• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Door Glass Channel seals

B Body Newbe

New Member
Local time
9:09 AM
Joined
Jun 16, 2025
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
Location
California
Hello I'm working with a 1969 GTX and need advise on door glass channel seal install or better yet who make seals that actually fit the channels (square channels half round seals) hoping someone can either guide me to some that actually fit or how to go about making these ones I bought slide in the channel correctly ? added a photo to hopefully let you see the problem I'm having comparison of old seal to new seal. Thanks in advance

IMG_1419.jpeg
 
One of the primary traits that seems to be important to proper function is that they are molded in the same curvature as the side glass. If thy aren’t they probably won’t work correctly. The next issue is rather plastic sliders that secure them to the glass. It’s best to reuse originals as reproductions are too thick generally. A member here (dadsbee) is reproducing correct ones but I think he’s about to leave for his summer home and may be out of pocket for a while. There are a number of threads on the subject you can search for. Here is one.

 
I just did those on a 69 2 days ago.
Everything has to come out, vent window assembly and door glass. Have to remove outer cat whisker, rear glass track and end seal.
Are you able to reuse original guides. Repops will need shaving down or the glass seal will bind.
I used a sharpie to mark the glass so I knew were to make the hole in the seals. First with an awl and then with a single paper punch tool, perfect size. The guide goes under the curved part of seal throw the holes you punch. Top of seal needs to be cut back about 3/4 inch from top of glass.
I used lots of silicone spray and silicone caliper pin lubricant in the SS channel. Remove both screws that secure the channel to the top of the vent. Then you can move the channel out of the vent at top to slide the glass assembly with seal attached and ready to go.
I laid the vent and glass out on a large table. The silicone spray will let you form the seal over the guide to more conform to the square channel. It’s very tricky to get it started watching both sides as it’s easy to cock it and start to bend up the seal. An extra set of hands and eyes would be a big help. I had to do it solo. Once you get the bottom of the glass guide into the top of the channel you can with some force force the the glass and seal all the way fown the channel.
Put channel back in the slot on vent and reattach screws.
Lots of patience and silicone spray and caliper pin lubricant really helps. It’s going to be tight even with the regulator . Don’t expect it to glide up and down as the seal needs to conform to the channels square shape.
I just grabbed the trimmed off section from the trash to show you how to trim the seal and punch hole location with an old guide in place

IMG_6068.jpeg


IMG_6067.jpeg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Last edited:
I just did those on a 69 2 days ago.
Everything has to come out, vent window assembly and door glass. Have to remove outer cat whisker, rear glass track and end seal.
Are you able to reuse original guides. Repops will need shaving down or the glass seal will bind.
I used a sharpie to mark the glass so I knew were to make the hole in the seals. First with an awl and then with a single paper punch tool, perfect size. The guide goes under the curved part of seal throw the holes you punch. Top of seal needs to be cut back about 3/4 inch from top of glass.
I used lots of silicone spray and silicone caliper pin lubricant in the SS channel. Remove both screws that secure the channel to the top of the vent. Then you can move the channel out of the vent at top to slide the glass assembly with seal attached and ready to go.
I laid the vent and glass out on a large table. The silicone spray will let you form the seal over the guide to more conform to the square channel. It’s very tricky to get it started watching both sides as it’s easy to cock it and start to bend up the seal. An extra set of hands and eyes would be a big help. I had to do it solo. Once you get the bottom of the glass guide into the top of the channel you can with some force force the the glass and seal all the way fown the channel.
Put channel back in the slot on vent and reattach screws.
Lots of patience and silicone spray and caliper pin lubricant really helps. It’s going to be tight even with the regulator . Don’t expect it to glide up and down as the seal needs to conform to the channels square shape.
I just grabbed the trimmed off section from the trash to show you how to trim the seal and punch hole location with an old guide in place

View attachment 1870410

View attachment 1870411

View attachment 1870421

View attachment 1870422

View attachment 1870423

View attachment 1870427
Thank you for the pictures I already have them installed I used a leather punch to make the hole and some dry graphite spray and dry silicone spray I think I may need to trim some of the plastic on the sides or as AR67 GTX said maybe the plastic inserts are to thick so I will take it all back out of the door tomorrow and look at it closer thanks again for your help.
 
One of the primary traits that seems to be important to proper function is that they are molded in the same curvature as the side glass. If thy aren’t they probably won’t work correctly. The next issue is rather plastic sliders that secure them to the glass. It’s best to reuse originals as reproductions are too thick generally. A member here (dadsbee) is reproducing correct ones but I think he’s about to leave for his summer home and may be out of pocket for a while. There are a number of threads on the subject you can search for. Here is one.

[/URL]
Thank You for your advise and yes the new ones I got from CI are straight and what's left of the old one you can see has a curve to it to match the glass I'm going to take it all back out of the door tomorrow and I. will look closer at the size of the plastic guides (compare them to the original ones) I have found in my search today that Herb's advertising says the ones they have are "redesigned with the right curve to match the glass" so I will probably call them as well maybe they not only got the curve right but have figured out that it would be beneficial to have a square felt to go into the square channel thank you for your advise
 
Spend a few hours searching and reading the members restoration section. Glass install is covered in full detail...
 
I spent well over an hour one day trying to get one window in and finally called it quits. Sent "dadsbee" a couple questions which he replied to within hours. The next day I had both in in under a half hour !! KEY points ... 1) file the sharp edges off the bottom of the channels 2) be generous with silicone spray 3) use original plastic slides - not the ones that come with the channels.

FWIW, I did not use "curved" channels - but my windows still operate just fine.
 
Lol, thanks Stan! I'm at camp burning my data plan or I'd help more.

Members section, 7up machine / Superbird restoration. Covers in full doing door glass, as does my Superbee thread about mid 2019
 
You will find very detailed information here:


As stated above, go to about mind 2019.

And as an added bonus, dadsbee has recently reproduced exact copies of those plastic slides.

And for future reference you would be very hard pressed to find better b-body assembly info anywhere !! Bookmark that thread !!
 
Maybe someone can check my memory but wasn’t one source for reasonable quality, curved window mylar slides, Mega Parts?
 
Thank You everyone for the advise and pointers I'll be back at it today and also going to spend some time reseaching these suggested threads Thanks again
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top