Recent content by LowBikeMike

Read the Factory Service Manual. You do not need to remove the entire assembly, you can remove the front cover that houses the heater core. It's a bad job but the dash doesn't need to come out. Good luck on getting the glove box insert out, I've never had any luck removing them.

Rich mixture and exhaust leak allowing air in and combustion in the pipes/muffler.

Not everyone's cup of tea. I did read his book and he has an interesting story of how he "made it". And of course, plenty of that show and prices paid are staged....

Why do the moderators allow a member to continually be degraded and harassed by another member? Do better.

Not cancelled, but company wrote the policy excluding the roof because it's 25 years old. Another company refused to write a policy due to the old roof.

The M&H harness is a duplicate of the original, so no change in wiring paths. I chose a M&H harness with a parallel path from Alt to Ammeter using an extra hole someone drilled on my firewall. I have an AC car and find i need to run my fan on Medium instead of the default low speed to keep the...

St Louis Spring. Had mine done in a day. Great product and people to deal with.

I've done what you are considering, I will not do it again and would encourage you not to either.

Yep. Im going to add some aftermarket temp, oil pressure gauges and use the same grommet.

Here ya go.

Looks like you are missing bolts that hold what would be the shift bowl on.

Generally, Yes.

My 69 RR didn't have thru 'pins' but rather 2 channels 4 inches apart where the shafts overlapped. The melted plastic filled the channel all the way around holding the inner/outer shafts together.

To run an accurate continuity check both ends of the wire must be disconnected. You are reading the ground thru the bulbs or other components in the circuit.

What am I missing, he's pretty much got it word for word from the GSM?