Recent content by rdbird9

Installed QA1 upper control arms in the '69 Roadrunner this morning. I had tried to do an alignment on the car last week but the passenger side upper had a loose bushing. The car already has a few suspension upgrades so I figured what the heck, I'll try a set of tubular control arms. I got...

It's been almost a month since I inherited the '69 Roadrunner from my uncle and I've been enjoying it a lot. This morning I took some pictures in the driveway, filled it with gas, and then went for a nice ride. I had it up on the alignment rack at work a few days ago and found a worn bushing...

Well it turns out the master cylinder pushrod needed quite a bit of adjustment (about 2 turns out) and the brakes feel a ton better. The pedal pressure point is much higher now and it stops much quicker when you really stomp it. I wouldn't call this totally solved but probably like 80-85% of...

The only non-power brakes I've driven are the manual 4-wheel drums on my '66 VW Bug. However, that is a far cry from the system you are installing. There definitely is a more mechanical-feeling connection with the VW's manual brakes than the other cars I've driven.

So I checked my master cylinder pushrod length against the .920" spec in the manual and mine is already adjusted longer than that. The spec in the manual was for a different style booster though, but I thought maybe... So I adjusted the rod out 3/4 turn. My brother wanted to drive the car...

Okay so my master would have originally had a residual pressure valve in the front port (rears) that should have been or needs to be removed. I would tend to think it was removed because if it was still there wouldn't it be causing the rear disc brakes to drag/overheat? I think the aftermarket...

Thanks for the tip on the two rods. I looked in the manual this evening. It only gives a spec for the Midland Ross booster rod (not the booster I have) of .910"-.920" so I may try that as a reference point. I'll look at it this weekend.

Here's a picture of the valve. It's really tucked down there so it's kind of hard to get a clear picture from the top down. It looks like one of the generic black proportioning valves from JEGS or SSBC. From what I've read, the adjustment knob is for the rears.

I hadn't thought of that but since I'm pretty sure this has a disc/drum master cylinder it should not have a residual pressure valve in it. I'm not positive on that though.

No I did not. This was one of my ideas as well but I have not actually checked it yet. From what I have looked at some pushrods are adjustable and some are not. I have the factory shop manual but I would assume the factory pushrod free-play spec may be useless now because of the non-stock...

I looked through some old under-hood pictures of the car pre-conversion and it definitely has a different booster now though I'm not sure about the type.

So first off I've only had this '69 Roadrunner for a week, so I don't know a whole lot about it. The car was originally drums all around that I believe were power. The previous owner did the 4-wheel disc conversion and said that it works okay but could be better and I agree. It's not horrible...

I just found this old picture of the Roadrunner from about 2005. My uncle is in the driver's seat, I'm in the red plaid shirt and my younger brother is behind the car.

It has '68 marker lights on the '69 fenders and quarter panels. He liked the look of them better than the rectangle '69 markers. I think they are placed quite a bit higher on this car than the factory '68 location.

I'm in Eagle about 25 miles west of Milwaukee.