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1969 GTX dash restoration electrical question

sixsixvette

sixsixvette

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I am restoring a 1969 GTX, auto and AC. Currently restoring and wiring up my dash. I am using a new M&H dash harness for my heat and AC optioned car. I have read through many of the threads on the issue with overheating the firewall connection point with the positive wire fed through the connectors. Honestly, there is a little overload on hiw many opinions and recommendations are out there. So would like a little more help to make sure I do it right.

Question: Does the new M&H harness address thus issue, or is it factory stock and will have same overheating risk?? Second question: if I need to modify my setup, which of the many recommended fixes should I follow?? Not opposed to swapping the gauge from Alt to Amp, just want to do best option to avoid future issues.

Pics below of where I am currently.

20250611_164355.jpg


20250616_142604.jpg


20250616_142550.jpg


20250616_142542.jpg


20250616_142537.jpg
 
mrmolding said:
There are many, many, many threads about this. I was (still am) a newbie and asked many questions as I redid my M&H harness. I really am not the most qualified to answer since this is quite a highly debated topic. But, I've recently found this thread very interesting...
Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!
Click to expand...
So the M&H harness does not resolve the problem. That's what I figured. Did you drill out the one connector to run a solid wire from point to point?
 
The M&H harness is a duplicate of the original, so no change in wiring paths. I chose a M&H harness with a parallel path from Alt to Ammeter using an extra hole someone drilled on my firewall. I have an AC car and find i need to run my fan on Medium instead of the default low speed to keep the heat down on the blower resistor and wiring.
 
LowBikeMike said:
The M&H harness is a duplicate of the original, so no change in wiring paths. I chose a M&H harness with a parallel path from Alt to Ammeter using an extra hole someone drilled on my firewall. I have an AC car and find i need to run my fan on Medium instead of the default low speed to keep the heat down on the blower resistor and wiring.
Click to expand...
So using an ammeter gauge instead of the factory Alternator gauge?
 
Even though that gauge it is labelled alternator it is actually an ammeter.
 
steve340 said:
Even though that gauge it is labelled alternator it is actually an ammeter.
Click to expand...
So let me see if I have this right. No change to factory gauge or current M&H harness. Run a new red wire from alternator, through firewall, to the "Pos" terminal lug on back of gauge panel. What do I do with existing Red wire from the harness that connects currently on the "Pos" lug?
 
Do a search on this forum and Youtube on ammeter bypass.
A member here has posted some good videos and explanations on what/how to by-pass.
 
ALL GOOD!!! A couple of you pointed me to a few videos on the subject and it all makes sense now!! Thank for pointing me in the right direction! As much as I searched for answers, don’t know how I missed these videos.
 
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