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Your suggestion is to switch from ported to manifold on the vacuum advance ? Worth a try . I did just test drive it after double checking my total timing at 38* my brakes are better taking 5 ft to stop instead of 10 ft. I still wouldn't venture onto the Seattle freeway in this condition
I have taken it as high as I can to see if it will make a difference I believe it was 20 initial. I think I will need to get some light wieght springs , if it matters I run a hei
I did just that yesterday, all in at 39 right now moved my vacuum up to 10 at idle. Tried turning up the vacuum advance next but can't tell if it's even turning inside the little can
What kind of vacuum were you pulling , I'm going to get a hand bleeding them, using my vacuum bleeder yesterday was alot more awkward then I remembered on the fronts . If it's not air in the lines I'm thinking maybe a leak around the carb or spacer because I'm getting 7 at idle with my idle...
I dont know how to explain or google my situation because I have a great brake pedal feel especially after adding the vacuum canister to my power brakes but my brakes are not working . Mopar purple cam 284 484 is what came in the short block i bought I know there are more conventional grinds...
Yeah the cam killed my vacuum so I did add the canister it gave me a huge improvement in pedal feel but sadly it still takes almost 10 ft to stop and i just don't get how my brakes are not functioning, it did take a month to do the swap
So I swapped a 360 I place of my 318 this included a mp 284 484 and now my brakes are not . So I ordered a canister and wow so much pedal but my brakes are not please help
Just read an article where some work to the combustion chamber on a x head increased the cc by 7 that is huge but before I dream of those gains I would need to check the j heads cc to see if they were still the full 68-72 cc or if they had been milled before ... how to I find the cc of a...