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Thanks for the explanation!
Most of the time, the picture have the control arm with both bushing install and without the bar in it. I was starting to question my judgement here...
Final update.
I was less stupid then I tough, when I dismantle the head, I have kept the old valve seal in the bag.
So I have use the same as before, #1 on the intake and #3 on the exhaust.
Thanks for your help!
My valve guide look like the top image.
Since it's absolutely not a performance build, I will let the valve guide as is and probably go with the positive seal on the intake and short umbrella for the exhaust.
#1 fit the intake and the exhaust.
When I remove the valve, both the intake and exhaust have the #1 on them.
So can I install the #2 on the exhaust anyway? Since the seal will not be attach to anything it will go up and down with the valve stem am I right?
I have a 1968 383 engine that run 440 heads (452 casting).
The head are from 1976.
I need to replace the valve stem seal. I have bought a Fel-Pro gasket set KS2110 to rebuild the engine.
However, the heads coming from a later 440 motor, have different valve stem seal seating and the seal that...
OK perhaps I am stupid and did not check properly, but is there a inner wheel housing inside the front fender on a 1973 Charger?
I mock up the front fender and it look quite empty and open. I wonder if I am missing pieces to put over the front wheel?
See image for clarity.
The underside look clean as hell.
And the rust look minimal also.
As a Canadian, where all the car of those years are rusted everywhere, that's an easy fix.
Motor are easier to fix than frame or body...
I have no f**king clue...
I bought the car already in pieces and the motor and transmission were at another storage.
The motor was already half open, the head gasket were remove at some point and the head bolt back without it.
There is a "030" stamped on the piston, so I am almost sure the motor...