Recent content by topside

I haven't used a lead additive in anything for many years - and haven't had a problem with any of the cars/trucks. For higher compression or race engines, I mix in some 100LL or VP110 on one street car, and use VP110 race gas in the racecar. I think most anything from the mid-70s, or rebuilt...

Yes - S = Special, P = Premium, M = mid-range, L = Low. '69 Coronet R/T will be a WS; engine code will either be L (440) or J (Hemi) - no others. Mopar1us.com and Mymopar.com both have decoders, and there are others on Google.

I'll add Ted Stephens to the list Darter mentioned - one of those guys should either have a parts car or know who does.

Probably ought to be decided quickly: whatever metal comes off is going to attack every bearing. Had a near-twin to that many years ago; gold interior car with power windows that ran up & down like guillotines. Last I heard, it's still in NorCal and being enjoyed.

On my current '68 RR (Lynch Rd, SPD 2/12/68) someone actually wrote "headrests" on its Broadcast Sheet in large letters. FT info doesn't include a lot of stuff - that's why the cars had Broadcast Sheets taped to them as they traveled along the line.

RM21 is a Road Runner Coupe. 4-speed Road Runners got black carpet, regardless of base or Decor Group, HT or Coupe, or interior color. Auto cars with Decor got a dark, color-coded carpet. Occasionally someone claims to have an exception, and it's possible, but all my original 4-speed RRs had...

The inspector stamp may mean the car was assembled @ Lynch Road - my '68 RR has that stamp. My St Louis '68-'69 cars didn't/don't have that stamp.

For dings & small dents, I'd try a paintless dent repair guy - saves the whole touch-up or painting hassle. Won't work if there's bondo there, however.

If it's something you want to quickly remove - a bath towel under your butt and an XL t-shirt or a sweatshirt over the seat back (buckets) or another towel (bench). I'd use white to avoid bleed-through. More permanent would be something like Calif car Cover has - numerous types in their catalog.

I should add: I've restored green, burgundy, blue, and a couple with black (white & black and silver & black) - and with the colors, I usually buy 4 of the listed colors. The color chart info for interiors is sometimes not the same color on the original items I'm repainting. The suede finish...

Inner door panels and the side headliner/roof garnish were gloss finish. Suede finish on upper windshield garnish, dash, steering column & ashtray. Defroster ducts, kick panels, upper A-pillar garnish, seatbelt anchor covers - all the plastic stuff - was molded in color, a satin-ish finish, and...

'66-up have the engine & trans 1 5/8" rearward than they were '62-'65, so around the bellhousing area there's more room in an early B. But the early B has a smaller driveshaft tunnel, so the gearcase area may be very tight, likely too tight.

There were differing level of gloss depending on the vendor & part - some basically "semi-gloss" or "satin", and some fairly glossy but cheap paint. Some parts were literally dipped, others sprayed. Look for drips on stuff like torsion bars and you can see the method used. What I do is clean the...

If you mean the tailgate, try restorationspecialties.com - I've bought a bunch of weatherstripping, seals, and hardware from them over the years.

Maybe not much help, but when my '63 Savoy wagon needed a new cardboard headliner, I got it from Jim Kramer. It went in well, think it was around $500 maybe - that was about 10 years ago. Sedan/HT would have likely cost less.