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American Racing Headers

Toxic Orange 493

Toxic Orange 493

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Geeze for 1700 bucks you would think the flanges would be even. Look at the flanges where they hook up to the head. Not even close to being straight. I'd spend the money on TTI or Hookers.

B-Body_E-Body_Mopar_Big_Block_Headers_5000x.png
 
BeepBeepRR said:
Geeze for 1700 bucks you would think the flanges would be even. Look at the flanges where they hook up to the head. Not even close to being straight. I'd spend the money on TTI or Hookers.

View attachment 1091324
Click to expand...

I completely agree and seeing how the flanges were not even is one of the reasons I started the post. I searched the forum and didn't find any information on them.

The only reason I started to look for stainless headers is because of the wording I pasted below that TTI has in their Maintenance/Care/Warranty document. I plan to keep my car for a while and would like a set of headers that are going to last and not rust for years. The wording below is from the TTI document section on storage and possible moisture from below the car causing the headers to rust. My concern is there are plenty of other times water can and will get in between the header tubes and start rust if they really are not all coated between the tubes.

From TTI Document: Then coat the headers with WD-40 or an equivalent where the tubes are welded to the header flanges and where the tubes come in close proximity to each other (especially where the four tubes enter into the collector).These areas are prone to rusting, as the coating is unable to get between the tubes in the unexposed areas of the header.If rust occurs, it will travel into and under the coating and create a stain.
 
The headers I have on Fred the GTX are proving to be quite long-lived - and I DON'T WANT THEM TO BE.
Damn Hedmans, inherited them when I bought the car over a decade ago. They make plug changing a
freakin' chore.... I know they aren't stainless, but whatever coating they got new is proving to be durable
as hell and they've never given me any worries over leaks.
I just can't bring myself to swap them out as long as they don't leak.
Dammit...
 
$1700 is a lot of money.
The reason the flanges don't line up is because the pipes are separate.....the collector slips on to the individual pipes. They just didn't line them up for the picture.

I run an old set of Hedman Super Comps that are the same way. I actually like them because I can install the headers from the top with the engine in place after I cut the header flange.

Bry
 
That is a mighty expensive set of headers. Ceramic coated TTI's should be durable enough. I had my Hooker adjustable race headers chromed in the '70's. They held up extremely well. Maybe contact CudaChick about powder coating something a little less costly.
 
My set of ARH's, 1 7/8", arrived yesterday evening. They will be going on my Challenger. I haven't even had a chance to pull them out of the box yet.
I have an ARH full system on my other car, they are excellent. Great build quality, excellent "merge" collectors, primaries within a 1/2" of equal length. That's one of the reasons I chose to spend the extra over TTI's. If I'm spending that much money, they should at least be "close" to equal length. TTI's, as with most other headers, aren't even close.
Just a personal priority for me.
 
Apples to oranges, but my dad bought some stainless American Racing Headers for his small block. Have yet to install, but build quality looks excellent.

$1,700 is a lot of money, but you'll decide how important it is to you. They're stainless, possibly easier to install than a 1 piece header that you may have to ding-and-dent fit anyway. I also spy an O2 bung for tuning in the future if you're interested in that kind of thing. TTI can add that option for you too (for additional cost). :D

I bought a set of coated TTI's. When I put them on, I'll follow the break-in instructions to a T. Costed a lot extra for that coating! I roasted the thermal coating off some Hedmans some years ago with a warranty-voiding engine break-in. If this finish doesn't hold up on the TTI's, I probably won't buy ceramic coated headers again.

Thinking out loud: I don't like the idea of spraying WD-40 on headers. If it didn't immediately burn off first...I'd think it would just turn brown/gold on your coating anyway, and dirt would stick to it? Sounds like you'd have to do that every time you put your car away for an extended period of time.

Sorry about the side-track.
 
I've run ARH products before on some late model stuff. The quality is top notch.
Couple of fun facts on ARH. They are located in Amityville NY, very close to the house that became haunted from the movies. Also he ARH company is made up of former Kooks employees.
 
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