Recent content by diesel_lv

My thoughts have always been that 2 doors were more popular for hotrods and thus more valuable. Due to this, people junked (junk yard) most of the 4drs. Glad I've still got my Great-grandmothers '67 Coronet 440 4dr.

Found one on Ebay n got it. Looked at history of a few sold there n on here n all are around $50.

During my dash removal, AM radio etc and installing a "Retro Radio", I lost the support rod that attaches to the back of the radio. Does anyone know if it's available aftermarket or just through secondhand for sale ads? 1967 Coronet. Thanks.

That Dart is the perfect "daily". Slant 6, small 2bbl, electronic ignition with a good advance curve for highway cruising, O/D trans n 2.76 gears. Get almost 30mpg on the highway. No power/electric anything to go wrong. Run forever.

Yes, my passenger front caliper had the absolute slightest of leaks. Finally found it and all good afterwards.

I live where my summers are 125°+. I run a Flowkooler in a 496" stroker w a/c. Obviously water pump is only part of the equation, but it flows very well and when I had a 160° t-stat, it flowed enough at low rpm to keep engine below 180° w a/c going. 4yrs with it now and no leaks or issues. I...

Are you looking for ease, sorta original, etc... I ran my 4bbl Fitech the same route as a factory fuel pump. My return out the back by bell housing and along feed line back to tank. I used 3/8 factory style steel line for feed w AN fittings at the ends for connection to tank and Throttle body.

The oil slinger was installed correctly. That is what happens to a lot of them w certain double row timing chains, not from a grinder. Leaves lots of metal in oil obviously. I removed my slinger as it doesn't make any difference.

Where it says "spacer" if inches, direct drive, otherwise listing type of fan clutch used.

You stated "new" rear main. Chances are good it's the rear main. The seal itself is probably not bad, but the procedure used in installing the seal and cap is what causes leaks.

Spring is not necessary. Before test running car w adjustments you've made, get a pressure tester from auto parts store (loaner tool) and check system hold pressure at 16psi. Then drive car. If it burps a little, let it cool n then drive again and check temps. 215° is "not" overheating. After...

A quick word on recovery tanks. The open system recovery tank was put on "in-case" a car puked, to keep it off the streets. The closed system was to keep a higher pressure, higher boiling point, this caused more fluid expansion and it needed someplace to go, then needed to get returned to...

All things mentioned are pretty much correct. It doesn't sound like your system is running bad at all. I live where it's 125° in the summer and had to really research to make sure my 496" w a/c didn't overheat. Fill 50/50 mix "distilled" water n antifreeze to 1" below radiator fill opening. At...

New tank and 3" TTI exhaust on my '67 Coronet. Had same issue. Bent large corners, and made some steel plates to move tailpipe hangers further outboard.

Yep... my relay was intermittent for awhile. Sometimes started w key n sometimes screwdriver jump until one day it was always screwdriver.