Recent content by Rennkafer

Really nice install! I'm just finishing an Auto to TKX instead on my '71 Coronet, how much reshaping of the transmission tunnel did you end up needing to do?

Great post, this one thing is the only bit I'd quibble about. The truck manifolds (particularly 92-93) are better than nearly any LA manifolds. The 92-93 flow about the same as the 340HP manifolds. For a cruiser that you don't want to worry about headers leaking, they're a great option.

Also sent a request on IG... @wiwtfab

And the Bobcat was free... a really hard to pass up price. Just had to pay to get it to my house.

Hasn't been a lot of things to photograph, as the rainy season is upon us, but I did get a delivery last week, and I've been busy disassembling and cleaning parts from the 5.2 Magnum I'm building. Engine was just going to be a reseal/new manifold and run it, but some investigation found 3...

My '71 Coronet has a 3 point upper mount... but it's not the original column (and it's tilt). I'll have a look under the dash on the '71 Satellite and see if it's the same, as that one has an oem column.

A 9 1/4?? That's an odd one, wonder how that made it under there.

Definitely nothing wrong with 4 doors...

No modern radial performance tires need to be "run flat" and especially not on older suspensions with limited camber gain. Also look into "camber thrust" on modern performance tires. Bias ply tires need far less camber.

Best brake torque with less than a 6 piston caliper is the factory 11.75", that's going to be the best performance, at least for a single stop. And ya, "brakes stop the wheels, tires stop the car" is absolutely true. So on that end you're 100% correct.

I ran brake torque numbers on every combo from stock 11" to the 11.75" a couple 13" setups, and up to the 14" 4 piston Wilwood. The winner... the factory 11.75" setup. Now I realize that for racing there are heat management and pedal feel issues, but for a performance street car, I can't see...

That's basically how my Hotchkis springs came, poly on one end, rubber on the other.

Not the OP (I'm also a machinist though)... but I can tell you what's going on there. The bars are put between the ends of the control arm while pressing in new bushings. This prevents the arm from being bent during the pressing operation. I would probably use a piece of tube with a slot cut...

Ah that's good to know in case I need a replacement in a pinch.

Just found this, love the wagon. I have a '71 sedan that I picked up from a wrecking yard July '23. You mentioned earlier in the thread that you had cut a Charger windshield to fit... how well did it end up fitting?