Recent content by zombezoo

We were able to swap all the bushings Father's Day weekend. I used the longer bolt approach and ultimately the k frame drop was limited by the upper control arm brackets hanging on the front frame rail. If the longer bolts did anything it was keeping the k frame aligned with the holes in the...

I decided to just order the cold case unit. I think that's the issue as well. We shall see once it arrives. Will update in about 2 weeks when I have time to install it.

My understanding is that the fan clutch should really not be contributing to temp control at highway speeds. The car runs cool at idle and in stop and go suggesting to me that the fan clutch is doing a good job. Edit: Its new also. It corrected warming temps at idle I was having initially.

Hood to rad support seal is contacting, I think it's ok. This morning was in the high 60s so. No issues. I may be out of time to troubleshoot this problem this year. Temps in the mid 60s this week. This may be a next summer problem

Read my mind, its a Fitech setup. I dont have timing control so I have a recurved factory unit. As for fuel I reset the fuel learning on the system and left the targets in the mid 13s, it did not make a difference. The last thing before I replace the radiator with an aluminum unit will be to...

I have to believe that 110+ degree temps would be much worse for me. I can tell the difference between 80 and 90 degree days. Once the temps are in the 70s, the problem largely goes away.

The hood has a seal at the radiator support. I will check how well it seals in the morning. The firewall end of the hood does not sit down on the seal, the hinges are worn and pop up at the back. Not sure if that is of concern.

Update: I drained the system this morning and installed -flowkooler water pump (I already have their 180 thermostat) -Spring in lower hose to prevent collapse Same or slightly worse than factory rv pump which has a larger impeller than stock replacement. Hotter day today, 89 in Chicago. Temps...

I think 135-degree boots are essentially the same as 45-degree boots (different mfgs use different terms, Pertronix uses 45-degree term). I have all 90-degree boots now that I was able to make work with the exception of the two drivers rear plugs that keep burning. 45/135 boots would be better...

Its WAY harder. I just always wanted a 440 big block car so I made one. No regrets. They do make 90 degree ceramic boots. I figured I would try here first in case someone knew where I might find 45 degree shorties.

Does anyone know a source for short 45 degree ceramic plug wire boots? (8mm). I have the pertronix ones but they are too long for many of the locations, they hit the steering components on the driver's side and the fender on the passenger. The back two drivers plug locations on a 440 with the...

That helps, so after a system refresh, you think you're running in the 185 range (no AC) no matter what your driving condition is? This is the core of my concern; I think I have a system that is just on the edge of its capacity. Around town the temps are locked in at 194-195, getting on the...

New cap, of course new parts dont necessarily = working... But let's see if I understand how this works... The cap raises pressure which would raise the boiling point of the liquid but what does that mean for temperature? Assuming everything else remains the same except the pressure in the...

Ok, so to recap why I'm asking: I have read countless posts where people talk about running hot and people referencing specific temps. I have read many posts with people saying their vehicle runs cool essentially never gets hotter than the thermostat rating. Perhaps this is all completely...

Maybe I'm overthinking this and its fine. It's never gone more than 1/2 gauge but once I saw how hot in degrees 1/2 gauge was I started getting worried.