AVS2 but there are not enough ports. There are 3 ports on the front "ported vacuum", PVC, and another manifold vacuum port. I have searched and found that the "Carb" port on the canister can be plugged or connected with a T to...

Here is a back shot of the VFD that shows how the segments are connected.

That is my thoughts exactly is that these chips were custom made to be a real time clock and drive a VFD before cars were controlled by a CPU. There are plans on the Internet and Github to do the same thing but with an Ardrino chip and a VFD driver I did not know TI acquired them. Now I know...

Single board version. I should mention I cannot source the 7837 chip for this board either. VFD part#. I cannot source this VFD but I have found Russian ones that are not an exact replacement but by swapping pins around, I could probably get it working.

I thought I would update on my progress. I was able to fix the clock that had the burned inductor. However, my calculations were off. I purchased an Induction meter and found that the coil was 5.6mH. When I swapped the coil in the non working clock, I was only getting about 22v so I decided...

I compared the working with the one with the burned coil Good coil in working clock Bad clock with coil removed. The chip is pulsing at 8khz so the chip is working. I swapped the good coil and bad clock and circuit is working and no components getting hot. Now to find the value of...

Doing some more research and testing between my two clocks I have found that the coil, capacitor, switching transistor and clock chip form a voltage doubler from 12v to 24v using the 24 zener. On my working clock, I actually have 24.2v across the zener. So with my bad clock, I have to find out...

I removed the Zener from my working clock and tested it. Since my power supply only is variable to 15v, it wouldn't regulate either. I added a 12v battery in series and found the "knee" test on both Zeners from both clocks. They are 24v zeners. They both regulate at 24V. So the zeners are good.

Yes, it is best if they open and crack. That usually doesn't burn up traces on the board. When they fail shorted, that's when PCB repair is required. That is good to know. I have a couple old harddrives around where I have robbed SMD transisitors off it depending if NPN or PNP is needed...

I ran a test on the Zener diode. I put a 1k ohm resistor to positive of my power supply and the other end to the cathode of the diode then the anode to gnd of my supply. I watched the voltage across the diode up to 15v. It never regulated to 5, 6, 9, 12 or whatever it is. I ran the same test...

Well partial success. I put in a 10 ohm resistor for the coil and original zener. The clock powered up and worked. I was able to set it and the ":" was blinking. However, my resistor was getting hot. I measured at the zener and it was 12v to gnd. I measured the filament resistor and it was...