Recent content by dsd1967

That much slop makes me believe that someone tried to adjust the box without understanding how to properly adjust it. The gears that mesh together are tapered, and you have to "pull" them together to make them mesh. That means once you loosen the jam nut, the allen screw needs turned...

Just a heads up. That’s actually a 66-67 K frame due to the drag link being tapered with only one bolt and only a single sided lower bracket. The 68-69 bracket used an upper and lower bracket with a through bolt. It will bolt in to the years listed but if replacing the drag link pivot it will...

Avoid anything with sodium hydroxide in it.....it will eat up the aluminum. That is what ez-off oven cleaner has in it, and Zep also has a cleaner that is loaded with Sodium Hydroxide. It's good for taking anodize off aluminum....but it won't stop at the anodize layer so you have to keep out...

Reminds me of a joke. A Beagle and a Great Dane were sitting in the vet waiting room. The Great Dane says “what you in for?” and the Beagle replies “I dug under the fence and knocked up the neighbors poodle, so I’m in here to get fixed “. The Beagle says “what’s your story?”. The Great Dane...

The basic frame rail will work between 66-70 Plymouth but there are minor differences such as exhaust hanger provisions, fuel tank hangers and fuel filler holes. If you have the original rails as a template those provisions can be added to the newer year rails.

Looking at the above pictures of the head only, and then the completed assembly, it looks like a cotter pin and a spring could go a long way if you could get a replacement head. The bases normally don't get ripped off the vehicle.

PM sent

My father in law had a nos one when I was visiting in December. He worked at a mopar parts depo and would pick these types of things from time to time because they were going into the trash. Cheaper to throw them away than restock. I’m taking to him tonight and will see if he still has it...

February 24. FYI If the date was in the supplied information…. I missed it.

I've done a couple of sets in the past but never thought to take pictures. It's been years since I did them, but I'm positive I had to remove one of those swaged rivets to get one side out. Once the first roller set comes out, I believe the track will move far enough to get the other roller...

I just did 4 garage doors with torsion springs over the Christmas break for my new garage. The rules I lived by were: 1. Stay out of the line of fire....especially the head/face area...work off to the side 2. Always remove the upper bar immediately after firmly inserting the lower bar. That...

Am I seeing things....or does the back window contour not look right. It seems to be too bulged out at the top.

I did a 69 dart and tilted it like you show in your first post. Mine didn’t have the front or rear suspension or any doors or bolted panels and was on home made dollies. I was able to lift it by hand onto its side. I used a sawhorse on the opposite side to keep it from going over all the way...

You should be able to measure the opening and compare that dimension to the floor from seam to seam at the drop offs.

I believe the floor pan is dimpled where the holes get drilled. The plates will pretty much line up and drop in place when you get them in their right location.