Disk Brake input

I am wanting to do a front disk brake conversion on my Coronet and I am wanting to make sure its worth the $1200 its gonna cost me to do so. Logic and research says that disk brakes are better...more stopping power, reliability blah blah blah. I'd rather hear from the guys who have done it and have seen or not seen the results.

Currently, I have a 67 Coronet torqflight with a 383 4bbl from a 69 Charger. Stock intake manifold, Carter AFB carb, cam and 2.94 open rear end. Rear end will be swapped to a 3.55 sure grip within the next year and plan to upgrade intake and carb...undecided about the cam. Currently running headers into 2.5" pipes. Obviously not a track car, but it will have some balls. Car currently has power drum brakes on 16" cragars, Before I do any of the upgrades, I want to make sure the car is gonna stop when I want it to.

Is the stopping power that much more noticeable with a front disk conversion? Would it be worth cost do front and back?

Thanks.

I have a 66 Coronet and love the disk swap. I have had several drum/drum cars and thought they were ok but once you go disk you will really like the change. I know I did. I also have had both power and manual. Manual disk is still an upgrade over the power drums.
I did mine for a lot less than $1200, might want to shop around. I didn't mind getting the parts from rockauto and using used spindles.
Wayne

I just got a complete original disc brake setup, minus the master/booster, for less than 300. And it's been rebuilt. As WAYNE said, "might want to shop around".
I would say the advantages of disc brakes, outway the savings of staying with drums. Drums are great, but for control, and even braking in the "weight class" of a passenger car, you can't beat disc brakes.

What size drums are on the car now? Do you live in an area that's very hilly? I've run a lot of cars with both systems and cussed them both. If the car has 10", you might consider 11". Lot of high performance cars came with them and they worked pretty good but like any brake system, if you use low quality shoes/pads, you'll get low quality brake performance. Heck, my 66 /6 car came with 10's but the rears were only 1.5" wide. That surprised me. One of my 1/4 mile cars (10.60's) had 11's on the back and 10's on the front and it stopped very well (why do you need anything more on the front with skinny front runners?) and stopped just as well as another car that I had with 4 wheel disc that only ran 8 mph faster. Another thing I like about drum systems is you can set them up for 0 drag.

You stated what you have any talked about the motor but what about your driving habits? Is it a daily driver or just a weekend cruiser? Do you cruise or drive aggressively?

I had a 1958 W100 Power Wagon with 33" mud tires (heavy) steel 16" rims (REALLY heavy) and that truck with 4 wheel manual drum brakes that would stop on a dime and give you change... once. I had the truck in some stop and go traffic in a college town and had to do a panic stop. Because the tires are sticky and the brakes had been gone through adn where adjusted correctly, it surprised me how quickly it stopped. I then got cut off at the next intersection as someone pulled out in front of me. I had to really push on the brakes and just about hit them. It was very noticeable that they did not work as well once they built in some heat and it took maybe 1/3 longer to stop from the same speed as the last panic stop. I come to the third intersection I got cut off again (damn college kids). This time I was pulling on the steering wheel, butt off of the seat (I am 5’10” and 250 and was in college at the time), both feet on the brake pedal and the guy in front of me could see nothing but my grill. I missed him because he hit the gas. Drum brakes have bad fade when they heat up and I learned that day first hand.

My 66 Charger is a daily driver. I have 4 wheel manual drum brakes. They work good enough that my 225X60X14's are the weak link in the system. In Tulsa, traffic isn't very bad so I only have to really get on the brakes hard once every couple of days. For the drums I do have to readjust the brakes every couple of months. Not a bid deal unless you let it slide and have to hit the binders hard. If they are out of adjustment the car wants to pull to the left or right when used in the panic stop or just hard braking.

I am an aggressive driver and to compliment the rest of my car, I am in the process of upgrading to 285/35/18's all around with 13" Wilwood 6 pistons front and 12" 4 pistons rear and will still run a manual master cylinder (I like the feel of manual brakes.) I do not expect to have to adjust the disk brakes after a couple of months of driving. I also will not have the brake fade that drums have. I know these will be more brakes than I need. With my 2 and 4 year old in the car, that is what I want.

If you are wanting to run 15" rims, and drive modernly but have enough sense to know that brakes are not a place to skimp I would suggest Dr. Diff. I have never personally used him but everyone that has used his kits has been happy from what I have heard and read on multiple forums. They are not the cheap kits that you can get for 300 bucks but brakes should be the best think on your car (in my opinion). They are what will save your life and at a minimum keep you from denting your car and having to pay a couple thousand to redo body work.

