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If you are looking for the original part number for your gas cap, it is 2643998.
Here is a link to an online parts catalog for 1966 cars:
https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/partscatalogs/66_Mopar_Parts_Catalog.zip
See page 14-17, section 14-86-0 Fuel tank, part identifier 14-86-35 Cap, Filler...
One thing to note on the repops for the 67 Coronet - the strip directly below the speedometer is chromed on the repops. The original bezels are black. I never understood how this was missed in design/manufacturing. It may not matter to some, but it is not correct.
You need to grind the welds that attach the shaft to the butterfly valve. This will release the shaft so that it can slide out.
The new valve will need to be welded to the new shaft.
More detail in this thread:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/manifolds-and-flappers.211732/
I can’t speak specifically to the GTX, but I have had the instrument panel out of my 67 Coronet with A/C numerous times. I found it best to remove the A/C duct from the driver’s A/C vent first. There are two screws holding the A/C vent to the lower dash. Remove the screw closest to the...
I think your main issue is that you do not have the vacuum harness attached to your heater box (as stated in post #6). That harness has vacuum lines that attach to each diaphragm on the box and runs to the A/C switch on the dash and provides the vacuum line that would run to the intake...
The main vacuum for the system runs via vacuum line from a fitting on the left rear of the intake manifold directly to a port on the A/C switch in the dash. The FSM has lots of diagrams to illustrate the vacuum line routing. Here’s an example from my ‘67 manual, but there are differences in...
Not sure about the speaker size for your specific application, but check out the bottom two pictures in post 14 of the thread below. Two small (3-1/2”) coaxial speakers mounted to a single plate to fit in the location of your center speaker. I made my own, but they are available for some...
Thanks, I wasn’t sure how to check them. I didn’t want to poke around too much trying to test them.
I’m just going to dig in and replace the seals and go from there.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
I took one valve cover off this afternoon. There are no visible pieces of valve seal on the heads. I can’t see through the valve springs to see the condition of the seals. A few pictures:
Thanks MarPar. The knock I hear is lower-tone than lifter tick and lasts a few minutes. I also hear the lifters ticking right after starting, but that disappears after 10 seconds or so as you would expect.