Recent content by PRHeads

Congrats on the “10” Bill!!

The color isn’t really showing up for me, but I’ve seen it where the dye in race gas will stain an intake manifold. Try a little carb cleaner and scotchbrite on it, see if it comes off. If there’s epoxy in there, maybe the fuel dye stained the epoxy.

Maybe they ran short on .904 bodies, and knew you were anxious to get them, so they used what was on hand. What’s .030” beteeen friends? Those don’t look like the “less expensive” street version lifters either.

Fwiw, When utilizing vac advance, my preference is to set it up so the max it can reach is about 45*. This generally requires either a pretty slow mechanical curve and a fairly normal vac can(basically like a stock distributor with low initial timing), and/or a vac can with a pretty short...

BBM E street and RPM heads are both equipped with the same springs, part number 5792. As I said previously, currently the only parts differences between the two heads are the valves.

Unported factory MW heads don’t really flow all that great, they’re just “bigger” than their non-MW cousins(but not necessarily bigger where it matters). Imo, if there aren’t rules dictating which heads you can use, it’s just “better” to start out with some aluminum aftermarket pieces. AFAIK...

1-1/4” on the side 1” on the ends

When the E street line was first introduced they came with powdered metal seats(the RPM’s used ductile iron). The PM seats were pretty miserable to machine, even for Ede, and after a few years decided to go with the DI seats in the E streets. They’ve been that way for maybe 5 years or so now...

I’m surprised. Seems like it would be right up his alley.

to answer the original question……. I believe Dave at KG Engines(in Kansas Ohio) has a MW program for some of the non-MW heads. I’m not sure if 915’s are on the list or not. Give him a call. A few years back I reworked a set of Stealths so they could be used with a factory MW intake.

Bill should be able to get it sorted out:thumbsup:

With the compression height known you can better approximate how far down the pistons will be at TDC. That’s an important part of the CR equation. It will likely be a number a bit shy of 2.00”.

Measure from the top of the piston to the center of the pin. You’ll need to use something like a caliper to get a fairly accurate number.

That’s how it works.

All are wet on 906’s