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New build not starting

Sonny

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
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First start attempt on my rebuilt ‘78 440 and only firing on about 4 cylinders (only 4 warm header tubes). I kept the old dizzy and have no idea if it’s any good. I used a 360 dizzy cap and rotor as it looked identical to the ones I removed from the old 440 dizzy I’m using (don’t have the original to swap back in). Also the shaft moves up and down about an 1/8” on the top. Is that too much? Could either the play in the shaft or bad pickup on dizzy cause this? I need to get this right since cam isn’t broken in and need to limit cranking.
 
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Pull the distributor and check the gear make sure the roll pin is still there. Is it points style or electronic? If its electronic it could be the pickup. Also what kind of coil do you have.
 
BeepBeepRR said:
Pull the distributor and check the gear make sure the roll pin is still there. Is it points style or electronic? If its electronic it could be the pickup. Also what kind of coil do you have.
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I pulled the dizzy in an effort to remove the pickup and while taping the roll pin out, I broke the plastic collar in half. I recently upgraded my 1970 points system with the electronic pro form 4 pin kit and ran great on the 360 3 months ago. Same new coil to. The dizzy and pickup looks old and original. Guess I should buy a reman from Cardone?
 
How do you know your chasing an ignition issue.

I would start by confirming you have no spark. Sounds like you have spark. Faulty wires, cap, maybe rotor, or plugs may be the problem. Usually either distributor parts work or they don't, usually. Since it's a new build make sure you have compression in those holes. Could have valves hung open.
 
69L48Z27 said:
How do you know your chasing an ignition issue.

I would start by confirming you have no spark. Sounds like you have spark. Faulty wires, cap, maybe rotor, or plugs may be the problem. Usually either distributor parts work or they don't, usually. Since it's a new build make sure you have compression in those holes. Could have valves hung open.
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Thanks! I have new plug wires, new cap and rotor (for a 360), new 452 heads from aerohead racing, new coil and upgraded electronic ingnition. only old equip is the dizzy. What’s the best was to fix stuck valves? Hit them with a rubber hammer?
 
Also it looks like the dizzy cap doesn’t go all the way down around the notch “maybe” causing some of the non firing issues between the wires and rotor button?
 
69roadr said:
Don't know if I'm getting this but you say you got a 360 dizzy in a 440?
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Sorry I wasn’t clear. I have the original old 440 dizzy and added a new cap and rotor from a 360 I had laying around that appeared to be the same.
 
How do you know your chasing an ignition issue???
Are the 4 header tubes that are warm all on one bank? If so you could have a stuck float in your carburetor. This is a common problem and really acts like a non-firing issue. Especially if you're not actually checking for firing and just feeling the header tubes for warmth. Just my thoughts to what your original post was.
 
Jerry Hall said:
How do you know your chasing an ignition issue???
Are the 4 header tubes that are warm all on one bank? If so you could have a stuck float in your carburetor. This is a common problem and really acts like a non-firing issue. Especially if you're not actually checking for firing and just feeling the header tubes for warmth. Just my thoughts to what your original post was.
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Thanks. Was random on each side
 
Start at the beginning...Check each wire for continuity and that they're in the right firing order. Make sure every wire and terminal is connecting properly. And a big one.. VERIFY the engine is timed properly and the distributor is installed in the right position!
 
beanhead said:
Start at the beginning...Check each wire for continuity and that they're in the right firing order. Make sure every wire and terminal is connecting properly. And a big one.. VERIFY the engine is timed properly and the distributor is installed in the right position!
Click to expand...
I will. To set the timing, I hand turned the crank clockwise while watching the #1 (driver front) intake valve close, then turned until the timing mark was 15 degrees advanced. Then put #1 wire pointed to rotor button, tightened down dizzy bolt. That should be correct, right?
 
That should be ok, you attached the wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in CCW order on the cap right? Sorry if you did that just trying to help verify the basics first..
 
Another thing to note...many times the reluctor gap in the distributor is not perfectly even all the way around. So it needs to be set to .008 clearance with a brass feeler gauge, on the tightest point..if it's close enough on some points and too far off on others you'll fire intermittently.. (assuming you're running electronic ignition!)
 
beanhead said:
That should be ok, you attached the wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in CCW order on the cap right? Sorry if you did that just trying to help verify the basics first..
Click to expand...
Thanks no worries! No bad suggestions or questions! Yes ccw 18436572. After a few sputters and cranks, the carb smelled flooded. But it’s odd that random tubes on each side were warm. Was puffing a fuel mist out of the carb too. Never got it to “run”, just fired occasionally.
 
beanhead said:
Another thing to note...many times the reluctor gap in the distributor is not perfectly even all the way around. So it needs to be set to .008 clearance with a brass feeler gauge, on the tightest point..if it's close enough on some points and too far off on others you'll fire intermittently.. (assuming you're running electronic ignition!)
Click to expand...
Yes I am and looks like some of the teeth on the gear are worn more than others. The one I checked was .006. The electronics in the dizzy are faded, old, and look tired. Like I said, I have zero history on the dizzy so I’m ditching it.
 
Oh boy. Dumb question. My tapered spark plug seats are painted. Do they have to ground to the block????
 
Sonny said:
Oh boy. Dumb question. My tapered spark plug seats are painted. Do they have to ground to the block????
Click to expand...
As long as the threaded portion of the block is clean, they'll ground
 
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