Recent content by Gold Rush

As I said earlier, I'm out of sorts for now but just so you all know the idler arm has less then 400 miles on it and is definitely the correct one. Steering has not been right since putting the car back together a couple years ago. I'm trying to develop a plan to fix a problem when I get back...

I can not pin down exactly what is causing the slop in my steering but strongly suspect it may be in the idler arm area. There is at least an inch gap between the idler bushing and top mounting bracket when the steering is all the way to the left. As I turn to the right the busing slides up to...

Looks to me like your fears are well founded. The 2X8 cradle will help for sure but remember to keep the speed down of rough roads. Any weight you remove from the K-Frame area would lessen the likelyhood of further damage. Supporting the cradle all the way to the trailer deck and securing it...

So I think you are wanting to replace the wire connector attaching the red wire to the Amp Meter. If that is correct, I believe that is a 12 gauge wire so select a connector the wire will slide into and the eye fits the stud you will be attaching to. I've seen different eyelet thicknesses so...

It appears to me like the sender you show tests good. I agree with 68-500 about the wire or gauge. Where did you have the sender connected while showing the gauge readings? Might need to closely examine feed from sender to gauge.

First thing you need to determine is where the fault cause is. The sender, The gauge, or possibly even a bad wire. I'd start by removing the wire from the sender (outside of the tank) and connecting that wire direct to chassis ground. If the gauge pegs out full then most likely it and the...

MY Bad!! I KNEW THAT!! Got the ball rolling on sorting out his issue. I agree the continuity to ground is likely coming through light bulbs

On an original amp meter the red wire goes to the alternator output and the black wire to the battery positive output. That is how the system determines battery charge/discharge condition which is what the meter is supposed to do. The volt meter will have one connection to the battery and one...

Is the new distributor true HEI? If so Did you bypass the ballast resistor and increase the sparkplug gaps? I believe HEI likes the full starting voltage and because of the hotter spark more like .050 to .060 plug gap is used. Also, an E-Core coil is used with that setup. Hope that helps

Previous two posts are exactly what I used to rewrap the '74 SE harnesses and to lube all push together style connectors. Use friction tape to hold the ends of the harness warp in place and don't stretch the tape too tight. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

For those of us that don't know, what is HT ? Thanks for the tip.

Thanks again Terry! More often than not, there seems to be one or two clips that way. As I've aged they get more and more frequent :)

Thanks so much. I think now I can figure the rest out. MUCH APPRECIATED!

NOBODY ???? This is the last thing I need to install but just can't figure it out. Surely someone has time to lend a hand. THANKS!!!

Can anyone post or send me photos of how these fit a 1974 Charger with a/c. I know they are air dams that are suppose to go by the radiator I just can't seem to solve the position issue. I'm wondering if the new ac condenser is the cause. Photos would be a real help.. Thanks for any help! :D