Recent content by JC Boatguy

This was the first post I looked at today, and right on time, Renton, was there ranting and raving about his superior knowledge and supreme intellect, he's the opposite of helpful. He's a bully and an ***, the moderator NEEDS TO WARN HIM to stop bullying, be helpful, or be banned permanently...

In my humble opinion, it looks like you don't have a complete "burn" of the air fuel charge. Cold plug maybe, but to me that sooty plug is just too rich and a hotter plug won't fix that. Just my 2 cents. JC

I can't help you establish a value but, I bought a Satellite Sebring Plus, original California car, never wrecked, rusted or painted. I paid a little over market, but well worth the fact that it DOESN'T NEED BODY WORK!

Hahahahahaha!!!

It happened to me!!!!

No no no!!! I was told, you tighten it til the threads "just pull" then back of a quarter turn...lol

I've built engines at multiple machine shops. I've been building boat inboard Marine engines for decades. No performance engines run tight piston to wall clearances. 5 thousandths is necessary on performance applications for exactly the reason previously stated. My buddy built racing circle...

I've seen NUMEROUS failures when gaskets are used with RTV. The RTV acts like a lubricant, it eventually squeezes the gasket out of place. My experience has been to install tge gasket dry, or just RTV alone as previously stated.

I too question hardened seats, they are fine, but can STILL fall out. Plus it is a lot of work to replace all the seats. Probably not worth it considering the options today. Nothing is better than a positive seal on the guide. You guys gave great advice on the springs. Nothing beats properly...

Welcome from the frozen tundra! Nice car!!!!!!!!!

Welcome from the frozen tundra! You picked the best place to help you through this journey, I've solved several issues here without even posting a question, THE ANSWERS WERE ALREADY HERE! Lol

Welcome from the frozen tundra!

I 100% agree with you Doug, I inspect everything I buy, looking for even small debris, burrs, etc.

Just wanted to give my 2 cents, been building heads and engines all my life. On old old hot rod heads with iron factory guides, knurling is a good option because if it buys you 10,000 miles, that's a LONG time in some hot rodders world. And it's true the oil that sits in the knurled guide does help.