Hands down Disc brakes are better....They brake better and don't get hot and fade. Easier to work on and maintain. I converted my roadrunner to disc's up front. When comparing it to my Coronet (w/ all4 power drums), the Coronet was like braking in a milk truck. I kept the 11" police/taxi HD drums in the back of the bird and don't plan on converting. I really don't think it could brake any much quicker/harder without putting it in a skid, but to some may be worth the extra coin to do so. It stops fast and was well worth the time, effort, and money. Must be a pretty snazzy set up for $1200 bucks. Good luck!

X2 on what Propwash wrote. I know years back I converted my '72 Dart (w/ a 383 in her) from manual drums to manual front disk using the OEM KH 4 piston setup and it was like night and day in the stopping department. And considering that braking has only gotten BETTER with the advent of ABS, I would consider, IMO, a swap a smart move if you plan on driving the car much. Drums are nice, Disc are better.

I did quite a bit of research on the matter as I often see a TON of posts asking the same question. And along with the questions come a TON of opinions. You can see what I was able to find out here and perhaps it will help you.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...isc-brake-conversion-(I-know-not-another-one)

Just go to reply #17 to see my info. And so you know, I ended up going with the '73 and later Dodge Dart Spindle approach but only due to the fact that I had access to a good set w/ a prop valve included at a good price. So, IMHO, all the kits are good, it is just a matter of how much you want to spend, how much looking one wants to do for parts and how much 100% Mopar you want to stay opposed to getting aftermarket stuff.

Discs all the way! I have both, and although my all drum car does ok, the discs are much nicer. Better power, more linear actuation, less fade, unaffected by weather, easier maintenance, the list goes on and on.

Also, for $1200 that must be a pretty whiz-bang setup. You might want to check into doing the C-body conversion (basically the police car brake setup). I did it on a few of mine, and love it. Very cost effective using junkyard and/or over the counter parts, 11-3/4" rotors, and it's all super beefy stuff at that!

Any way you go though, I doubt you'll regret swapping over. Good luck!

I suppose I should elaborate a bit on the cost. I looking at buy a full conversion kit from Summit which includes spindles, master cylinder, 11" vented rotors,, everything except a booster...gonna run around $600-$700. I have not the patience nor the confidence to attempt to do the work so that adds another $500 labor. One of the pitfalls of not growing up working on cars. I'm at an extreme disadvantage with absolutely loving mopars and no practical working experience. It always looks easier on paper. I will have to look into Dr Diff as I have seen the name thrown around here quite a bit. Summit is just so close to where i live.

As far as my driving habits go, I suppose I am somewhat aggressive when I am driving alone. I do plan on taking drives with my wife and 8 month old son. I live in Atlanta Ga., so to be honest I'm more worried about the drivers around me...God forbid if my wife ever decides she wants to drive the car.

From what I can tell the the drums are original to the car and I am unaware of the size. The engine is not original to the car so I am not all that interested in spending the coin to keep it that way...within reason of course. The interior is original with a front bench seat and column shift. I'm probably not the norm, but I think front bench seats are cool. I'm fine with modern aftermarket parts, especially when it comes to safety.

I appreciate all the input guys.

sorry to hear you cant put it in yourself,sucks to have to spend the extra dough.just make sure they install a proportioning valve.(either an adjustable to the rear,or a replacement for the diverter block that is in there now.)discs are way better then drums.always worth the money when it comes to safety.

Kit below would be right up your alley... Plus you would get a member discount. This stuff blots right in:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47474-PST-Disc-Brake-Conversion-including-Mopar-Style-Booster

Definitely look into the aftermarket everything is out there so much cheaper and quality too try and follow mopar actions disc o tech I believe link is on here I did and parts are out there ie Napa, AutoZone ,advanced auto ......try and build relationship with your parts guy maybe a tip here and there trust me he'll get you what you need

I put the a-body disc on my 66 and I have been very happy with how they stop. Surely you could find a mopar guy around Atlanta to help you do the swap. It's actually a pretty easy swap. I think I spent around $300 and that with all new parts except the spindles.

The kit from PST look exatly like the front brake calipers and caliper braket on my 1978 Dodge Power Wagon. The brakes on that truck with drums rear work pretty damn good.

Wow, no one here has ever had a drum system car work very well? Also, disc brakes are affected by the weather. I assume you're talking about going through some puddles etc. Water on the brakes will affect the disc system but generally to a lesser degree than drums for sure, but it will still affect them both. If you lightly apply the brakes before driving through any water, it'll help keep the pads/shoes a bit dryer plus the added heat will help dry things up quicker. I'm not talking about driving through 3 feet of water now......even tho I have done that before with a vehicle that I really didn't care much about.