Recent content by q-ship

From your description, I would almost be willing to guarantee it's the valve seals. Check them first before starting an expensive rebuild.

I will take them for $60.00 shipped. These are for a B engine for certain (383/400)? I have a heavy main 400 "230" block that I may, or may never, get around to doing something with, but for the price, It wont hurt my feelings if they sit around forever. PM me with your pay pal info, Thanks

Though I have never used the particular Por 15 product you linked to, I have used Por 15 in the past (as well as several other products) with mixed results. What I have found to be the best is "rust bullet". That stuff is tough as nails, and used by the Coast Guard. I have found that...

turning by hand will be no more effort than turning the assembly on a bench. RPM is what makes the unit pump and offer resistance. I learned long ago to use my drill on low speed for priming as you can easily overload a drill motor on high speed.

PM sent on the part so as not to get the thread off topic. Thanks.

I don't know how directional those Hertz tweeters are, but you may have off axis imaging problems with them pointing down at the same angle as the vent cover. Depending on how deep the tweeter is, you can mount them in the A pillar plastic for great direction stability if you aren't happy...

Were it me, I would go with a hybrid. --- Use the factory A/C dash frame, Heat-A/C box, and stock ducting from the Charger, and go modern under the hood. The stock evaporator is far more efficient than any of the aftermarket offerings, and a new rotary type compressor and parallel flow...

It's important to know what your speaker system is. Stock? Stock radio? If stock, year of vehicle? The reason this is ultra important is that the 60's early/mid 70's (and all earlier) cars used a "universal ground" audio system. Meaning that the speakers all used the chassis as ground, as did...

The port at the back of the unit is the correct port. not the one on the cylinder head or muffler. Needless to say, you should have a gage set, and factory service manual before you start, but if not, at least have it vacuumed down before filling the system with gas, as not vacuuming it can...

Unless they are really old low wattage (1960's) amps, you will need to apply power to the "power-up/start circuit" also. Can you post a picture of the terminals? Also, be careful about using anything other than a car battery to power them as most any amp will require far more amperage than...

Without question the best option for a street car. All the others, including bolting/chaining, are pretty much the same as solids. Some like the solid/polly/bolted/chained feel, but if you want a near stock, smooth feel, the Mighty Mounts are the only option. The reason that over the...

The 346 heads (71-73) were induction (flame) hardened seats whereas the 452's were stellite material (solid hardened metal, not just surface hardened). There were a couple of other part number heads from 74 to 76 that had insignificant changes as far as guide thickness, etc; but all ports were...

I have never heard of a dryer/receiver in the car body, and don't see how that could be of any benefit, or even possible, as it can't be between the expansion valve and evaporator else it would freeze up the accumulated moisture and not only be rendered useless, but would become a blockage to...

I don't know if any particular kit is better than another as they all use the same or similar parts (compressors, condensers, driers, etc). Classic auto air is the largest producer and is the only aftermarket system I have ever dealt with. The only upgrades I have done to them is a larger...

That lifter was not turning. All the Zinc (ZDDP) in the world wouldn't have stopped the wear. Either lifter rotation was not checked during assembly, or the engine was assembled far too dirty, and dirt/debris got between the lifter and it's bore causing it not to turn. In either case I...