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A set of these would look great... I'm planning to run a set of four 17x9.5's myself with 275/40's all around.
https://transamraceengineering.com/collections/superlite/products/spl1795155
Superlite 17x8 5x114.3 4.5" Backspacing 73mm Centre Bore SPL178145
No, for handling having the wheel just slightly wider than tread width is generally the best, as it supports the sidewall. I'd be more concerned using what's basically a drag radial on a car I wanted to handle well, the design parameters are somewhat in opposition to each other.
The hydraulic clutch is nice in use. On my '71 Coronet a fair bit of tunnel modification WAS needed, so different years and models will clearly vary on that. E bodies being fairly similar to 71-72 B Bodies, I'd count on tunnel mods being needed.
Adjustable for link length is what I was talking about re preload, some are also adjustable for the link mounting point on the bar end giving different rates which I couldn't see on this one.
That's how most all sway bars work. That one is just custom fabbed and no doubt adjustable to remove any preload (and possibly change the rate, can't really see the end of the arm).
It's also why you can often pick up a 4 door for far cheaper than it's 2 door brother currently. I picked up my Coronet for about 1/10th what a similar condition Charger/Satellite would usually cost here (also borne out by Hagerty's price guide). As more younger folks get involved though...
Yes, the Coronet is basically a 4 door Charger with an extra 3" of wheelbase. Lots of good suggestions on the door already, just be sure to carefully research any shop you go to, if that's the route you choose. Far too many will beat it close and apply a half-inch of bondo. You definitely do...
I'm pointing out that 1) 5.2 Magnums do not balance through the flexplate or converter, they're internally balanced like an LA 318, and 2) I specifically said the 5.9 and LA 360 weren't balanced the same, just that they're both externally balanced.
No, the resistors are for more modern cars that check to see if bulbs are out by circuit resistance. You add them so the car isn't constantly telling you that you have a bulb out.