Recent content by ScottVA

That's a bad machine 65hemi. I think you sit a hair higher but I think mine are good. Thanks for your help

I have a 65 Belvedere and after reading many posts about rear leafs, I have determined that the car has SS springs mounted. The right side with the 8 leaf, 2 forward springs and the left side with 6 leafs. The car is slightly higher on the right side which is normal from what I have read on...

I have a 6 bolt crank pulley and water pump pulley from a mid 70's 440. The crank pulley is a two groove. Both are in excellent shape. $25 plus shipping. If you have questions, you can call 804-691-7958. Scott

I have a 3 row 22" radiator out of a '65 Belvedere. This radiator was cooling a 440 with no problems. It is in excellent shape and very clean. No leaks. $75 plus shipping. If you have questions, call me at 804-691-7958. Scott

After having success removing the pitman arm, I read where it is a good idea to replace the idler arm at the same time. The problem is that the idler arm sits in a "saddle" if you will, and I cannot get a pickle fork to it. How do you remove it? The car is a 65 Belvy. Thanks once again for the...

I did just that, silversedan and got it out of the way. And as PurpleBeeper advised, I removed the center link and lowered it out of the way and the header still will not clear the starter and steering box. It may be able to clear if I could lift the car higher, but I cannot get the car high...

Thank you so much. That is great news. I may have to remove the Pittman arm as well, but that won't affect the tie rods either. What a hassle this has been. The headers are 2" and I have no idea who made them. Thanks again for the advice.

I have a 65 Belvedere 440 and I am attempting to remove the left side header to replace a starter. The header is making contact on the Pittman arm and a straight bar that runs under the oil pan. It has 4 attachment points...Pittman arm and tie rod on the left side and Idler arm and tie rod on...

I get junkyard ministarters off V6 and V8 mopars all the time. Work great. Cleaning optional.... :) Can you get a thread chaser on that stripped stud? Might be a challenge with headers. Great thought, but highly unlikely with the headers. It's very difficult just to get to either of the...

Guys, I want to thank all for the help that was given to me with this project. While seemingly easy and straight forward, I have now run into more problems making this a major "I should have never done it" project.. the simple problem...the starter relay is pulling in, but is not sending power...

Glenwood, I have never seen a 4 speed with the neutral switch. I have a 4 speed and it doesn't have one

I like the idea of the jumper wire that your diagram shows and Glenwood mentioned earlier. I don't know if I can make that work with the stiff 8awg wire and headers. The car has headers and is a 4 speed. Very difficult to reach and a tight area to work in. I may have to look at that though

Glenwood, this helps big time. I know where the terminal is on the solenoid. And I know where battery power is on the relay. What size wire do I run to the solenoid?

I have a 1968 Ford Mustang starter solenoid mounted in the trunk. The relay is in its original spot on the firewall. I thought the new solenoid was to replace the one on the starter, so there are now 2. One on the starter and one in the trunk. The one on the starter has nothing hooked to it at...

ok that should be good. can you take a pic of the starter relay connections? Should be the large red cable from the battery on one post and another down to the starter solenoid. When you connected the neg side to the bumper bolt, did you make sure it is on clean bare metal? Also, the size of...